Blue Z Reef

Check these out:

http://www.4fishies.com/Reef-Brite-Twin-Arc-Metal-Halide-Lamp-175w-Mogul.html?utm_source=google-shopping&utm_medium=organic

Just have your timer shut them down for 10 mins mid day and back on and you go from 10k to 20k, best of both worlds

Thanks for the heads up Jeff, we need this kind of input for the admin todo list. Will add it to that list and see what can be done.

TY sir! Found it a bit odd we didn't have it. Check out R2R mobile site for examples.

I've tried tapatalk a few times, just personally prefer the web interface myself. Also, I'm sure im not the only one who isn't using it or won't in the future. Just keeping things moving forward to glory

Yikes man, that sucks! The Beast was...to beastly LOL

Hope you get er back in service soon!

Thus far I've had 2 times when my skimmer went ape and overflowed my 5 gallon skimmate collector. Dumped roughly 5-10 gals under the stand. Def not fun but now Archon keeps an eye on that for me

I use the mobile site on my iPhone through Safari. I was wondering if there was any way to add page numbers or at least a "last" page button to threads? It's a bit of a pain on threads with lots of pages to hit next a ton while waiting for each page to load. Thanks

We have tomorrow also right? Otherwise I can do a blue iphone pic tonight....

They can be submitted from the 13th-27th every month. 7 days on either side of the 20th

If you want to be successful, do your reading, there is tons of info out there.

My advice and something I did when doing some research is to go through the "tank of the month" threads on R2R or reefkeeping.com. There is a reason most have achieved this and as you read you will see some commonalities between tanks. Ultimately everyone has a slightly different approach but the fundamentals are the same. Find what works and what you can do with your budget/space/time constraints and develop a plan from there. Good luck!

Make a PVC overflow silencer. Lots of DIY threads online, just google it. There are also pre made ones like the "Maggie muffler" you can get off eBay and such.

This car doesn't make sense from an engineering standpoint, thus until I see one get filled up and drive I wouldn't believe it. I don't know if you guys remember back in the late 90s early 2000s someone coming out with a water powered car that you could "fill up with your garden hose". Needless to say that never came out. You can never get more energy out than you put in (first law of Thermodynamics), so the saltwater can't just convert itself to electrical energy without something like electrolysis separating out the hydrogen, which in tern takes energy to do. I'll be surprised if this car goes anywhere.

Holy mess that elegance is epic! Great stuff Jeff!

My oc clown doesn't like red fish. But I've had a flamehawk for several years now and the clown chases him away from the paly's he hosts but other than that the flamehawk holds his own. I also had a bluespot jawfish, recently lost him, and was fine with the flamehawk. The only one that showed aggression to the jawfish was the sailfin.

 

Any of the wrasses are jumpers, as well as jawfish. Make sure your tank is well covered with fine mesh if you add either.

Had almost the exact thing happen. I just felt bad for the flame because he would swim toward the clowns hosting area in the middle, get chased away to the other side. Return later, same thing. Always seemed to be getting chased from the center where the clowns were. No one died, just don't like to see the stress is all. Clowns also chased my red tail tamarin wrasses tail...he's a little stinker.

Def cover your top or cover all outlets on the hood. Lost a wrasse or two from them somehow finding a 3x3" vent hole in my hood to kamikaze out of :(

There's something about my FP Clowns and red fish. Like a bull lol. My older clown is like 7 years old so I leave the old geezer bee.

Yikes, that seems fast, how long did you run the 5500? They have a 1-2 year warranty, you sending it in? Kinda scared since I'm running the same one :O

+1 on the leopard wrasses.

 

I love my flame hawkfish. Bright red with a black stripe. Huge personality. A flame hawkfish would be fine in a 75.

I would avoid flame Hawks with clowns, mine were mortal enemies.

Lots of cool wrasse options out there, that's what I'd suggest.

If you like coding, play with electronic, and save lots of $$$... Do a DIY controller with audrino mega. Total cost less than $200 and building it is just as entertaining as the reef tank itself.

 

Here are a small list of features I programmed:

-Skimmer pump turn off if sump level increased by 0.5" and restart when sump level is within.

-Skimmer pump off for 3hrs if skimmate rate is high.

-skimmer pump off if skimmate is full

-wave pump intensity sync to moon phase

-wave pump oscillation frequency randomized 4 times per day with auto slight variation to prevent splash out.

-LED control for sunrise, peak, cloud cover, sunset, moon phase.

-pH controlled kalk ATO

-Temp controlled heater and fan

-Control auto feeder 3x daily and pause return pump 10min

-SMS warnings and log all data every 10min

-upon power restored from outage.. retrieve time from internet and auto recover operation.

I saw your post on FB, mad props to you! Wish I remembered programming better :(

Didn't you have an App functioning too?

Jebao DC6000 would be perfect for your system. Those ecoplus pumps are pretty loud, a DC pump will be basically silent.

Yes, they are well worth the investment!

From what I've seen, the Apex is a better choice. I have a Digital Aquatics Archon and have mixed feelings about it. For a basic cheap controller the Reef Keeper Lite is a great choice. Apex just has nicer graphs and software features than the archon does (which is slowly developing as it goes). Both can be tricky to setup initially but lots of people here can help.

nassarius snails do a good job on the sand. Maybe get a sand sifting star also.

Not at all, I don't sell fish ever from my system. Just saying I'd rather not remove all the fish and go through the QT process when they recover just fine with feeding well. I haven't lost any to it yet (fingers crossed, knock on wood).

Jeremy, you're the jerry riggin captain LOL!

Maybe the OP should try a kalk reactor. The 2 little fishes one is pretty cheap. Put your AL before it and shouldn't have a clog issue.

When I ran Kalk with ALs I would have like 4 that I swapped around and cleaned.

But if you choose to ignore it, and you sell, or trade anything from your system to others, please tell them that you have ich in your system. It can be transferred on anything wet, fish, frags, inverts.

My tang had ick when I got him, lasted a day or two and went away. None of my other 3 tangs got it. Feeding regularly was the only treatment. I haven't seen a flare up in the 2 years he's been in my tank. I agree that the stress is more than I would put the fish through to remove and QT. I do tell people to dip frags, but that really should be done regardless of where they come from.

Cal and Alk look fine but your Mag is low, I'd address that and it will help the others stabilize. 50 gal is pretty small, I'd say dosing is going to be more cost effective for you than a Ca reactor. Good luck, sucks when this happens but we all pull through! Sounds like you are staying on top of it with water changes though.

I think bare bottom is easier to prevent detritus buildup. I know when I had a remote fuge and finally removed it there was lots of detritus at the bottom (even with a filter sock and skimmer before it). If you have the chaeto tumble it avoids this and grows the ball 360 degrees around. I don't personally tumble mine but don't keep sand either to avoid any buildup. As said, both methods work.

Pods can be bought or you can get some cheato from the share thread from someone who has them already. Also some keep "pod condos" that can be transferred to others tanks to seed them with pods.

Cadlights is making some sweet aquariums these days!

For the light, have you looked at the AI Prime? I think you would be happier overall with all the cool features. They only run $200. A few people are running them on here recently.

How do you manually flush? Just run into sink or something prior to using?

I have a valve before my DI resin that I open and the water goes into the waste line, thus not exhausting my resin unnecessarily. When I first turn on my unit the membrane output TDS starts out at like 8 or 10, then after 5-10 minutes of flushing we are down to 1-2. I understand what you mean about flushing the line, that's why as many have said I'd just skip the hassle and fill a reservoir to top off from.

I am in the same boat as Matty, 5 gal top of reservoir to avoid the potential disaster. I have a manual flush that I use before starting to fill my large reservoir, I know they make auto flush valves that may help out in your situation.