titus'reef

How do you like those lights? How are the corals doing? I can’t  wait to get my hands on a tank and get some sticks as well.

I have a 40 breeder turned into a sump. I don’t know if you’re interested it that.

Hello reefers, 

I have a few things to sell before I get back into reefing again

IM fusion Nuvo 40 - SOLD 

Still have a few things to sell and more to come

40 gallon breeder turned into a sump - $55

Tunze 9004 Skimmer -  $100

CustomCaddy With new sponges - $30 

2 x SpinStream Flow Nozzle -  $15 ea

150W aqueous heater - $10

 

Sorry I don’t know how to put up the pictures from my iPhone so they are visible.

IMG_5888.HEIC IMG_5886.HEIC IMG_5879.HEIC

I have a Tunze Comline 9004. Just cleaned up and it works like a charm. I used it on IM nuvo40.

Looking great Dan. Once this virus run is over I’m looking to get back into it too. 

What don't you like about the overflow?

Any recent pictures?

 

 

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I was referring to the overflow I designed.

If you don't plan to add a dump later on, than the all in one tank is the way to go.

 

 

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bumping up a slightly old thread haha. How do you like your nuvo 40? I am considering getting either a 40 or a 20. Like the idea of having the extra water volume and real-estate. Anyways what are your thoughts on the 40?

I like the glass. It doesn't scratch as easy and it is really clear. Modern look and the perfect size for a nano. The more water volume the better so if you can get a glass tank with a different overflow system do it.Mine works great but still... It's not ideal.

Thanks for the bump.

 

 

 

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Hi,

 

Any updates on adding the remote sump? 

 

Cheers,

 

Yes, I finished the sump and added it to the tank with no problems. The system works very nice and it is dead quite. In fact all I can hear is the refrigerator .

 

 I will add pictures when I can as I am extremely busy with my job at this point. 

So like I said in the previous post I will add a sump on the other side of the wall.

I was working on a dead silent diy pvc overflow, I would say fail proof since I am adding a aqua-lifter and a second typical overflow to handle the extra water.

 

I made the main overflow out of 1" pvc. The modifications I have done to the typical diy overflow makes it completely silent.

Imagine a herbie overflow but this one is hanging on the back instead of the bottom.

I raised the T to where I wanted my water level to be when pump is off. Than I removed the U that comes to the surface to skimm the surface. That's not needed because the back chamber acts as a surface skimmer already.

Instead of letting the air get sucked in I added a 5/8 tube that will start a full siphon when the return pump starts and reaches the 5/8 tube. The tube is small enough to be able to break the full siphon when power goes out or for maintenance, however the flow will start again because the small 5/8 tube is short enough and let's air in when pump goes off.

I also have another overflow for the extra water and to handle the flow in case the full siphon stops working for any reason.

Here is a photo with the idea spread on paper. And a video with my testing.

The return pump is quite one 4000. It can push 10 feet and max flow is 1000+ gph

I dialed the pump to 50% because I won't need more flow that 500gph.

I also tested the pump on maximum and I opened the valve of the main overflow to max and the pump couldn't keep up.

I hope I am not too confusing.

https://vimeo.com/151217935

 

 

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I am planning to add a sump on the other side of the wall, in the garage, and use it as a frag thank / refugium, More live rock, larger skimmer and reactors.

 

I think a 40 gallon breeder would do it.

For the overflow I am currently testing a diy pvc overflow and it works.

Of course I will have float switches and aqua lifter sucking the air that can accumulate with time in the tube and stop the siphon.

I will post as I do it. But for now it will be the planning, than the doing.

 

 

 

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Nice looking tank man!

Thanks. I will come with some updates next year.

 

 

 

 

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I have a system you might be interested in,  Pm me.

everything you need including bleached rock,stand canopy, 50gal acrylic tank with bean animal overflow, sump, led light, SRO 2000 skimmer, MP40w, etc, 

got anything left for me? i want 2 fire shrimp and 2 cleaner shrimp

Here is a little update:

I got two BRS dozer pumps for two part dozing. For the dozing containers, I got two 1500ml clear containers from tap plastics. They drilled the lids for me to be able to run the float switch wire and acrylic tube. I also got some square acrylic and made the float switch holder. This way I can get notified if I'm running low on solution or if something goes wrong with this system.

I am now using the dozers for the frag tank.

I also added a float switch to the ato tank to notify me when I have 2 days left of rodi water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I just picked up a bunch of frags from Danik and let me tell you... Unbelievable!!! Thanks a lot for all the frags and rock and water for my brand new frag tank!

 

 

 

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I was taken by surprise! and not quite ready with the tank for about 20 frags or so but I think I will give it a try. PM sent 

Nice work! Controllers are so much fun :-) Enjoy

Thank you!

It took me a while to figure out how to set it up. I am still dealing with codes for the jebao and other things like alarms.

 

 

 

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Nice work there on the hook up!

 

I keep saying no controller but I just know that I will get one someday

Thanks!

I needed to hide the cables somehow, and at the same time be accessible.

 

 

 

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I got a new toy as a gift.

Neptune system w/ph lab grade, breakout box and the jebao to apex connection.

 

I love this thing. I set it up after doing a lot of research.

 

 

I reorganized everything with the new toys.

 

I put hinges on the panel so I can move it and hide all the cables behind it along with the main power strip for things that don't need control.

 

 

 

 

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New Tank Setup

 

When a new reef tank is first set up and after the dust settles it is nice and clean and orderly. This begins to change almost immediately whether you can see it or not. Within the first 3 days Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate levels all start to rise in your water. This is the beginning of the tank cycle process. No worries! Those high levels of Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate will come down in 2 to 5 weeks depending on your system. It is extremely important not to over stock your tank during this period!

 

Diatom Algae Outbreak

 

Other than the initial rise of chemicals in the tank, the first significant changes are usually an outbreak of diatom algae. Diatom algae starts off as small brown spots on glass, live and base rock and eventually can cover almost everything in the tank. When I set up my first tank I was very worried that I was going to loose my nice pink and purple live rock during this phase. Fortunately diatoms only last about 2 to 3 weeks and it doesn't harm live rock or the creatures that came with it! Diatoms are actually a good sign because it means your tank is near the end of the cycle period. To combat the unsightly diatoms a clean up crew can help to restore some beauty back to your tank. During this time period nitrogen gas bubbles will also form in your sand bed and begin to rise up in your tank. At times it may look like a snow storm in reverse! No worries this is also a normal step in your tank's evolution.

 

Other Algae Outbreaks

 

Your diatoms have finally cleared up and your clean up crew has cleaned off much of your tank. Unfortunately, you aren't done yet! Your tank may go through as many as 5 or more different types of algae outbreaks within the first 2 months, some good and some bad! One type of algae you may encounter is green hair algae. If this starts to appear it can be helpful to have a few known algae eating fish. Yellow Tangs and Pygmy Cherub Angels are both good algae eaters that can help keep your tank much cleaner! Other than Green Hair Algae here are some of the other algae that you can expect. You will probably see a green almost powder like algae growing on your glass. This grows fast and can be hard to keep ahead of until your tank becomes stable (which can take several months) and your water cleans up for good. An algae magnet can be helpful to clean this off. It is also a possibility that algae may begin growing on your sand. Usually Red Cyanobacteria is the one that will show up in your sand. Increased circulation and frequent water changes after the tank has completed cycling can help get rid of Cyano problems. If you add a sand sifter to your tank like a Watchman Diamond Goby they can also assist in avoiding this problem. All tanks are a little different. You may get some of these types of algae or even more. The key is not to panic and to know as much about them as you possibly can! Not all types of algae are bad!

 

Coralline Algae (the good kind)

 

Not all types of algae are bad! As a matter of fact most reef aquarists go out of their way to grow Coralline Algae. Coralline algae is the very colorful stuff that comes on live rock when you buy it at the aquarium store. It can vary in color including, orange, purple, green, pink, red and maroon. It normally starts to grow in little patches in the corners of the tank glass, on filters and and power heads, then it will start growing on the base rock. You should begin to aide the process with use of supplements like calcium buffers and other supplements. This will also start preparing your tank with what corals will need to grow. The growth of coralline algae in a tank is a good sign that the tank is beginning to mature and it getting close to being ready to accept corals.

 

Adding Corals

 

After your reef tank has been setup for approximately 4 months and the water conditions are consistently stable, it is usually safe to start adding corals. Some tanks will mature more quickly and corals can be introduced a little it sooner, but I always try to error on the side of caution. Coral is a living, breathing organism. If you try to add coral to a tank that is not ready most of the time the coral will die! Your tank is ready for corals when your ammonia, nitrite & nitrate levels have dropped and consistently stay down for at least a month to a month in a half. I also recommend that you aim (through the use of supplements an buffers) to get your PH is in the 8.0-8.3 range, your alkalinity is in the 8-12dkh range and to get your calcium is in the 375-450ppm range. This will aid in the development of the corals you add. When adding corals (like fish) start slow and inexpensively! Add hearty corals (see below) and make sure what you are adding can survive and thrive before adding your next coral. Do your research on lighting, additives and compatibility with fish before you start. The more you learn about your new hobby the more successful you will be!

 

 

 

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Diatoms. Nothing to worry about. I found this for you. I could not share the link but i did copy it.

 

 

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My Tunze 9004 Skimmer cup. This thing is a monster.

 

 

 

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I was gone for a weekend and I let my brother to keep an eye on the tank. Well... he filled the sump with fresh water instead of the ato tank. I lost a lot of sps that time.

 

 

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Here isn't 40 Bonsai. Second attempt. Last time I had Dino's, so it didn't work out.

 

 

 

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What are you going to do if they come back? I would add a UV sterilizer to your system to make this less likely.

most likely...... I don't know. Let's hope for the best this time. I ran vinegar throughout the whole system and that really cleaned everything brand new.

 

 

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