wobble

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Getting out of hobby. I am just not into it anymore and the tank is getting neglected. Selling everything for $250. I don't have time for it anymore and just want it gone. 75 gallon glass tank with wood stand and hood 4 x 54W T5 HO lighting w/icecap reflectors (2) K4 powerheads 20L sump w/refugium Modded Octopus NW150 skimmer OceanRunner OR2500 return pump 80-100 pounds of LR (2) RBTA's Encrusting gorgonian (lack of attention has allowed it to grow out of control) Birdsnest Misc. hermits, snails, and emeralds Maroon Clown Brazilian Yellow Spotted Banana Dwarf Morray Eel (purchased from Live Aquaria approx 5 years ago) Klein Butterfly Also just opened a bucket of Red Sea Coral Pro salt that will be included. Refractometer and other misc. stuff will go with it as well, if wanted.

grassi, did you still want to sell me one of them?

That's kinda what I thought. Ya, I've got a 29g mixed reef I could put him in until he grows bigger. It would be safe there. (maroon clown is in my 75g mixed reef)

Hmmm. Think such a small one would be ok with a 3" maroon clown?

That would be great! Please let me know. I can pick it up any time. How big is it and how much do you want for it? (PM me if you'd like)

Looking for a RBTA for my maroon clown. Vancouver/Portland area preferred.

Thank you. That makes me feel alot better. I really like the little guy.

Just fed them and he ate, but not much, and not as eagerly as he usually does. Hopefully the little guy pulls through.

Just tested water. Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 0 Calcium: 440 KH: 9 (buffered daily with baking soda) SG: 1.024 (calibrated last week with Pinpoint Salinity Monitor 53.0mS Calibration Fluid)

My maroon clown and kole tang have been getting into it more and more lately. Both seem to have slight battle wounds. Today I noticed the right eye on my maroon clown is a tad puffy and he has some small white dots around his head. Can't tell if it's just sand or something else. All fish are acting and eating normally. Well, accept the increased aggression as they are getting bigger. Display is 75g w/90 lbs LR which has been set up for 3-4 years. 20g sump, fuge w/chaeto, NW150 modded skimmer, filter sock changed 1-2 times/week Fish: Yellow tang, kole tang, maroon clown, yellow wrasse, 3 blue damsels, striped blenny, and dwarf banana moray eel. Coral: Some LPS Interts: Snails, hermits, 4" sally lightfoot crab, rose anemone, green anomene Water parameters looked good last weekend when I did water change. Going to test water now. Recent changes: - Switched from RC to Kent salt a month ago. Have been doing 20% weekly water changes since then. Before I was doing 20% every two weeks. - All fish/inverts have been in there for a year accept the striped blenny and sally lightfoot (was 2" then) was added two months ago. - Emerald crab found dead a month ago and another one last weekend. Stomach was eaten out so I figured my eel had finally got to it. Should I leave the clown be, or should I go through the hassle of removing the LR and move him to a hospital tank for treatment? Here are the best pics I could get. I'll try to get better ones. One of the clown and one of the kole.

All three brands share the same exact hardware in many cases. Really depends on the model number we are talking about. The main differences lie in the firmware and antenna design. I agree regarding the Cisco and their superior business-line products. However, IME their home-line products do not share this level of excellence. I used to like the Lynksys, but since Cisco bought them, they introduced their typical proprietary tactics. For example, most current Linksys routers will not support a PPTP connection to a work place. That probably won't be an issue for most, but for some it would be. They also have internal antennas, which have terrible range and suffer from crosstalk. Have you ever tried DD-WRT? I found it to be a superior fimrware and use that instead of OEM firmware on my routers. It's very customizable and has tons of features. I also find it more stable in most cases. reef165, I agree with CA2OR and Twitterbait. That Netgear will work out great for your needs. And don't mind us, we're just talking technical stuff. Geek speak, as my friends call it. (laugh)

Agreed. Every I.T. guy I know (including me) thinks their way is the best, and only way. Darn I.T. guys. (laugh)

Nor do I. Just trying to help.

While all that is true, just setting encryption to WPA2-EAS will keep everyone out anyway. Even the most computer savvy will not get in. IMO, there is no reason for the additional overhead using MAC address filtering when it does little for security. The OP said he didn't understand any of this, so I thought the simplest solution would be most appropriate. Not only is it the simplest, it's also the most secure, as WPA2-AES has not yet been cracked. That's true as well. Someone would need to know what they are doing to crack WEP. But why would someone choose WEP over WPA2, when WEP is less secure? The only reason I can see to choose WEP over WPA2 is for use with legacy clients. He wants to use it for his Wii, which is compatible with WPA2.

Unfortunately, turning off broadcasting and/or enabling MAC address filtering doesn't do much for security. Freely available tools will show all broadcasted networks as well as broadcasted networks. MAC address spoofing is also very easy done. The manufacturers of these routers do a very good job of helping even the most novice computer person secure their network. My advice would be to use the cd that comes with the router. It will walk you through step by step how to secure your network. Enable WPA2-AES and you will be secure. Also be sure to put a good password on the router.

Where are you located?

I also have one laying around. I had a guy at work build it for me out of plastic (professional plastic welder) for under my 55g and ended up getting rid of my 55g, so I never used it. Has a chamber for return pump, fuge, and skimmer.

Are you trying to access a router or switch? I don't think D-Link made a 16 port router. If you are trying to access the router, go on a PC that has an active Internet connection. Press the start button, click "run", type "cmd" (wouthout quotes) and press enter. Then type "ipconfig" (without quotes) and press enter. It should list your IP configuration. The default gateway listed is the IP address of your router. HTH

Without knowing the details of your network topology it's difficult to say. My first guess would be that the old Gateway is the master browser on your network, which is why network issues happen when that computer is offline.

Looks like it may be a lawnmower blenny. I had one awhile back. It had a great personality. They are algae eaters.

I've used that sand in the past and didn't have positive results. Diatom algae proved to be uncontrollable and tank was a constant dust storm. I went through so many impeller shafts I lost count. If a fish did even the slightest amount of digging, the tank looked like a milky white cloud and took quite some time to clear up. I wanted white sand, but brown diatoms constantly covered the surface of the sand. I ended up finally taking it out. If you've already put it in your tank, see how it goes. Perhaps you will have better results than I did. Every tank is different. Another inexpensive options would be pool filter sand. It is available for around $10 - $15 for a 50 lb bag and comes in a variety of colors. I switched to that and my diatom algae problem went away. It also has slightly larger grain size, so it won't be blown around the tank as easily as the Home Depot white sand. Any local spa store carries it.

Rick, I was faced with a similar dilemna when I purchased my eel. I needed to put eggcrate on the lid, but didn't want to lose light. I found a way to seal the lid without putting eggcrate below the lights. Here's what I ended up doing: (Although this will obviously only work with a canopy)

I think you meant Vista sp2.