blown65

So I need some sort of a controller to run my fans for my cabinet. Right now they will cool the tank too much if on 24/7, but it creeps up when I turn them off with the lights. I need something to control it better by water temp like a chiller controller. So whats a good priced controller to do this? Seems like it should be something fairly simple, but most are rated for chiller loads, and I really dont need that. If I gotta spend the extra bucks, I'd rather have something that does more than temp control, maybe PH monitor etc etc?

Wow, your even more pathetic than me. LOL

X2. So stupid but whatever.

Ya, was doing all those things. He is a goner this morning.

Still kinda going thru a little cycle, but seems to be pretty close to done with that. Got kinda ugly for a bit. One coral probably wont make it, but the rest are starting to get some coloring back now. My Naso tang I just bought a week ago or so is probably on his last legs. No matter what I feed he really seems uninterested in it. Kinda eats a little bit of brine shrimp but its very limited and definitely not enough to keep him going. The rest of the fish have been loving it though since they get fed more often than usual.

lame. Should go by time also. Ive been a member there since 2004, but have only 28 posts. I just dont post much anywhere, 212 here mostly because its more locals. Thats over 3 yrs time though.

One bump then off the RC or ebay.

7 in my 300. I like them all, but would love a sohal tang but kinda worried about it getting too aggressive. Also would like a snowflake eel again.

lol, sorry. Yes, it should of read aren't.

I'm not 100% sure but I would think you would have some losses thru a transformer. It creates heat, and that takes energy to do so.

Only thing I'd add is checking top off water for phosphates. Other than that I'd look at the foods and making sure the ones you are using are packed full of phosphates.

R/Os and water high in hardness and iron really shortens the life of the membranes. Do you know how high in gpg the water is? Usually we shoot for 10 gpg or less in hardness. (or 171ppm) Quite a few of the water treatment stores will test your hardness and iron for free.

Which Reeflo pump is it? Some of the low pressure ones will not do much head pressure, so you really should think about oversizing the plumbing to get the most out of it. Best way is size your plumbing with a chart. Here is an online friction loss chart showing pipe and fitting losses. http://www.plumbingsupply.com/flowchart.html

1200 gph is 20 gpm. 1/2", 3/4" and 1" are really on the small side for that flow rate without having lots of head loss. Sure you can run it, but your really shooting yourself in the foot by reducing flow. Run a larger line and then reduce where it goes into the tank and watch how much flow you gain. Ill scan some flow charts tomorrow so you guys can see TDH friction losses of various size piping. 20gpm thru 1" is ok if your runs are very short. I'm not completely sure how motor loading goes on magdrive pumps, but centrifigal style pumps will pull a higher amp load on higher flow rates, if you restrict the pump with small tubing it would lower the amperage draw. Put a amp meter or kw meter on your pump and the watch what happens when you run the pump in your sump with no hose attached.

I might try a 14k Phoenix for fun myself also. I have some Reeflux 12ks and they are pretty dim, also some pretty new 20k Icecap and still pretty dim. My EVC 10ks are really bright in comparison but lack the blue output completely. Maybe a slight yellow to them but very little, mostly just a bright white light. Going by the tests I've read the PAR of the EVC 10k and the Phoenix 14k is fairly close, Phoenix being slightly lower.

Those are not self priming pumps, so you are correct. Closed loop or the water would have to be above the impeller of the pump. You could get creative and make it work but man, it would be a PITA if the power goes out and your risk burning the seal up with it running dry. What little gains you would get would be avoided by running larger plumbing. lol

Yup, thats about the only reason I see doing it is for saving room. Another thing I forgot about is those motors are TEFC motors, if you stand it on the motor end, you will over heat the motor since it cant get the air flow it needs. (fan is on that end) I would still do a double 45 or over size the plumbing.

If it has dual bearings it should be fine. The sleeve style motors sometimes dont like being mounted vertical though. Way back, jet pumps for domestic wells mounted vertical over the well, using standard motors, nothing special. I still see those pumps every now and then. Sure they probably had the bearings replaced, but its pretty inexpensive to do. The GPH/Pressure the pump does will have zero bearing on the bearing life IMO. You would run into that on stage pumps that develop up thrust like a submersible pump in a well does. Those reeflo pumps do not like much head pressure against them, they are mostly low 1750 rpm pumps except the high pressure versions. Personally I would just oversize the plumbing on them or use double 45's to make your turns. The other thing to consider is if your standing this pump on its motor instead, that would be a bad idea IMO also, you have a seal start leaking its going directly into the motor.

Thanks for the link.

2 are the same brand (Coralife) the other I'll have to look when I get home. Anyhow, they are all 3 the same, just with different manufacturer name stamped and one a different color. All run great, one we put new bearings in it at our shop. We are a pump business so its my line of work and repair hundreds of pumps a yr, no big deal. I believe this is the one in yellow. The other two are Coralife pumps. http://www.marinedepot.com/Pan_World_200PS_Magnetic_Water_Pump_1000_to_2000_Gallons_Per_Hour_External_Water_Pumps-Pan_World-JW1123-FIWPEPOT-JW1173-vi.html They run right about 300+shipping new. Ill let them go for 160.00 each shipped and paypal'd. I will also warranty any bearing issues on any of the three for a year on me. You will have to ship it back but thats about the best I can do. Images of the pumps on my tank now.

What brand of carbon are you running. I know some will leach phosphates, especially those for the residential water treatment trade. If you get a test kit for phosphates I would definitely test carbon, even post carbon on R/O filters leach it. Its why I take mine off straight off the membrane. However with you running DI thats kinda not an issue. Most of the color indicating phosphate tests don't really go low enough IMO. By the time they read 0, you could be still too high, unless there is a kit I dont know about. (been quite some time since Ive shopped for them) The colormeter ones are really the way to go, but expensive.

If you decide to sell your 24-105 let me know, my sister is looking for a lens.

Maybe next week I'll come out and do that for ya if your not busy too. I agree on what you posted BTW, my larger view of a zero waste is someone on city water with quite a lot of topoff water going on. 3-1 is about where you will be on waste to ro water. My tank right now evaps about 3-4 gallons a day, so thats 12 down the drain. I know some places, water isn't exactly cheap, and I'm sure summer time it will be more like 15-20 gallons a day down the drain. Since I'm on a well, I could care less so it goes right out to my field, but if I was in the city I would definitely use a zero waste system.