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parvo99

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Posts posted by parvo99

  1. Are the ppm numbers you posted correct?  If your di is before your RO membrane, it doesn’t make sense that it’s only 2 out of the di but goes up to 7 out of the RO, unless there’s something in the RO membrane that needs to be flushed out, or you took the RO reading after the DI was exhausted. Also, if you just replaced the RO membrane as well, I would double check that it’s installed the right way, and seated properly. Even without the DI, you should only be reading maximum 1 or 2 ppm

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  2. I meant, in the picture it looks like he has the di right after the carbon. The RO membrane should be right after the carbon, and the DI should be after the RO membrane. Although, his tds numbers would indicate that the filters are in the correct order. The biggest issue I see is that his 23ppm Tap is only down to 7ppm after the RO. It should be near 0

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  3. Ok, so just to be clear, it should go sediment, carbon, RO, DI. The RO should drop your TDS down to almost 0 before going through the DI as the last step, otherwise you’re going to fly through the DI. Looking at your picture, it should be 2 sediment and a carbon, or 1 sediment and 2 carbon. The DI should be in a separate canister after going through the RO membrane

    2F2F0E18-D37C-4BAD-A62C-FEECF5BC60B1.jpeg

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  4. What water supply is it connected to?  If it’s a dedicated water line, orange sediment filter could be excess rust that flushed off the pipes with the extra water flow when refilling the canisters?  The tds on your RO seems high compared to your tap. That’s only a 70% rejection rate. And it’s hard to tell from the picture, but is your di connected after the carbon, or after the RO membrane?  It should be connected after the RO membrane

  5. As far as the benefits go, a lot of people see it as a sign of a stable growing tank , but other than making the rock prettier, I would think the whole point of “live rock” would be diminished if it was completely covered in coraline. It would defeat the purpose of reef rock being porous for bacterial colonization. And, once it starts growing, don’t get lazy with keeping your glass clean. Once it takes hold, magnetic algae scrapers won’t work. As you can see, I gave up on my side panes 😅

  6. 5 hours ago, householdofpayne said:

    So I moved where my RODI unit was located and now I am getting 60psi at the inlet. The production has increased but still quite a bit of waste. Would you still recommend getting a fast flush, or maybe a 2nd DI membrane? My next thing I would like to set up is a float switch for my storage container. I'm having trouble finding the solenoid that stops the waste water as well could you point me in the direction in what I would need for that? Is there any cons to keeping RO water heated? Was thinking this would make it faster to mix water in case of an emergency, but didn't know if it increased chance of bacteria or something. 

    The flow restrictor is required for your RO to work properly. Looking at the pictures, it looks like you hooked it up incorrectly.  If I’m not mistaken the clear line coming out of the RO canister is your waste line.  Not sure where you got the clear tubing, but there should have been yellow (waste line) and black (inlet line from water source).  On your model, the flow restrictor is inside the yellow tubing. It looks like you used the yellow tubing as the inlet instead of the waste line.  

    There should have been a plastic piece like this stuck inside one end of the yellow tubing

     

    https://www.purewaterproducts.com/img/fr100.jpg

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