Plumbing question

[Nicknjo]

 

First off thanks everyone for the warm welcome and the help so far. I have another question as to what y'all would do. My new 140 has 2 2" holes drilled in the bottom supposedly for a under gravel filter that was used in its previous life. When I bought the tank i was just gonna plug them both with bulk heads and not worry about them. Someone later suggested using the two holes in a closed loop for added tank flow. Thought maybe I could add a couple reactors to the loop to make good use of it if I do it. My question is cap em off or run a closed loop. Tank is a single overflow 1" single return as it sits running to and fro the sump.

 

TIA!!!

 

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[pdxmonkeyboy]

I would most definately take advantage of a closer loop. The fell out of favor when all the new wave makers hit the market but now that we have all these low energy DC pumps on the market they make even more sense.

I want prattle on about how much better they are than wave makers, but I will say this... no maintenance!! None, zero. No soaking, no scrubbing, no nothing.

Anyways, if they are truly 2" wide holes then I would buy two 1" schedule 80 bulkheads. You are also going to need a other hole in the back of your tank for an inlet. Probably 1" or 1.5" bulkhead.

You can get a jebao DCQ pump that moves 2600 gph, and has a pulsing wave function for $130 on Amazon.

Your also going to want to redo that drain on the tank. One pipe is going to be REALLY noisy.

Cheers

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[Nicknjo]

I would most definately take advantage of a closer loop. The fell out of favor when all the new wave makers hit the market but now that we have all these low energy DC pumps on the market they make even more sense.

I want prattle on about how much better they are than wave makers, but I will say this... no maintenance!! None, zero. No soaking, no scrubbing, no nothing.

Anyways, if they are truly 2" wide holes then I would buy two 1" schedule 80 bulkheads. You are also going to need a other hole in the back of your tank for an inlet. Probably 1" or 1.5" bulkhead.

You can get a jebao DCQ pump that moves 2600 gph, and has a pulsing wave function for $130 on Amazon.

Your also going to want to redo that drain on the tank. One pipe is going to be REALLY noisy.

Cheers

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How would you change the overflow?

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[Blue Z Reef]

Not sure the point of the other chamber on the overflow is but ideally you want one full siphon overflow and one emergency drain. Look up “Herbie Overflow” for more details. Also get a GATE valve for the full siphon or you will go crazy trying to dial it and not be successful probably.

 

with a closed loop you can get more flow around in areas you probably wouldn’t with wavemakers (like under rock structures and such). I would just weigh if it’s worth your money vs maybe buying another wavemaker or better one. I have two Gyre XF350s on my 210 right now and the flow is pretty bonkers 

[Blue Z Reef]

Decent write up on drain types

 

https://blog.marinedepot.com/education-center/charts-diagrams/durso-herbie-bean-animal-overflow

 

[Nicknjo]

Not sure the point of the other chamber on the overflow is but ideally you want one full siphon overflow and one emergency drain. Look up “Herbie Overflow” for more details. Also get a GATE valve for the full siphon or you will go crazy trying to dial it and not be successful probably.
 
with a closed loop you can get more flow around in areas you probably wouldn’t with wavemakers (like under rock structures and such). I would just weigh if it’s worth your money vs maybe buying another wavemaker or better one. I have two Gyre XF350s on my 210 right now and the flow is pretty bonkers 

The 2nd compartment is to run the return plumbing and light wiring from the hood through. I really dont know how I could safely add additional drain as my acrylic skills are currently non existant. I was thinking if I could do closed loop it would be from one hole to the other. If not then I think I'll just closed them off and just do a icecap 300 for flow and more if needed.

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[Blue Z Reef]

8 minutes ago, Nicknjo said:

The 2nd compartment is to run the return plumbing and light wiring from the hood through. I really dont know how I could safely add additional drain as my acrylic skills are currently non existant. I was thinking if I could do closed loop it would be from one hole to the other. If not then I think I'll just closed them off and just do a icecap 300 for flow and more if needed.

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Yeah I understand now that you said that...kind of weird design choice by the tank maker to have a wiring run instead of dual drains.

 

You would have to add one to the right of the current drain and add on part of a box or leave the secondary drain exposed. Acrylic is easier to work with when it comes to holes but do what you are comfortable with.

 

looks like there is a “muffler” on the drain currently, but dual drains are ideal and much safer. 

[Nicknjo]

Yeah I understand now that you said that...kind of weird design choice by the tank maker to have a wiring run instead of dual drains.
 
You would have to add one to the right of the current drain and add on part of a box or leave the secondary drain exposed. Acrylic is easier to work with when it comes to holes but do what you are comfortable with.
 
looks like there is a “muffler” on the drain currently, but dual drains are ideal and much safer. 

Yeah I just built that muffler because there wasn't enough room for a durso. Will I be ok with just one drain? The return compartment of the sump is pretty small. I dont think that it could overflow if clogged but I guess it could damage the pump

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[albertareef]

13 hours ago, Nicknjo said:

Someone later suggested using the two holes in a closed loop for added tank flow. Thought maybe I could add a couple reactors to the loop to make good use of it if I do it.

Closed loop isn't a bad idea for some added flow - especially since it's hard to get flow low in the tank/under rock work etc. with some of the standard power heads.  I would, however, suggest what PDXmonkeyboy said and add another hole for a feed line higher on the back of the tank.  Also, would not suggest using reactors in this loop as they are sort of incompatible with the high flow you are looking for in the CL setup... unless you want to split off a side loop with more restricted flow but that would be a fair amount of extra plumbing.  Probably better to do the reactors off of the main return using a manifold setup.  Just my 2 cents...  Good luck!

[pdxmonkeyboy]

my oh my..  now I see that the second chamber of the "overflow" doesn't actually have a bottom!!  

I have some spare acrylic that would could machine to fill that hole in order to install a second drain pipe.. the problem is still however, access that middle divider to cut some holes in it. 

I suppose it is fine how it is but it is indeed going to be pretty loud. 

On the closed loop... you don't want an inlet on the bottom of the tank as it would suck in sand and what not. 

I can seal them off for you if you want.  It would take all of like 5 min. 

 

Edited January 2, 2020 by pdxmonkeyboy

[Nicknjo]

my oh my..  now I see that the second chamber of the "overflow" doesn't actually have a bottom!!  
I have some spare acrylic that would could machine to fill that hole in order to install a second drain pipe.. the problem is still however, access that middle divider to cut some holes in it. 
I suppose it is fine how it is but it is indeed going to be pretty loud. 
On the closed loop... you don't want an inlet on the bottom of the tank as it would suck in sand and what not. 
I can seal them off for you if you want.  It would take all of like 5 min. 
 

I think I'll just bulk head them closed for now. I already put holes into my tank stand in anticipation of bulkheading. To bad they dont make an overflow box that would fit in that empty chamber.

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[pdxmonkeyboy]

I would be more concerned by the fact that you essentially have a 3/8" thick aquarium because if that overflow seam fails all the water is going to pour out of it.   It shouldn't be a problem, but it certainly would be the first time I have seen something like that.  If you already bought BH, then just do a closed loop! 

[Nicknjo]

I would be more concerned by the fact that you essentially have a 3/8" thick aquarium because if that overflow seam fails all the water is going to pour out of it.   It shouldn't be a problem, but it certainly would be the first time I have seen something like that.  If you already bought BH, then just do a closed loop! 

[language filter] lol just when I thought I got a good deal on a tank but you make a good point. Here's to hoping it doesn't fail


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[Nicknjo]

I would be more concerned by the fact that you essentially have a 3/8" thick aquarium because if that overflow seam fails all the water is going to pour out of it.   It shouldn't be a problem, but it certainly would be the first time I have seen something like that.  If you already bought BH, then just do a closed loop! 

Do you think It would be possible to fill that square cutout and weld in new acrylic Or another way to reinforce that seam. Then maybe I could do a other overflow in the back and run a Herbie or bean. Was hoping I could run as is but now I'm nervous lol

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[albertareef]

18 minutes ago, Nicknjo said:

Do you think It would be possible to fill that square cutout and weld in new acrylic Or another way to reinforce that seam. Then maybe I could do a other overflow in the back and run a Herbie or bean. Was hoping I could run as is but now I'm nervous lol

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I bet you could reinforce that seam from inside the chase with some strips of additional material and not sacrifice much area.  The internal corners might be a bit tricky though. Brian (pdxmonkeyboy) should be able to advise.

[pdxmonkeyboy]

It could be done.  It will not be super pretty, but it can be done.  You would basically need to trace the outline to make a template then risk cutting your fingers off while routing a piece to fit. 

Weld on 4 (or better yet my home made acrylic solvent) and then seal everything with weldon 16.  Should be good to go.   If you bring your tank over on satruday I could do it while you wait. 

Or.. you sweep my shop floor and I will do it for you.  

for real.. I am building a 4x8 aquarium and there is acrylic shavings EVERYWHERE. 

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

15 hours ago, albertareef said:

I bet you could reinforce that seam from inside the chase with some strips of additional material and not sacrifice much area.  The internal corners might be a bit tricky though. Brian (pdxmonkeyboy) should be able to advise.

oohh. I really like that idea Sean.  I could actually cut a square piece of 3/4 acrylic and glue it vertically to the inside of the overflow... that would essentially eliminate having to fit something in the rounded corners!! 

 

[Nicknjo]

It could be done.  It will not be super pretty, but it can be done.  You would basically need to trace the outline to make a template then risk cutting your fingers off while routing a piece to fit. 
Weld on 4 (or better yet my home made acrylic solvent) and then seal everything with weldon 16.  Should be good to go.   If you bring your tank over on satruday I could do it while you wait. 
Or.. you sweep my shop floor and I will do it for you.  
for real.. I am building a 4x8 aquarium and there is acrylic shavings EVERYWHERE.  [emoji4]
 

Shoot me a PM with the time and location and I'll be there

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[pdxmonkeyboy]

Done

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