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Water Pram part 3


Re_Run

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Okay getting better

 

sg 1.025

mag 1380

ph 8.05 to 8.2 have installed the new reef keeper lite with probe.. it comes in at the lower # (8.03 day night 7.9) (calcium reactor out put is ph 6.48) after calabration 3x times. API test kit comes in 8.2-8.4

phos 0 or almost

nit 0

kh 14.. according to the kit (API) was at 11.5 before calcium reactor // ordered a new hanna test coloromiter kit to see if its off

cal 480 back up from 420. ordered a new hanna test coloromiter kit to see if its off

 

temp is dead on at 78

 

using a new ato tunze system. water level at same level for last 3 days

 

think the alk test kit is off

 

all sps, lps seem way happier better color, better polyp extension. the couple that were browned have started to recover color, have one war coral that seems a little pissed but moved it when I clean the glass.

I have been running the calcium reator about 8-9 days think its dialed in finally.. could be wrong

 

the cal came back up to 480 alk stayed the same 48hrs later after a 15% water change.

 

the question is

 

if the alk kh does come in at 14 how do I fix it?.. this is after doing a 15% water change the 2 days before?

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If you want to lower the KH either increase the flow of effluent from the calc reactor or decrease the bubble count. Either way will work but do this in small increments and allow 24 hours before testing for changes

 

 

If you have a PH probe as it looks like you do I would advise this method for testing KH- Madmike posted it up in an old thread and I have been using this method for over a year with scientific accuracy and these guys sell the sulfuric acid;

http://www.nurnberg.com/page.asp?p_key=3ACF63ABF8F3409DA09F97E658370F33

 

I might add that you can buy a 4 liter bottle for like 55.00 that for me is about 1100+ test-do the math. Where can you by a test kit for 55(ish) dollars that gives you over 1000 tests with 100% scientific grade accuracy

It takes me about 2 mins to test and current KH is 9.24 LOL (.24)

 

 

Hope this helps

 

It may be best to calibrate your pH meter using a 4 & 7 standard before you start the test.

 

 

 

 

Easy part; Testing

 

 

Now take a sample of your aquarium water, you can use any volume but I like to use 100ml because my pH meter sits nicely in the cup without me holding it at this level. Stick in your pH meter to your sample. You should get the same reading you do when you stick it directly in your tank. If not start over with a clean sample container. Now draw up some 0.1 N HCl solution in to your 5ml syringe. And start dropping into your sample 0.5 mls at a time and watch your pH meter. You are adding a strong acid so your pH should fall rapidly. Once your pH hits 5 start to slow down and add a drop at a time until your pH hits 4.2 . The reason we are shooting for 4.2 is because this is the point where all available carbonates have been converted to carbonic acid. You would think this would be pH 7 but it's not as carbonic acid is a weak acid and you have to really saturate it etc. Anyway, once you have reached pH 4.2 you are done and now can calculate your total alkalinity.

 

 

 

 

Alk mg of CaC03 /L = A x N x 50,000 / mL of sample

 

 

Where A = ml of acid added

 

 

N = normality of your HCL

 

 

So if you added 4ml of 0.1 HCL before you hit a pH of 4.2

 

 

4*0.1*50,000 / 100 = 200 ppm CaC03 equivalents or your total alkalinity is 4 meg/L (mg/L / 50 = meg/L).

 

 

 

 

The above information was taken and corrected from this thread:

 

 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...ion+alkalinity

 

 

Randy provides further details in this article:

 

 

What is Alkalinity

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/2/chemistry

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Also just to add if you go that route if you add 3 ml of acid the KH is 8.4 so you are not siting there going drip wait drip wait.

 

the simplfied version;

take 100 ml of tank water, put the probe in add 3ml of acid let it settle then add .1 ml of acid letting it settle (takes about 15-20 seconds roughly between drops) and keep doing that until you get 4.2 PH or close to it.

I have 2 syringes one that came from my salifert test kit that is a 2ml and then I have a 5 ml. I use the 2 ml to add those .1 units

 

Anyway take the total ml used and multiply by 2.8 thats your KH level

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I made the same switch a few months ago from API to the hanna checker. Just so you can compare a little, I had a big difference in readings between the 2 test too. I think it would be that way when switching between any 2 brands. It has always been my understanding that we work with in a wide range that is exceptable by our tanks, and as long as we hit some where in that range and keep the # stable it is all good. I know some of us like to aim for a certain # w/ the idea that maintaining that # will give them better growth, I'll tell you though I can never get my KH above 9 (ever) and I get some nice growth. Surprising growth really, not to say it couldn't be better. I think after a few tests w/ the hanna test kit you will find you like it. Unfortunately I don't know much about reactors, so thx for the thread I'm learning a lot from this one.

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It may be best to calibrate your pH meter using a 4 & 7 standard before you start the test

 

used a 7 an 10 test to calibrate it repeated 3x time to make sure it was on

 

When testing PH levels your PH probe will only be accurate with a certain range. If you calibrated using higher solution then it won't be so accurate at lower PH levels.

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