Emerald525 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I saw this on another site and thought it was a good summary of the different methods of dipping zoas. I thought I would pass it along. Freshwater Dip *Caution* this procedure is not recommended for palys or protopalys, as it can result in melting. Preparation: prepare a container of fresh water (preferably RO water), by adding a buffer (baking soda works fine) until the pH matches the pH of your aquarium, and raising the temperature of the freshwater till it matches that of your aquarium. A light concentration of Iodine (approx. 4 drops/gallon) may also be added to the water as well (Lugol’s, Kent Marine’s Concentrated Iodine, or Seachem’s Reef Dip). Dipping: dip the polyps for 3 to 5 minutes, swishing them aggressively throughout the dipping period. Rinse in a separate container of aquarium water and return or place in the aquarium. Effectiveness: Freshwater dips may be effective in removing various pests and for treating some diseases in the beginning stages. Be advised however that it does stress the polyps themselves, and thus is not usually recommended for use with polyps that are already unhealthy. FURAN-2 *Caution* using FURAN-2 as a zoa dip is different than using it for treating fish, the water to med ratio for a zoa dip is much different than what is given on the box. Preparation: Prepare a container of water by dissolving one packet of FURAN-2 in one cup of freshly made saltwater (mix well). Raise the temperature of the water till it matches that of your tank. The water will be a greenish/yellow color. Dipping: Place the polyps in the dip for as little as 5 minutes, but no more than 20. FURAN-2 works better at higher temperatures, so if you have the means slowly increase the temperature to 84° during the dipping process. If you can’t raise the temperature, be sure and maintain it at tank temperature. Remove the polyps and rinse in a container of tank water before placing back into your tank. Polyps may retain a yellow/greenish coloration, but that is normal and will go away in a day or two. Polyps should be dipped once a day for three consecutive days. After completion of the dipping process allow a 5 to 7 day resting period before dipping again, if symptom persist. If you notice any adverse affects as a result of the treatment, stop treatment immediately. Effectiveness: FURAN-2 is effective in combating both Gram positive and Gram negative bacterial infections, as well as fungus. It is also the primary recommended method of treatment for zoa pox. Iodine *Caution* Iodine if administered incorrectly can be lethal to polyps, follow the directions carefully. Preparation: prepare a container of water by removing a cup or gallon of water from your aquarium. For a light dip, add approximately four drops of iodine to a gallon of water. For a more concentrated dip, add four drops to a cup. For a full strength dip, Lugol’s Iodine calls for 40 drops per gallon. Stir the water to distribute the iodine throughout the container. Dipping: dip the polyps by submersing them in the dip for 5 to 15 minutes, swish the polyps aggressively during the dipping process. Rinse in a separate container of aquarium water before returning them to the aquarium. In the effect that the zoas are in really bad shape, you can paint the concentrated iodine solution directly onto the affected areas and allow the zoas to sit on a table or counter for 3 to 5 minutes (*caution* use extreme caution and remain observant if you employ this technique). Effectiveness: Iodine is an antiseptic, and is effective in treating both bacterial and fungal disease. It is also lethal to many invertebrates such as nudis and flatworms, and is an effective preventative measure after fragging. Revive Coral Treatment This is what I have used and have had some success with it Preparation/Dipping: follow the directions on the bottle. Effectiveness: Revive is an antiseptic and is effective in treating bacterial infections, nudis, and flatworms. It is also an effective preventative measure for damaged or fragged corals. Regardless of the dipping technique that you use to aid your struggling zoanthids, it is best to place the affected zoas in an area of high flow when returning them to the aquarium. The exception to this would be the hydrogen peroxide dip, which can actually cause the polyps to float. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.R Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Good post Kim! I've done both the freshwater and the revive. Be prepaired revive smeels like pinesol and plant food. Nasty smelling stuff but it didnt hurt my zoo's. Does anyone know of a dip that will get hair algea off of a frag of zoo's? I got a frag from my brother that had some that I didnt notice when I grabbed it from him. I did get a polyp off that frag so at least I know i'll have a survivor if it takes over the original frag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emerald525 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Good post Kim! I've done both the freshwater and the revive. Be prepaired revive smeels like pinesol and plant food. Nasty smelling stuff but it didnt hurt my zoo's. Does anyone know of a dip that will get hair algea off of a frag of zoo's? I got a frag from my brother that had some that I didnt notice when I grabbed it from him. I did get a polyp off that frag so at least I know i'll have a survivor if it takes over the original frag. Are you sure it's hair algae and not bryopsis. For hair algae I just put it on the bottom of the tank and let the hermit crabs have at it. They don't seem to like eating bryopsis too much though. For bryopsis (looks more fern like) dipping in hydrogen peroxide for 30 seconds usually does the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.R Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 yeah the hemits dont touch this stuff. I'll have to try the peroxide. Thanks for the tip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emerald525 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 yeah the hemits dont touch this stuff. I'll have to try the peroxide. Thanks for the tip! Be careful. I have forgotten them and if you leave them in too long it can kill the zoas but that was like 20 minutes later lol and I was more interested in getting the annoying stuff gone. Also put them in low flow as mentioned above the hydrogen peroxide can cause the zoas to float. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrcrain Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 So straight peroxide or mixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 FWIW-I have dipped about 8 zoas recently that had bryop on them for 30 seconds as Kim mentioned. I did it on one of my own zoa frags to see if the zoas lived, they did, the bryop died, so I then dipped the other 7 frags from the growouts I am doing (laugh) CB3 and CB7 Straight peroxide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emerald525 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Yes straight cheap hydrogen peroxide you get from the store. It works well and the zoas tolerate it well. I also dipped the frag rack that had bryposis on it and killed all of that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr S Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Good post. It would be cool if the site could have some kind of data base with a search ability that would make this type of information more available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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