racefan Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 I found an old 10gal tank (I think. it's 20'x10'x12') I want to make a quarantine tank out of it. It use to be a Q/T tank that my son had. It has a Haagen Aqua clear filter that hangs on the back that has a sponge,carbon bag & bio pellets or whatever those are. What do I need to make it a working Q/T tank? Do I need live rock,etc? or can I just have a couple of pieces of PVC pipe in it? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwcoralfarm Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 It does need to be a fully functioning saltwater tank, however just the bare essentials. I would throw in some cheap live rock and put a skimmer on the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 I personally wouldn't use a skimmer on a qt tank. Most peoples qt tanks turn into hospital tanks once a fish gets sick and most protein skimmers pull out the meds. I have 2 40 gallon breeders I use as QT tanks, both with hang on biowheel type filters and a power head and heater. I have a little live rock in both, but if you do decide to treat with things like copper realize that you will have to continually check and dose to therapeutic level because the rock will absorb some of the meds. I think a 10 gallon might be too small for all but the smallest of fish like chromis, proper qt time is 4 weeks plus and it is going to be hard on any larger fish in that setting, much less keeping water quality up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsoz Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Don't put in sand or rock. If you do end up medicating, then the carbonate sand and rock will absorb the medication so it does not work like it is supposed to. Then it will release the meds back out into the water once you do a water change. If you use copper based meds, this can be detrimental to any inverts. Are you thinking as a QT for fish or for corals? If it is for fish, just the HOB filter with some floss. Fill with water from your tank when you start it up, then empty in between new arrivals. Be sure to dump a bit of water (10% or more up to 50% for a small QT) or so every couple of days and replace with water from your display. Then new SW into the display. This will help with the nitrogen cycle in the QT. If the QT is for coral, then you want a descent set of lights that is somewhat close to what you have in your display. Even a bank of PC or T5 lights could be enough for corals for a few weeks while they are being watched for signs of nudibranchs, acro-eating flatworms, zoapox, nuance algae, etc. dsoz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racefan Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 Don't put in sand or rock. If you do end up medicating, then the carbonate sand and rock will absorb the medication so it does not work like it is supposed to. Then it will release the meds back out into the water once you do a water change. If you use copper based meds, this can be detrimental to any inverts. Are you thinking as a QT for fish or for corals? If it is for fish, just the HOB filter with some floss. Fill with water from your tank when you start it up, then empty in between new arrivals. Be sure to dump a bit of water (10% or more up to 50% for a small QT) or so every couple of days and replace with water from your display. Then new SW into the display. This will help with the nitrogen cycle in the QT. If the QT is for coral, then you want a descent set of lights that is somewhat close to what you have in your display. Even a bank of PC or T5 lights could be enough for corals for a few weeks while they are being watched for signs of nudibranchs, acro-eating flatworms, zoapox, nuance algae, etc. dsoz So just to make sure I've got this straight. When I start it up, do a water change in my display tank & use that water for the QT? Also I have a Hagen HOB filter that I'm putting the sponge in my sump to get some bacteria started. As far as lights go, I'm set there. I just replaced the T5s so I have a spare fixture & bulbs if I QT coral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 depends what you want to do... I leave my qt tanks up full time as I find they have a WELL established biofilter and don't need heavy water changes during treatment. For example, I have 3 fish in one of my QT tanks, a 5" tang and a pair of large (5" plus) allardi clownfish. They have been in the QT tank for 2 weeks with copper and prazi pro and I have not had to do a water change yet. If you set it up fresh it will have to cycle thus stressing out any new additions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael7979 Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Yeah using a 'foam block' that has been in your DTs sump will give you bio. filtration for the QT. DO NOT use LR/LS in the QT. Bare bottom is the best in my opinion. Add a few pieces of PVC for the fish to hide in, your heater and filter and lights and you should be good to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.