Working on 38 Gallon system

[h2odvl]

I had a BC29 for about 4 months(had been running for two years when I got it) when I lived in cali, gave(sold very cheap) it to a co-worker when I moved. New to the area. So this will be my first run at starting a "new" saltwater and a non-all-in-one tank.

This is what I have so far.

 

I would like to get/build a HOB tube overflow with two 3/4" drains that would go on the left side. I'll be using a ca-2200 return pump with 3/4" return line and a 1/2" "halo" spray bar.

 

"Halo"- It would come in the tank on the back right corner and rap around the front of the tank, ending at overflow box. Not sure what the nozzles will be yet but my hope is they can be exchangeable to change flow if need be.

 

In the sump I would like to have a skimmer (maybe a SWC Cone 120?), RO/DI ATO, heater, return pump, bag-o-carbon.

 

Lighting I was thinking of a 150W metal halide from LINK

 

I am also thinking of using this controller

 

As money becomes available I'll start getting/building this stuff. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[grassi]

I'm running a fishneedit 150w. It has been a while (about a year).

It works well for the cost. Reflectors are small (not deep) and not the best around but they work fine.

Let me know about the controller. The project is interesting

[grassi]

Are you gonna use the printer too in your setup? (nutty)

[dsoz]

You may want to consider a 250w halide instead. I have a 40b tank with a 150w HQI pendant that does not cover the entire tank. I would say that about 1/3 of the tank is well lit, 1/3 of the tank is marginally lit (enough for zoas and xenia), and 1/3 of the tank is poorly lit (very dark shadows). A 250w with a larger reflector would probably give better coverage.

 

I would consider drilling the tank instead of having an overflow. You will be much happier with it drilled, and it is easier to do when the tank is empty.

 

I think the "halo" return you talk about is called a Calfo manifold. I have one on my other 40b. I put some screw in adapters and put in some loc-line. I think it works good. I can adjust the flow with new nozzles and direct the flow where I think it could be used best.

 

I like how you are starting out your tank and you already have the RO/DI. That is one of the biggest mistakes that people make when they start this hobby. Livestock before water quality. That is why many people drop out of the hobby after a year or so with a lot of frustration.

 

Welcome to the area, and the group.

 

dsoz

[newfisher]

Just drilled my tank yesterday and we drilled bswe22's Saturday after the meet n greet. Best way to go. If you still want to do an overflow box external, I have a large one if interested. +1 on the rodi w ato....sooooo much easier and better water quality. Sounds like a cool set up. Good luck with the lighting. I would also take into account how far off the surface the bulb will be. Are you hanging it from yo yo's or building a stand? Legs? 250w? If you need some help let me know.

[Mandinga]

definitely drill that bad boy! Hang on overflows are such a pain IMO...

Depending on what you want to keep, you may have to up the lighting...250 would be ideal for SPS, clams etc...if you are doing zoos, rics and other softies, 150w would be fine.

[h2odvl]

Thanks for the info on the lighting, I'm not going to do any sps or clams. It's a little smaller than the 40 breeder as it is only 30" long, I was also thinking I might get the t5-ho to hang on the pendent.

I was planning on just setting the light on top with legs, but I could add a hook and hang the light if need be.

 

Do you think I should drill the bottom or the back? Should I use a overflow box or just run the bulkhead and pvc?

 

dsoz- the calflo is what I was talking about(kinda) Here are some pictures of what I was thinking. Water will come in and down in the corner, I'll have a few nozzles on it for flow around the back and across the rock. It will also go around the right side, front and left side with nozzles pointing down the glass and on the rock.

 

I was also thinking about putting this valve in to adjust the flow on the top.

 

I also pick-up a TDS meter today and test my tap water it was reading 009 ppm, but i still tapped in my rodi, just need to get the waste water saddle and a float valve with a auto shut off.

This is how it sits now

[nnewhouse]

Cool! It's great to see a new reefer in Eugene. Welcome to the area! That is an interesting idea on your return. I like people experimenting with new ideas on their tanks. It keeps things interesting. I agree with drilling your tank also. It's super easy and much more effective. I would go with an overflow box because your water skimming capabilities are greatly improved. The one newfisher has should work great if it's the one I am thinking of. If you need it drilled I know several of us around here have bits. I have 3/4" all the way up to 2" glass bits depending on what you would like to do. Good luck and if you have any questions or need someone to help shoot me a pm.

[bswe22]

Do you think I should drill the bottom or the back? Should I use a overflow box or just run the bulkhead and pvc?

 

 

 

you can't drill the bottom of the tank. It is tempered glass. I am setting up the same tank and we just drilled mine last Sat. I put two holes in it on the top. One in each corner. I am going to make an overflow on both sides. I will post some pictures when I get it done.

 

Bryan

[bswe22]

Do you think I should drill the bottom or the back? Should I use a overflow box or just run the bulkhead and pvc?

 

 

 

You can't drill the bottom of the tank. It is tempered glass. I am setting up the same tank and we just drilled mine last Sat. I put two holes in it on the top. One in each corner. I am going to make an overflow on both sides. I will post some pictures when I get it done.

 

Bryan

[nnewhouse]

You can't drill the bottom of the tank.

Bryan

 

Not all tanks have tempered bottoms. I have actually seen many that don't. I just put 2 holes in the bottom of a 40b last summer. You could drill the bottom if the manufacturer clarifies if it is tempered or not. I think you should just drill the side and put in a small overflow box like Bryan is talking about. That's what I would do with or without a tempered bottom. Just my 2cents.

[ClayTheSavageFraser]

Sweet! Buddy!! You gotta come by some time! I love it!! A new reefer!! You gotta hold out for the Salem, Portland and Medford people for stocking this!! You will be way, way happier than going to aqua serene!! Please trust me!!! It will save you thousands!!

 

And if you want a tattoo, come on down to All Prophets Tattoo and Gallery! Check out my portfolio at www.allprophetstattoos.com

 

Sunshine and Smiles,

 

Clay

[h2odvl]

Thanks for all the warm welcomes!

 

I'm going with an overflow box and drilling the tank, got some acrylic today just need to put some grooves/teeth in it. Then I'll be ready to drill, nnewhouse, I'll be taking you up on your offer for some help drilling. I'm plaining on using two 3/4" bulk heads.

Here's the acrylic

 

I also got some insulation for the bottom of the tank and sump.

Pics

 

I also have on the way from BRS a two camber reactor for GFO and Carbon. DI to add on to my RO and a ATO for it as well. Two part calcium, alkalinity and magnesium setup.

 

Picked up some sand from tat2d that i'll be adding as soon as I get tank drilled and pipes glued.

 

I was also looking at getting a 20" current usa sunpod 250w for $200 I think it's a little better then the fishneedit light i was looking at before.

 

Any recommendation for salt? I was looking at GetTanked salt.

[bswe22]

I was going to make my overflows out of clear plastic or glass. I don't want to cast any shadows down into the tank. How big is your overflow going to be? Is it going from the bottom all the way to the top of the tank? I got the AquaticLife 6 bulb T5HO fixture for my 38 gal. The legs extend out a little past the edges of the tank but I am going to make something to adjust for that. I should be doing my overflows in the next week or two. I will put up pictures then.

 

Bryan

[7Max-GTE]

The best quality salt you will find will probably be the H2Ocean salt, but it is EXPENSIVE to get. Other than that I like Seachem reef salt (mixes to 455 CA and 1250 MG at 1.025 SG) but you will be adding addatives no matter what.

[7Max-GTE]

*H20Life or whatever

[h2odvl]

Thanks for the info on the salt.

 

Bryan, It's going to be 7" 1/2L 8"H 2" 5/8D

Here are a few pics

In this one you can see a little extra hanging past on one side. I hope to drill some holes to put some frags on if need be. ( I was to lazy to cut it off )

[bswe22]

How are you going to attach it to the glass? Will silicone hold it? I have been thinking of making my overflows out of glass.

 

Bryan

[bswe22]

I like the frag rack extention idea on there.

 

Bryan

[7Max-GTE]

That overflow box looks great! You've done some great work!

[dsoz]

The too lazy to cut it off but will turn it into a frag rack is a great idea!!! I know that I need to take my rack out every now and then to clean it. I wonder how easy it will be to clean if it is stuck in there...

 

dsoz

[h2odvl]

I'm trying silicone and I think it should hold it, it's not that heavy.

 

I'm not sure how I will "clean" it, may clean it the same way I'll clean the overflow (to be decided)

 

Here are some pics of it "glued" on the side

In this picture you can see that I cut the teeth at an angle to help water flow and hopefully reduce noise.

[h2odvl]

It holds water! Tested it today when I got home filled it with water and it didn't leak or fall. The frag ext. looks half way cool too. Just need to drill the tank then I can start cycling.

[nnewhouse]

Lookin good buddy!

[h2odvl]

Nick! Thanks so much for coming over and cutting my tank for me, and for the bulkhead and ideas!

 

Got the tank drilled tonight and have a 1.5" bulkhead installed. Going to get it plumed tomorrow and get it leak tested by the end of the night I hope.

 

Next, Get salt, pick up P.S. from Waves, buy a ballast (going to build a light instead of buying)