gradth Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 I have a 250watt aqualite set up with 3 10k bulbs in them. Bulbs are less then 4 months old, dont think there going out or anything but curious about options when I do have to replace them. My question is what is the major difference in 10k, 15k and 20k. Aside from the obvious they have more watts. Currently I dont have a bunch of corals, just a few diffent zoa's and such. The bulbs that are in it are the coralife bulbs that came with the unit. Good brands, bad brands, that sort of thing. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 I have a 250watt aqualite set up with 3 10k bulbs in them. Bulbs are less then 4 months old' date=' dont think there going out or anything but curious about options when I do have to replace them. Some say with in a year some use a meter to tell how much "par" is at certain levels in the tank. My question is what is the major difference in 10k, 15k and 20k. Aside from the obvious they have more watts. The "K" is not the wattage but the kelvin rating and not intensitiyt either - just means the amount of blue mixed in with the white. 65k yellow, 10k a little more whiter, 15k little more blue and 20k just blue Currently I dont have a bunch of corals, just a few diffent zoa's and such. The bulbs that are in it are the coralife bulbs that came with the unit. For softies, what you have is great Good brands, bad brands, that sort of thing. Just as good as another - subjective Thanks Your current setup is 250w 3x 10k's, kind of a white light, burning any actinics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Your current setup is 250w 3x 10k's' date=' kind of a white light, burning any actinics?[/quote'] Aqualight Elite Metal Halide/Compact Fluorescent 72" - 942 watt (3-250 watt, 2-96 watt) That is what I have. The blue antics, which I really dont care for. kinda dull during the day before the halides kick on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 The 10k, 15, 20k all refer to the lighting temperature. Normal sunlight outside will be displaying somewhere around 7100k and is a yellow color, the colors above that increase in intensity becoming whiter and then bluer the higher they go. Don't confuse this with the 420nm and 460nm wavelength of actinics as that is a different measurement. Run a quick search for aquarium bulb temperature and it should give a lot more details. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef165 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 and new recerch shows that they may last quite a while. Before they were beleaved to only last 12 monthes but now with new studies they beleave maybe 24 month's. If you dont like the blue of the pc's I would up the K temp of your MH bulbs to maybe 14k's and leaving the pc's in use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilmca Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 If the MH bulbs are HQI(double ended) I would recommend the 14k Phoenix bulbs. I have used a couple different brands of 14k double ended bulbs and the Phoenix produce a nice white light with a slight blueish tint. In my opinion I don't think you have to supplement with actinics. I would then get a 96 watt PC bulb that is a mix of actinic and 10k if you can and have them come on the first and last 2 hours of the light cycle but go off when the MH come on. The PC's represent the morning and late day sun and the MH the mid day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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