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130 gallon tidepool at school


tidalsculpin

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So, I am well on my way to building the tidepool in my classroom. Thanks to several people here at PNWMAS and the help of some very generous donors like Envision Acrylics the tank is taking shape.

 

Here is a link to the great help I got in the Fall.

http://www.pnwmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2212&highlight=tidepool

 

I applied for a permit from ODFW for collection and received it December 18th.

http://161.55.120.155/pdf/3822.html

 

Here are pics of the tank construction by James and a schematic of filtration.

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I have built the skeleton of the stand and am in the process of plumbing now. I'll post pics of some of this process tomorrow. I want to get the tank running soon to get it properly cycled and ready for life. Kids will be doing intertidal zone reports in early March. I hope to have it rockscaped and crawling with animals by then.

Joel

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While your tank is cycling, be sure to leave the chiller off, otherwise you will have a long wait. Looks like a nice setup. I would use some dry baserock in the sump chamber, rather than bioballs. While it would not have the initial bacteria present for denitrification, it will soon become established with aerobic/anaerobic bacteria. Another option would be lava rock or Cell-Pore. http://fins.actwin.com/killietalk/month.200103/msg00771.html I'm not sure how effective the live rock found on our Coast is, at least for keeping nitrates down, as it is often very dense and non-porous. I once used the gray, glass-like, light-weight "feather rock" that is popular for landscaping, in the sump of a Discus tank. I had very good results with it and it was very inexpensive.

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I have some feather rock from a previous project. Great idea. What do you use to cycle? Ammonium chloride? Shrimp method? Some cycle product?

 

I set it up on an already established tank, so the run-in time went very quickly.

Any of those methods will work. Maybe you could use a combination of those methods?

I once cycled a new tank with some freshly shucked oyster shells from a seafood company. You could probably get a live oyster at the seafood counter at the grocery store for about 50 cents each or so, & toss it in. Hey - it might even survive the cycling... either way, it has a better chance than it's buddies back in the seafood section!:D

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Well, I did an initial water test today. Some mixed results. I need to epoxy two small leaks on the return. I have a slightly leaky bulkhead. My used pcx-100 is verry loud. Not conducive to teaching. I had my first experience with back siphoning too. Needless to say I am not that discouraged.

It is kind a tough to set this thing up with a new baby in my home and trying to teach at the same time. Tomorrow, I'll fixh the return and try to get the bulkhead to a non-leaky state. I mught have to rethink the pump.

 

Later,

 

Joel L.

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Thanks on that one. I have read that mouse pads help on that too. I have a bare floor on purpose to try to dissapate heat into the concrete slab. I guess I can slip a pad or other piece of rubber underneath.

I fixed my skimmer connection today that was leaking. It's solid now. Gonna try to redo the return plumbing Sunday or Monday.

 

I have two consistent drips between joints in the return line. Should I cut off at my tee and start from scratch or do some other fix? I have pvc glue, wet dry pvc glue, abs glue and epoxy putty. Could I just putty the joints? All joints were glued.... I know I was too confident. Should of wrapped em.

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I would trust an epoxy over relying on salt any day. I would be scared to come back from a few weeks away in the summer and have that salt plug dissolve. (which makes me think, hope you live close to the school for feeding in the summer and what are your plans) I used some JB weld to fix a crack on the bottom of my Ocean Clear Canister months ago, so far so good.

If you redo the plumbing, be sure to use primer and don't move the pipes for awhile while the glue sets in. If you're bending the pipes, that can be an issue with getting a tight fit. Might glue one end at a time and let cure if possible. There are some techniques out there by wrapping the pipes with a special blanket type heater to bend PVC.

 

Garage floor padding or those giant foam kids puzzles might be good too, nice and thick to absorb the noise of pump, chiller, etc.

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Yeah, I am going to redo the return. I wasnt happy with the way I had it set up anyways. I'm going to redo it tonight.

 

1 inch pvc from the return pump- 90 elbow to 1 inch tee- 1 inch pvc- two separate ball valves below water line and near the open part of the stand- 1 -/3/4 ell reducers -new 3/4 inch bulkheads- to four 1/2 inch locline return outlets. The locline will be placed near the overflows and about halfway deep into the tank. When I kicked on the pcx -100 there was a lot of flow. It is rated 1590gph. My tank height plus stand is 4' 3 inches. You just heard the amount of elbows and such. I figure I will have close to 1200 gph or a little less. I used the rc headloss calculator to try and figure this out.

 

For the soundbox on the pump should I use pinkboard and plywood? Do I need to put vents on the top of the box?

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Sweet set up. I would also like to visit your tank some time. You are more then welcome to come to the rock building seminar I am hosting in February at my school. My 8th graders just got through doing ocean animal powerpoints. I gave them extra credit if they did a critter from the reef tank. It is a great way to get students to appreciate the reef and get them to learn biology terminology. I can send you the outline if you are interested. They then presented to the class.

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Here is a nice article written for Aquarium Fish Magazine by David Wrobel of Monterey Bay Aquarium

The Temperate Reef Tank - Part One

http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=9569&cid=3793&search=

The Temperate Reef Tank - Part Two

http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=9570&cid=3793&search=

 

A good short post by Bob Fenner.

 

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cold.htm

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