acrylics

the torch trick *kinda* works, still leaves the scratch, just polishes the white part, but it stresses the material so don't advise it. 3 other good choices: * Novus 2/3 by hand, #1 does squat for scratches, just a cleaner. I you use 3, be sure to use 2 after * Small buffing wheel in a drill, use Novus 2/3 (I hate 3 but has it's place) - just make sure to use lotsa Novus so you don't burn the acrylic. * Micromesh, the *complete* kit, the kit available at Woodcraft is not the same kit available at Micro-surface.com (kit NA-78-1 or MA-1) There are a coupla other kits out there, but cost much more $$ James

If 1 5/8" is the size of the hole in the bulkhead, it's 1 1/4" PVC which has an OD of ~1 5/8". So really, it's a 1 1/4" bulkhead. Most LFS should carry those. James

Yep, Tap stopped carrying Acrylite and they just carry Chemcast now due to their need to maintain 200% mark-up. I've replaced a number of tanks made from that material; the joints just fail after a couple years with no apparent warning. Most tanks were made professionally :( James

If the tubing was brand new - it'd be worth about $2500 or so. Used and stressed, maybe $400-500 or thereabouts. Depends on the mfr of the tube, if it's Spartech tube (old Townshend/Glasflex) it would be worth more than if it's Reynolds tube. Anyone can glue Spartech tube, not the case with Reynolds. If you need a home for it, lemme know, but the above is about what it's worth unless you can find someone who *really* wants it Wouldn't be very good as a jelly tank with those dimensions, too tall and narrow - wouldn't get the proper current pattern. HTH, James

Can't touch GC's pricing for that glass tank, but given the height of 14" or so - making it out of acrylic with no center brace is easy stuff James

IMO it depends on why you have covers in the first place. If you have covers to keep jumpers in, then use egg crate, bird net, or similar. Acrylic is bad choice for such things for several reasons but is still commonly sold with tanks. If you want a full cover like you have, I'd use polycarbonate rather than acrylic - it wont warp out nearly as bad. FWIW, light blockage by acrylic will end up being about 7-8% - mostly from reflection (given clean acrylic) HTH, James

There was a good article a few years ago by Rob Toonen called "Are Plenums Obsolete" His emphasis being on deep sand beds IIRC IMO to say they are "destined to fail" is a bit of a stretch but they are by no means necessary nor the best method. Plenty of folks have had good success using plenums through the years. James

I'd probably cut it down about an inch or so, which would leave ~3/4" above the waterline. Depending on head pressure, a 1/4" x 1" slot should yield ~40GPH +/- so 17" should yield ~1500GPH + some for the absense of surface tension. HTH, James

If it helps at all, the tank is made completely from 1/2" Polycast brand cell cast acrylic, the overflow may be thicker than that though, in fact it's probably 3/4" black. $550-600 is the going rate for the tank alone so you can basically look at this deal as if the sump & stand are free. Heck of a deal IMO James

Smann, Wires are used on almost all joints, and certainly anything tank related. Thin material like 1/4" or 3/8" gets .008" wires while anything thicker gets the twist-ties which are .014". Just works for me, but experiment and see what works best for you Solvents will vary & material will vary, so wire size and "soak time" can/will vary as well. Mike, So proud and happy for you, keep up the good work (rock2) HTH, James

If they have the little "leaf" looking thinks on the "tentacles" as the pics show, they are most likely Cassiopeia sp., usually Cassiopeia andromeda (usually all tan to brown IME) or Cassiopeia xamachana (often with some blue parts IME.) Happens from time to time with new rock but rare. Most often though, they are hydroid polyps strobilating into the medusa stage of certain species we get in our tanks. They'll be translucent white to clear. More common and my off-hand guess without seeing an actual pic. Hopefully the names above will help you ID the little critters James

Hell, I'll try it, I have enough scrap around. Send me one, or are they sold in grocery stores? James

They actually sell a device called a Tapmatic which is made for this. You chuck it up, and drive the tap through the hole then an internal clutch reverses the tap and pulls it back out, handy little tool if doing a bunch of holes. If doing a lot of these, try a spiral fluted tap, really helps to keep the chips from packing, comes out as long threads. As for doing it with a drill, I do it all the time, in any thickness. If the tap is good, material thickness shouldn't matter much. Best/easiest lube IMO is a 50:50 mix of Palmolive and water. Slippery and water soluble James

aww come on, spring for an ACOG DOH!