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Nicknjo

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Posts posted by Nicknjo

  1. Not sure the point of the other chamber on the overflow is but ideally you want one full siphon overflow and one emergency drain. Look up “Herbie Overflow” for more details. Also get a GATE valve for the full siphon or you will go crazy trying to dial it and not be successful probably.
     
    with a closed loop you can get more flow around in areas you probably wouldn’t with wavemakers (like under rock structures and such). I would just weigh if it’s worth your money vs maybe buying another wavemaker or better one. I have two Gyre XF350s on my 210 right now and the flow is pretty bonkers 
    The 2nd compartment is to run the return plumbing and light wiring from the hood through. I really dont know how I could safely add additional drain as my acrylic skills are currently non existant. I was thinking if I could do closed loop it would be from one hole to the other. If not then I think I'll just closed them off and just do a icecap 300 for flow and more if needed.

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  2. I would most definately take advantage of a closer loop. The fell out of favor when all the new wave makers hit the market but now that we have all these low energy DC pumps on the market they make even more sense.

    I want prattle on about how much better they are than wave makers, but I will say this... no maintenance!! None, zero. No soaking, no scrubbing, no nothing.

    Anyways, if they are truly 2" wide holes then I would buy two 1" schedule 80 bulkheads. You are also going to need a other hole in the back of your tank for an inlet. Probably 1" or 1.5" bulkhead.

    You can get a jebao DCQ pump that moves 2600 gph, and has a pulsing wave function for $130 on Amazon.

    Your also going to want to redo that drain on the tank. One pipe is going to be REALLY noisy.

    Cheers

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    How would you change the overflow?

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  3.  

    First off thanks everyone for the warm welcome and the help so far. I have another question as to what y'all would do. My new 140 has 2 2" holes drilled in the bottom supposedly for a under gravel filter that was used in its previous life. When I bought the tank i was just gonna plug them both with bulk heads and not worry about them. Someone later suggested using the two holes in a closed loop for added tank flow. Thought maybe I could add a couple reactors to the loop to make good use of it if I do it. My question is cap em off or run a closed loop. Tank is a single overflow 1" single return as it sits running to and fro the sump.

     

    TIA!!!

     

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  4. Update: I broke down and just bought a little bit bigger of a sump. Went with the R-200. Thanks all for the advice. I'm sure I could have made it work but I got the sump on sale so easy peasy.

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  5. I don't think the pics in my build thread are very easy to see.  My tank has two separate overflows, each with it's own drain and return line so I was going to have to do some plumbing work if I wanted a more traditional single point of entry to a sump anyway.  You could definitely do what you are proposing and split off the single drain and achieve the same result.  I can try to take some better pics and send them your way.  It's pretty tight down there so might be a bit hard to see [emoji847]
    I'll search for your build thread and take a look.

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  6. Late to the game here but just wanted to add that I have had pretty good success doing something similar with two separate sumps - one is run as a refugium with deep sand bed and the other has mechanical filtration, heating, dosing etc.  The refugium drains into the latter with a shared return pump.  I have separate drains running from the main tank to the two sumps so can separately control flow etc. (could also do this by splitting flow post drain if you only have one).  My refugium is a taller tank that was already drilled so just ran a gravity drain to the main sump (a bit different than what has been suggested.  Found this arrangement to be quite flexible and effective FWIW.  I am running a 6foot 125 so had to work in a narrow footprint inside the stand and  "daisy-chaining" sumps gave me a lot more capacity/flexibility.
    I had considered this option. I only have 1 overflow but I do have two drilled holes in the bottom of the tank I had planned on bulkheading closed. Maybe T off the overflow line with an adjustable flow valve to the refugium. Do you have any pics on your set up? I'd really like to see it.

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  7. If you end up going with the two sumps, it's easy to just cut a good sized hole in both sumps on either side where you want them connected then stand one sump on its end, add a few drops of acrylic weld-on to the one side and set the other sump on top of it allowing gravity to push the sumps together. Make sure the weld-on completely filled the gaps between the two sumps and when it cures, those two sumps will be stronger than if they were one unit to begin with. And no chance of them leaking if it was bonded correctly.
    Which weld on? There is 2 or 3 different versions if I'm not mistaken, correct? I like this way as I feel like it eliminated the possibility of failure between the two sumps.

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  8. I connected a 35 and a 45 gallon sump under my 200G tank using two bulkheads and it worked just fine. If you're not going to use PVC pipes in between the sumps then you will want to get some extra gaskets to put in between the sumps. It would be best to have a small amount of pvc in between the sumps though as i had an issue about 1 year in as the gaskets shrunk a bit and the bulkheads had to be tightened. 
    Yeah that definitely seems like the easiest way to do it. Did you put the bulk heads at the top of the water level or near the bottom of the sump?

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  9. So I picked up a decent acrylic sump to go with my 60 gallon cube which I later found the cube leaked and decided to scratch the project. Then I picked up this 140 acrylic tank which came with a tiny little bioball drip through sump which is to small plus I want a refugium. My question to you all is, would it be possible to connect these two sumps to operate in series and make a longer run essentially making one large 5 chamber sump. I've researched for a bit and seems like it's possible using bulkheads as a connection but I'm thinking to actually join the two tanks permanently and cut an overflow from one tank to the next. Is this a dumb idea? Thoughts?34123e7f1c48fabbcede9f6dd11f0516.jpg

     

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  10. That might be the fastest upgrade I can remember. Barely got the first one wet. Just think of it as saving a lot of time. [emoji16]
    Maybe, I think I need to do some structural work on my floor joists now to support this tank so I'll call that even, but we've always wanted a 120 so 140 is even better haha

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  11. Hi, thanks for the add. My name is nick and I have been out of the hobby for about 7 years due to military moves and so on. I had a 90 deep reef tank with a 20l sump back in Virginia and it was painfull to tear down and I sold everything with no intentions of getting back into it. While I am currently in the process of standing up my new to me 60g cube with 24 gallon (I believe) sump. Just got done framing the stand today and have a long way to go but itll be worth it. dd150891d6df0e4f5e9f8d4dfb174963.jpg

     

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