Nicknjo

Pdxmonkeyboy, Where would one find that CP?

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53 minutes ago, GreenJeans said:

I'm just starting out and currently running my second batch of fish through quarantine, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

 

I'd start with a bigger tank than 10gal.  I have a 20gal long that I added a glass divider into for two 10gal sections, and it's hard to keep ammonia low in both sections.  I could get away with less frequent water changes if I had a larger system (or fewer/smaller fish in there).  At some point you're going to want to quarantine a larger fish, or a school of small fishes, and 10gal will be hard to manage.

 

A simple hang-on filter and heater will be fine, definitely run the filter in your sump for a few weeks before hand like you mentioned to establish the bacteria.  Don't hesitate to add some nitrifying bacteria in a bottle to the QT tank when you set it up also, just to make sure there's plenty of bacteria. 

 

Rubble rock is a great idea to add more surface area for the bacteria, but it will absorb any medications you might run and can never be used in any other system.

 

Also add some larger PVC elbows and Tees to give the fish somewhere to hide when they're stressed.

 

Use a lid to reduce evaporation, but you don't need to put a light on the tank - just enough ambient light to allow you to observe the fish is enough.

 

ADD AMMONIA ALERT BADGES. https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Ammonia-Alert-Year-Monitor/dp/B01HHA4ITY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ammo+alert&qid=1582661357&sr=8-2  Test for ammonia daily (twice a day if running 10gal and larger/more fish), salinity, and test for copper if you plan to dose it.

 

Following my lfs advice, I'm running my QT with hypo-salinity (1.018), cupramine, and round (or two) of prazipro.  I decided that the added stress of this treated water was worth the peace of mind of greatly reduced risk of introducing parasites to my display.   I think of it like the trolly problem - "Would I rather maybe kill 1 fish with a stressful treatment/QT, or would I rather maybe kill all my fish by letting a parasite through?"

 

 

Thanks for the advice, you already got a head start on what I know about the process.  I will take the advice the the 20 gallon tank for sure. Also I have heard hyposalinity as well and plan on doing that.

19 minutes ago, Burningbaal said:

It's not a bad plan if your QT will be mostly observation. an ammonia badge as GreenJeans recommended is fantastic. Also, I highly recommend buying Safety Stop (I get mine from Melevsreef.com) as an initial step. This dramatically reduces any unseen external parasites (flukes, velvet, ich, etc) on the fish, giving them a much stronger starting point when going into the QT. It's not perfect, but it's very useful. Plus the 'Part B' of it helps remedy any ammonia burn their gills may have from being in the bag.

However, I think the best of the hobby is finding the 'hybrid TTM' method of QT to be ideal; it seems to totally eradicate all external parasites. The main drawbacks are:

1. It uses quite a bit of saltwater due to all the tank transfers
2. it takes exacting diligence (each transfer must be as close to 72 hours as possible, so you're tied to your QT for 13 days)
3. The cleaning is a bit of a pain.

I can't explain the actual hybrid TTM better than humblefish himself, so I'll just link it here.

https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hybrid-ttm-to-treat-all-parasites.87/

My best plan is to do the Safety Stop treatment, then wait in the first QT for 6 days (with Prime for ammonia mitigation) and then do the first H2O2 bath. This extends the treatment by 5/6 days, but gives one extra round of destruction for any sneaky velvet/flukes, the Safety Stop helps them start after the soothing Part B bath, and a few extra days to de-stress and eat before the first transfer.

This plan basically moves the H2O2 treatment; humblefish has it on Day 4 and 10, mine puts it on day 6 and 12. so my schedule:

Day 0: safety stop, into QT with Prime

Day 6: H2O2 bath and first TT

Day 9: just TT

Day 12: H2O2 bath and 3rd TT

Day 15: TT

Day 18: TT

Clean fish! now observe for two weeks and treat (if needed) for bacterial infection and/or internal worms. If evidence of bacteria/internal worms comes up early, it is a pain to dose for that with the TTM...but it also is dangerous to treat those with copper, so...no loss.

The main thing here, is that your HOB filter and rubble are no use because everything has to get sterilized for each TT. next-best would be to get some grocery store sponges and store them in the sump for several days, pulling one into each new tank. And you'll need two tanks, two heaters, two powerheads, etc.

10g is okay for small fish, I like two 20-long tanks with 10g of water personally, this makes a lot of the math and such easier and mitigates some of the issue with jumpers (a 20-long holds around 16g, so the 10g waterline is fairly low)

That sure is a thorough method no doubt. I dont think my schedule would allow for me to do this especially  every time I add fish. I was hoping more for an observation and treat if needed type of situation. Would you say that's not a viable method of QT? 

So I have never used a quaranteen tank before but this time around I am definitely gonna do it. My plan is a 10g aqueon tank with a hang on filter ran on my sump for a few weeks before, along with a heater. I also have some rubble rock left over from main tank that I was gonna put in there too that's cycling in my sump now. Is this to basic of a set up for a viable long term q-tank? Looking for advice, what do yall do?

 

Thanks

 

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Nice rock works! Fun times ahead.

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Thanks, our first time doing aquascaping. Cant say I didn't pull out any hair but the effort was worth the final product for sure.

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At last, I finally was able to fill the tank. Still waiting on bulbs for the light and couple powerheads are on the way. Retrospect I sure wish I would have made the stand wider cause we were severely limited on sump options. Either way super stoked to get this cycle started soon. Still deciding on which product to use as this is all dry rock. Thanks again to pdxmonkey for helping me get this tank back to reef ready and looking good.

 

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I'll take 2

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1/2" acrylic. Dimensions are 20x10x7.5" comes with lid.
 
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$?

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I'm gonna be off work looks like we can make this one. Cant wait to meet some more of yall. Also 2nd the post about is this a kid friendly meet? Also I know there will be some frag trading going on, but if someone coming has about 30-40 lbs of some decent dry rock maybe some pukani they're looking to sell at the meet...

 

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It does look great BTW.  Would be curious to see a detail on that overflow reinforcement.  That light is a perfect fit for this tank - love how the MH bulbs sit perfectly over the openings so should reduce the chances of heat/UV damage to the acrylic (don't ask me how I know).

Brian welded a couple of strips of scrap acrylic on the inside of the empty overflow compartment and then welded in the square plug to those and then welded a full bead top and bottom, then I ran another of weldon 16 around it again when I got home for good measure. It's been leak tested and is solid. Those MH lights were definitely a perfect fit in the openings. I guess I should scrap the idea of putting a lid over them if they are just gonna warp. Thanks for the heads up. Cant wait to get some bulbs in there to see how it looks.

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Wow. The edges of that tank look amazing! Someone really hooked you up! Lol

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I was waiting till complete to give you a shout out but... your help getting my tank squared away, plugging the bottom, fixing overflow, and rounding the edges was awesome!! Thanks again, turned out great

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I guess I'm a day late but getting closer and wanted to share. Got a smoking deal on the giesemann moonlight this morning so huge check off the list.

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I have 3 large pieces of man made purple rock that has cured for about 3 months now so is live and pest free and super clean. Total weight is 40lbs see photos. $120 for it all. 

Thank you, but as of this morning im all set now.

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PM's sent

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Holidays have put a damper on the build budget. Anyone have some dry rock they dont need for a good deal? Need a total of 120ish lbs but at least enough to get up and cycling. Also ISO RODI filter. And maybe a 48-60" t5 if you have one cheap [emoji16]. Located near Oly but I'll drive for a deal.

 

TIA.

 

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Ok I see it now. It doesn't populate in tapatalk for some reason. Works fine on desktop version

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I believe you should be able to see it. Do you not have the “store” option on either the horizontal navigation tabs (desktop) or in the hamburger drop down (mobile)?  

Correct, well using tapatalk at least I have no store option

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Not seeing the option anywhere in the menu for membership. Do I need to meet a post count first or something?

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Nice, something relatively close to home. [emoji106] hope I can get off work for this.

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Appreciate the heads up. Just picked up a 10lb bag to give it a try.

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It could be done.  It will not be super pretty, but it can be done.  You would basically need to trace the outline to make a template then risk cutting your fingers off while routing a piece to fit. 
Weld on 4 (or better yet my home made acrylic solvent) and then seal everything with weldon 16.  Should be good to go.   If you bring your tank over on satruday I could do it while you wait. 
Or.. you sweep my shop floor and I will do it for you.  
for real.. I am building a 4x8 aquarium and there is acrylic shavings EVERYWHERE.  [emoji4]
 

Shoot me a PM with the time and location and I'll be there

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I would be more concerned by the fact that you essentially have a 3/8" thick aquarium because if that overflow seam fails all the water is going to pour out of it.   It shouldn't be a problem, but it certainly would be the first time I have seen something like that.  If you already bought BH, then just do a closed loop! 

Do you think It would be possible to fill that square cutout and weld in new acrylic Or another way to reinforce that seam. Then maybe I could do a other overflow in the back and run a Herbie or bean. Was hoping I could run as is but now I'm nervous lol

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I would be more concerned by the fact that you essentially have a 3/8" thick aquarium because if that overflow seam fails all the water is going to pour out of it.   It shouldn't be a problem, but it certainly would be the first time I have seen something like that.  If you already bought BH, then just do a closed loop! 

[language filter] lol just when I thought I got a good deal on a tank but you make a good point. Here's to hoping it doesn't fail


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my oh my..  now I see that the second chamber of the "overflow" doesn't actually have a bottom!!  
I have some spare acrylic that would could machine to fill that hole in order to install a second drain pipe.. the problem is still however, access that middle divider to cut some holes in it. 
I suppose it is fine how it is but it is indeed going to be pretty loud. 
On the closed loop... you don't want an inlet on the bottom of the tank as it would suck in sand and what not. 
I can seal them off for you if you want.  It would take all of like 5 min. 
 

I think I'll just bulk head them closed for now. I already put holes into my tank stand in anticipation of bulkheading. To bad they dont make an overflow box that would fit in that empty chamber.

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Yeah I understand now that you said that...kind of weird design choice by the tank maker to have a wiring run instead of dual drains.
 
You would have to add one to the right of the current drain and add on part of a box or leave the secondary drain exposed. Acrylic is easier to work with when it comes to holes but do what you are comfortable with.
 
looks like there is a “muffler” on the drain currently, but dual drains are ideal and much safer. 

Yeah I just built that muffler because there wasn't enough room for a durso. Will I be ok with just one drain? The return compartment of the sump is pretty small. I dont think that it could overflow if clogged but I guess it could damage the pump

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