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GreenJeans

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GreenJeans last won the day on February 26 2020

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  1. I'm planning to move to a new city in a year or so and I'd like to bring my 120g aquarium with me of course. I figured I'd ask for thoughts and tips now while I still have plenty of time to plan ahead. What's the process look like? Prepare all the plumbing and new space very carefully so everything comes together quickly (no waiting for pvc cement to dry, salt mixed and up to temp, everything measured out and outlined, etc), put all livestock in rubbermaid totes with circulation/heat, drain the tank, breakdown the system, move everything, install the sump and tank in the new place, fill with with water, pray the leak test passes, add the livestock....this process sounds like it would take forever with lots of opportunity for things to go sideways...
  2. I had an ah-hah/face-palm moment when I realized that I've been neglecting my over-complicated refugium. I removed all the rubble and vacuumed out TONS of detritus. I'm hoping this constant source of organics breaking down was causing the problems. I'm giving the tank time to run stable for a while to see how things respond, so far I have no further coral losses.
  3. I have one available with a painted back and bottom, glass lid...in north portland?
  4. Quick update - I turned off the nopox, removed the carbon, GFO, and UV around 2 weeks ago, and started lowering the alk. Parameters seem okay (alk still a little high at 8.3 on the hannah, 7.6 on the triton) except Phosphate is 0.43. Do I really over-feed that much, or is there something else going on here? No apparent change to coral growth. I need to get this phosphate under control, then I'll do some Oceamo testing. One more note - it's running ~3gal/day auto water change...
  5. I'll also take a close look at all my equipment - reef octopus pumps, titanium heaters, apex probes, and a JBJ chiller...ICP OES came back pretty clean though high on iron (probably from too much gfo)
  6. Great advice, thanks. I've turned off the nopox, carbon, gfo, and uv. Now it's running socks, chaeto, skimmer, and 2 part, we'll see how things develop.
  7. Thanks for the tip, synbiotic looks interesting. I'll take a closer look when this bucket of tropic marin pro is out.
  8. Nope, no pod eaters, and definitely plenty of pods. I haven't been feeding phytos but they're still easy to find all over the tank...maybe I need to feed phytos to keep make sure my pods are happy and not munching on corals?
  9. Thanks for all the thoughts, it's at least reassuring to know I'm not the only one - I'll lower the alk to 7.5-7.8. I'll also stop dosing No3/Po4-x. I started the nopox dosing pretty recently; I had been losing corals long before starting, the dosing is an attempt to lower nutrient levels thinking that was my problem. I'll also pause the UV, carbon reactor, and GFO reactor, then watch nutrients closely...I guess if it ain't broke don't fix it, here my thinking was added toys for added security/success rate. Maybe the 24/7 GFO/carbon/UV is too much...
  10. Forgot to mention feeding schedule - - One cube frozen food in the am (~3 grams) - 4x4" sheet of nori + some pellet fish food around noon - One cube frozen food in the pm - Feed corals twice a week after lights off with reef chili and aminos Livestock - a foxface and two tangs, 3-5" - two clowns - 8 anthias and 3 chromis - some firefish, inverts
  11. yup, ULR hanna phosphate checker. It's always seemed a bit odd (but fortunate?) that I've never had an ugly phase... I did introduce a foxface fairly early on, but I've never had any kind of algae problem. I had a bit of a dino bloom once or twice. My first ball of chaeto melted away and had to be replaced, the chaeto I have now seems to be established but not growing much.
  12. I'm using carbon 24/7, the sinularia was a new small frag and a very recent addition
  13. I'm feeling frustrated and defeated. I don't understand why corals that used to thrive in my system are struggling or have died off completely, new corals struggle and usually die. The last couple frags I added died within a week or two. The stylopora was losing chunks of flesh like it was being eaten or just dissolving?! Seems like only softies are happy, and not even all of them... I feel like my system should be running perfectly right now, the tank filling with sps. It's got all the bells and whistles... I have been struggling to get nitrates/phosphates down, I guess I overfeed? I started dosing no3/po4-x. Also, there's lots of vermitid snails (more in the history summary) I think I need someone with experience (eyes for parasites?) to come take a look at my tank and offer advice. Params tested today - Alk: 8.8(hannah), 8.34(Trident) Ca: 440(hannah), 399(Trident) Mg: 1440(Red Sea), 1360(Trident) Nitrate: 5(Nyos) Phosphate: .08 System: - 120g display, 30g sump - 450gph turnover - 2 MP40's and 1 ReefWave 45 (see attached MP40 schedules) - 3 Kessil A360x (see attached light schedule, the AB+ line is redSea's AB+ program recommended schedule) - smallish sand bottom, 1-2" thick - filter socks - refugium with rocks and chaeto, inverse photoperiod - big UV on 24/7 - Carbon 24/7 - GFO 24/7 - big skimmer - 5 stage rodi Brief History - Started with Fritz Pro RPM blue box salt, BRS 2-part dosing - initial corals growing well, stylopora and birds nest grew significantly. mushrooms big and lush, dividing - never really got nitrates/phosphates under control, hovered around 20nitrate and .15phosphate - discovered what Vermitid snails are when they started covering everything in my tank - ran out of BRS 2-part, switched to Triton method 4-part (cause the sump was designed for it and I had the dosing pumps for it, figured I should) - got lazy about manual testing, relied on the Trident and 4-part dosing too much - calcium eventually dropped to ~300, no idea how long it was there - after a while I noticed coral growth was slowed, leptosiris mostly died away, purple stylo eventually slowly died all the way - Triton ICP test came back okay but said Iron was high, recommended weekly water changes with Tropic Marin salt - https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/icp-oes/155893 - switched back to BRS 2-part, switched to Tropic Marin Pro reef salt - 5 or 6 weekly ~20% water changes - Some things seem to be responding well, leptosiris, favias... - Added new frags - blue stag, birds nest, purple stylo - all those died quickly. The softies mostly seem okay (except for the sinularia), the brains seem alright too. See attached photos of the tank: - Blue eyed blond zoas have been closed for months, they used to be open and spreading. Candycane not spreading like it was. Paly growing fine - New brain coral frags doing okay. New softie frags doing...eh, alright? look at the sinularia(?) in the back, it's turned shrunken and spotty, looks like it wants to die - Leptosiris that I thought was dead is coming back! Frogspawn is hanging on but doesn't have the extension it used to, not growing like it was - look at that totally dead stylo skeleton I'm reluctant to remove from the tank, encrusted with corraline algae...the biggest skeleton grown in my tank - New birds nest frag is just about dead, growing algae. that orange thing looks sad - sponge and blasto look happy - nems look happy...never had the bubble tips but it used to be one RBT and now it's 3 that host 2 clowns Corals that should be thriving are still dying and I don't know what to do or how to figure out why. help?!
  14. I follow these guides for equipment and practices fairly closely and have had excellent success - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/setting-up-a-quarantine-tank-and-how-to-quarantine-fish-a-guide.153265/ https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/my-current-qt-process.483371/ Biggest advice I can give is to get the biggest QT tank you possibly can, struggling to keep ammonia levels down in a small tank can be challenging and deadly for fish. Here's my (empty, ready for new fish!) 55gal QT using a canister filter...
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