Trautman

dude, the mantis are awesome! plus they are easier to deal with than seahorses (as i hear) and lobsters are less exciting. did you see the mantis the TCM has?

What is the price tag on them?

the average ones run for 60 ish of you buy them from a reputable dealer, but the really crazy and rare ones get spendy, they almost make saltwater look cheap lol

^^^ hahaha, a very good deal, they are both very sexy -i am sure of it! (although maybe emerald has made me think differently)

That is SEXY! [language filter]. i really would like to have 350$ to kill right now

phosban reactor??? hmmmmm

what is discus

they are a type of south american cichlid that is expensive and very colorful. they look sort of like more round, more colorful versions of yellow tangs

saw this on craigslist, i thought someone should go for it, its a great deal

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/hsh/2180019329.html

i have a 50 gallon tank running at 1.009 salinity 24/7 in my garage, i havent really used it yet, but i am intending to do so. from what i hear, it isnt necessary or even practical, but it cannot hurt, and i lost most of my fish to ich and bacteria a few months ago, so i am doing it to take an extra measure.

this is a good deal, and ocboat is a great guy! i bet you will walk out of his house with more than a wrasse though lol!

+1, and when you grow hair algae on the "nipple" genus of zoas, you call it nipple hair algae, and when they are not doing too well you call it nipple chafing.

do you think that the live rock would work for the buffing part?

i know the stuff you are talking about- the petco 6.50 per 10lb bag

no- the lights on a uv sterilizer need to emit the proper uv spectrum, which would be harmful to algae (i think). it is certainly harmful to coral, that is why there is an extra filter on Mh bulbs/ HQI bulbs, otherwise the coral bleaches and dies. may be it would work with algae

thanks for the great advice!

i am sooooo going to get those power strips!

i don't understand the logic behind this(no offense); all of the salt is already pre-mixed, this would be like saying if you eat half of a cookie first, and wait to chew it first, then you eat the second half it will be different in you stomach. just saying.

if it does work i will for sure be confused

Here is what is left after making 5g of water (aprox. 2 cups of salt) It was alot worse this is just whats left I had to use the water to rinse GFO/carbon and I tried to pre filter.

i have this happen with my kent also, to be honest the few times i saw it on the surface, i thought to myself that it must have been some residue from somewhere else, so i just dumped the bucket and rinsed it, it didnt happen again. my hunch, now that we are on the same page, is that it is something in the salt itself, and that it isnt that big of a deal. but if you call kent let me know!

lets do a little chemistry review: Cold water has a lower capacity to hold salt and other elements in an aqueous solution, thus if you put in the amount of salt for x amount of water @80 degrees then you put the same amount of salt in the same amount of water@ 40 degrees, there will be more undissolved particles floating around until you hit that higher range. i find this happening with my kent when i have cold water, when i put a heater and a power head in over night( which you are supposed to do anyways with kent so that the ph settles), the water is clear the next morning when the water is warm.

for 399 you could buy a nice used setup off of the forum/craigslist...

share the love

i have a 40 gallon that is 15"x36.

its a nice tank, it is setup in the back as a reef tank, easily adaptable for a sump. let me know.

they are good! where the actinics on hen you took those pix?

just since we are on this thread: how do you guys care for your copperbands?

i'll take both of the last two pics

what is the filtration on it? i may be interested in the filter

picked up a ballast from salty,

thank you

i need 2x 250 MH bulbs

2 reflectors, and 2 sockets