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Gabe

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Posts posted by Gabe

  1. Thanks, I have a bunch of rock that has been in the sump for a while. With that I will be killing maybe 20% or less.

    Shane addressed another concern I have. I want to remove about an inch of sand bed also. I was thinking of sucking it out running a siphon through 100micron filter sock to catch the sand. Any advice on that. Maybe doing a litttle at a time. Letting everything settle for a few days before taking out more.

    Thanks again.

  2. Thanks for the ideas. I am going to do a major re-aquascape. Never have aquascaped since I set up the 120 in September, just been a big pile of rocks. My plan is to kill any infested rock that doesn't have a coral stuck to it.

  3. I had to get a Harlequin to rid my 55 of them. They were everywhere, and finaly decided to start eating the zoas.(flame) When I upgraded to the 120 in September I gave the shrimp away to free my red brittle star from the sump.(clap) They are now starting to reappear.(flame) I try to pic them off as I see them. My lobo, candycane, acan, fungia, etc. seem to enjoy the live treat!(enforcer)

    Gabe

  4. Has anyone ever run saltwater through a Kalkwasser reactor?(scratch)

    My evaporation rate is not high enough to adequately dose kalk to my system when connected to my top off.

    I was thinking about using an Aqualifter to pump sump water through my reactor. This would be controlled by an RKE based on the ph level. Turn on pump when ph drops below 8.2, turns off the pump when the ph is above 8.2. The reactors output is just upstream of the ph probe, so the controller notices small changes pretty quickly. This should keep dosings small and frequent, instead of dumping a bunch of kalk solution until the controller sees the ph swing.

    The ATO would go back to being independent.

     

    Thanks for your input.

    Gabe

  5. Is anyone using an RKE to controll pumps in the wavemaker function? I would love a pair of MP40's, but $900 (nutty)(wife)(wife)(wife)...

    I have the RKE already, I have plenty of the old style Korillas, (I know they won't work well) will the new Korilla Magnums work? Any input would be great.

    Thanks Gabe

  6. I have the same size tank. For a tang, I realy like my Tomini Kole Tang, he is realy mellow, just cruises the tank munchin the green stuff. I love my Leopard wrasse "common?", I had the "South African?" Leopard wrasse, beautifull blue and red, but he just dissapeared after a month. I had a pygmy dwarf angle for a year and never had a problem with him and corals, ablolutely beautiful. RIP carpet surfer. I also have a pair of black clowns, one false perc, a one eyed yellow tang, royal grahma, and a lawn mower blenny. Just some of my favs.

    Gabe

  7. I am an electrician. If you have questions ask. There are a lot of things you can do wrong.

     

    +1... Feel free to bounce any questions this way also, I always like to see it done right the first time.

    Gabe

  8. Thanks Eric for the props. My concern with the pinout is that if it is not in the correct order with the green pair sepperated by the blue pair most hardware will not recognize the info transmition. Some newer computers will translate any order of pinout as long as there are no crossed wires.

  9. I don't believe that the cable is too long, I curently have a 96 foot home made patch cable between my router and x-box that we use for netflix. The cable is cat6, but I am not using cat6 terminations, so it should not perform any better than cat5.

    Gabe

  10. How are the ends made up on the cat5 cable? If they are not made up in the correct sequence, some equipment will not recognize the signal. Some newer computers, and other pieces of hardware will recognize miswired connections and translate. I believe the correct sequence is

    orange/white---orange---green/white---blue---blue/white---green---brown/white---brown

    Hope this helps.

    Gabe

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