Hog Head

Try and get as much ripples as you can. This may take some re-positioning because of the lip. However anything you can do with having a fan under MH is going to help particularly if you have unshielded mogul bulbs.

No, my pendants do not have any glass. The fixtures are about 11" off the water though, so I hope that is helping a little. I am off to HD to get some aluminum flat bar.

Yep on a controller. A timer should work too. You just might have your heater and fans working at opposing ends a bit. I was cooling over a 72 with 8 X t54's so there was not as much heat as your 2 X250 MH would produce.

Should I angle it toward the water slightly, or just across it?

My Remora Pro has been up and running for 3-4 weeks now and for the most part will still only produce tea colored skimate. It has made some thicker "nog" a couple of times but definitely not consistently. How much longer should it run like this?

My Urchin Pro has been up and running for 3-4 weeks now and for the most part will still only produce tea. It has made some thicker "nog" a couple of times but definitely not consistently. How much longer should it run like this?

You want to have as much air in contact with the water. So blowing along the longest dimension seem to work the best' date=' IMHO. I like to kind of ripple the the surface water a bit (think slight offshore breeze). You will notice an increase in top-off water. I set mine at coming on at 81 and off at 80 degrees. You will likely be surprised by how well it can work.[/quote']

 

I am assuming you have a controller? I don't so I was going to put them on the lighting timer. The fans are a little loud. My 90gal is virtually silent. No noise is noticeable from the overflow or fuge. The only noise I have noticed is a slight rattle from the Urchin Pro skimmer.

I use magic lube all the time =) I should say for work. I use it on the gaskets for swimming pools and on faucets and any where I need a lube that wont wash off and wont eat away at the rubber seals. great stuff dirty name =)

Will it cause the gasket to squeeze out? I ask because when I installed the bulkheads on my water barrell, I lubed them up and had problems with them squeezing out when I tightened them up.

I just bought a 4.5" eco plus fan to see if it wil help with cooling the tank. If I can get the fans to keep the temp swing to 2 degrees or less over a 10hr period (currently have a 4 degree temp swing) it will save me a ton of money on a second chiller and electricity.

So I am starting with one fan and would like some input on where to place it. Pointed at the water, cross breeze diagonally across the tank, straight back to front?

Thanks, Eugene

I am going to try some fans. It would defintitely be the cheaper way to go if it works.

There is no leak issue with the gl*******s one. I had a few of them (the 1500 and 750 if I recall well) with no issues.

Last time I build an overflow that I siliconed I had to glue it back with acrylic glue later on.

Not all brs products are born great... I have my collection of broken dosing pumps

I have the glass holes 1500 on my 120g and it works great. No leaks and can be tuned to near silent.

Glass holes overflow kits work great and there are Plenty of happy customers. There is a gasket between the the box so is completely sealed off.

I have a Glass Holes on my 40B and love it. Great customer service also. I mean ya gotta love a company that puts candy in every order!

I also have the glass holes overflow in my 150... I used the dart one... works great' date=' no leak issues! Love it!![/quote']

 

I'm using one of G-H kits now. They are really great people to deal with.............and the candy is a plus(clap)

 

I used the GH dual overflow box on a 90g and it was great. It was my first time drilling a tank and it was easy. Near silent, no leaks.

 

Gillian

 

Thank you all. With this kind of response, I am no longer worried. Now, as long as I don't talk myself into another 210g tank, I will be ordering the Dart box.

do they take in to acount ambient room temps in calculater' date=' and if you went that small as in the 1/10 youd have it run atleast twice as often with near the same power consumption, idk really know just my thoughts[/quote']

 

No, nothing about room temps. Just DT and sump volume, light wattage plus ventilated canopy and return pump/powerhead wattage. I know what you mean about the 1/10 having to run twice as long. I have thought about that also. Cost difference between the two is only about $100. My main concern I guess is a 2.63 amp draw vs a 5 amp draw.

the only reason I would say bigger on the chiller is that once your water does get hot enough for it to kick on the larger volume will meen that the chiller has to work harder to cool the water

however if you are not having the water hea tup very fast then you might be able to get away with the smaller chiller =)

I think the best thing to do will be to get the thing up and running and see how long it takes to heat up and how warm it does get.

I know someone with a 150 they have a 1/4 HP don't know if that's helps

Is it a six footer with 3 halide bulbs? If so, that sounds about right. The calculator recommends a 1/3hp unit for my 100g with a 6' Maristar fixture plus equipment.

not to sure i have never had a chiller but a 1/10hp is half of a 1/5hp would you not want to go with the bigger chiller for th bigger tank?

I am not sure. I did the calculator with the 90g using all the same equipment and it still recommends a 1/5hp unit. Like I stated above, it takes 10hours for the tank to heat up to 80-82 degrees. It seems like any size chiller is only going to kick on once or twice a day. When set at 78 it turns on at 80 and cools back down to 78. The 1/5 unit costs more and uses twice as much electricity. I don't want to spend more if I don't need too. I have a 1/3hp chiller on my 6' 100g but it is only 15" deep off of the sand bed and heats up quite fast with 3x250w Halides. It turns on several times a day. I hope it will run less frequently once the 210 replaces the 100.

I might be able to help. Let me know. PMd you.

I am trying to size a chiller for my new 150. JBJ says I need a 1/5hp chiller with the mh lights and pumps. What the calculator doesnt take into account is that the temorary 90 that has all the same equipment starts the day at 78 and 10 hours later has only reached 81-82 and this is just in the 90. The 150 will have at least 60 more gallons. I know that the weather is still getting warmer but it seems to me that a 1/10hp unit might be better. What do you think?

I have a green condy with a red foot. Cool nem. They don't need as much light as the bubble tips or LTA's so where every you put them they should be fine. Besides if they don't like were you think they should go they will just take matters in to there own hands. The first day I put mine in the tank it looked like a tumble weed until I found it a happy place (laugh). It hasn't moved since.

The green tipped nem has already moved off of the small rock that it came on and nestled into a hole on a much larger rock.

Double posted :(

 

I did forget to mention I give it a chunk of fresh shrimp or scallop once a week and target feed it some mysis or brine with the corals a couple times a week. So far so good.

I have plankton, I'll pick up some shrimp soon. Thanks.

Actualy 1 Purple, 1 Green tipped Purple and 1 Brown with a red foot. Is the nem with the red foot an LTA or still a Condy?

I would say put the rocks where you can fit them because those nems will move all over until they find the spot they like. I kept one of these many years ago under CF lights. In my experience they are very tolerant of different lighting conditions as long as you feed them. I think feeding them also keeps them from eating your fish.

Thanks. They are about 2/3 from the bottom. They are quite sticky like my pink/green tube nem. I usually feed rods plankton.

I just bought 3 purple condy's at the lfs and I was wondering if someone can help with height placement in the tank. I was thinking about mid level unless that is too high. All three are already attached to rock. I am running 2x250w Radiums about 11" off of the water. I am not sure if I will stick with the Radiums as they are a little dark for me.

2) 400w electronic galaxy ballasts with reflector socket and radium bulb(lots of life left) $100 each

2) 400w selectawatt electronic ballast with reflector socket and radium bulbs(lots of life left) $125 each

Also have lots of other equipment for sale. Will make you a smokin deal if you buy all the lights.

Might be interested in the select-a watt setup, which reflectors and how old are the ballasts.

There is no leak issue with the gl*******s one. I had a few of them (the 1500 and 750 if I recall well) with no issues.

Last time I build an overflow that I siliconed I had to glue it back with acrylic glue later on.

Not all brs products are born great... I have my collection of broken dosing pumps

I was just a little concerned with the bulkhead with a gasket passing through the glass, then a gasket then the box then the nut.

The new 150gal tank is 30" the bottom. I will have about a 4" sandbed so that will make it about 26". It looks like I will probably be using Lumen Bright reflectors. So with about a 26" depth and the desire to have a really nice and large carpet nem, which would be the recommended watt light. 250w or 400w?

I will also be getting new ballasts. I haven't heard anything about the Select-A-Watt units. I like the idea but how is the reliability when compared to the fixed wattage units?

Thanks.

I am looking at the BRS and Glass-Holes overflow boxes for my 150gal tank 48x24x30. The BRS box silicones to the inside back of the tank after you have installed the bulkhead fittings. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/sumps-and-refugiums/aquarium-overflows/aquarium-overflow-overflow-box-2400-gph.html The Glass-Holes box is a solid box that the bulkhead passes through plus the glass. http://www.glass-holes.com/3000-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh3000kit.htm

I know most you already know about these and I am just looking for input on them. I kind of like the BRS unit because the bulkhead doesn't pass through both the glass and the tank posing a possible leak issue with the bulkhead. I also like the Glass-Holes box because you don't have to worry about the silicone sealing the box to the glass failing and emptying water all over the floor because it overflowed the sump.

So what do you all Think?

Clownfish are funny' date=' by the mid part of the week most of them were trying to cram into one anemone. After some jostling over territory some of them moved into a different anemone[/size']

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see this anemone was starting to get a little crowded too!

 

 

Very cool!! They are some of the neatest fish out there with the personality they have.

Makes sense. He just edited the first post to update the price drop. Last edit was 9/19/11 on the first post.

It does now. I had to read through it a couple of times. There were a few $ changes.