Vancop

Opps forgot....on the red slime remover....I remember reading somewhere that you should use the required amount with the required water change....mainly due to the bacteria's ability to estabilish restance to the antibodic ...which in turn would cause a better resistance to an second dose if needed ?? please correct if I'm wrong ? I'm still the poly-wog to salt water !

I also have the brown hair alge looking in fuge only ....on rocks and walls ....just like you describe....I added 3 LARGE turbo's from the DT.....( 125 gal DT ) and they are actually showing a difference...I think that rules out the Cyno ??

Just a note on the side of caution regarding the use of an overflow container on the skimmer....a heads up if I can. If and WHEN the skimmer goes postal....to much flow / plugged vent / etc ...it will drain out of the cup and into the container...as you design it to. Here's the down fall. When this happens and you don't catch it, say 4-5 hrs later ( I was lucky ) and you notice a wet spot on the carpet... thats a BAD THING! not to mention the smell in the carpet / floor...and then there is the ATO that fed water into the tank and lowered the salinity as the saltwater was overflowing ever so slowly and silently out of the tank. I still have it set up this way, but am much more watchful of it then I was before. ( This actually happened after a water change ) Just a heads up and something to remember when you set it up. If it could be installed inside the sump it would be much safer. If it ever over flowed...it would be contained and no loss of water would occur.

I was new to the hobby when I bought the set-up and knew nothing about copper and its destructive values when I bought the system, and was only told of it's use as I was leaving when I asked questions regading using carbon in the canister filter. I believe the direct quote was, " you are going to want to run copper pretty heavy for a few weeks to remove the copper that was in that system, but it will go away". And yes, the rocks ( 80 lbs ) came with the set-up. I used new sand as I was told the old sand was no good. I believe it was a fish only tank as no mention of corals was made in the purchase. As for the UV...I have read quite a bit regarding its use, and I can't explain in terms that would make since....basically it kills the live bacteria's that alage's thrive on. Would some good bacteria be killed in the process...most likely, however, all that I have read indicates that the benefits outweigh the bad, so its an option at this point. The high silicates are creating a brown alage / diatom problem in the tank. Walls and equiptment get covered pretty heavily after about 1 week if not wiped daily. This is not related to my copper problem..or inability to keep corals, just and added nusiance. I dosed the Iodide again last night and not alot of difference this morning, but they are still about 1/2 open which is a plus in my book! The Xenia is still not happy, but I moved her a few days ago so allowing some adjustment time. The RO water is still an option, but not sure its needed a this point yet. I hate the idea of having so much waste water, and my well water tested perfect for no PO4...not even a trace. I am waiting for a chance to get to town and going to have Addy Labs do a more accurate test of my water. Once I saw the copper levels in my tap water it started to concern me. I had 80% of the pipe and a new pump and motor installed about 2 yrs ag0 ( over 600 feet of pipe !! ) wondering if this incident caused a change in my water quality. I was thinking a few days ago and remembered that the pump people infomed me that I have standing water in the well at approx 16 feet....and if the well is 760 feet deep, then my water is a mix of the substrate for the entire depth? Journey to the Center of the Earth pops up!!

First off....Thanks all for your assistance and support !! I received the test kits ...Seachems copper tests kit, as well as a new silicates test kit, and performed numerous tests...to include the 90 gal ( which is known to have had copper ) my Tap water ....Water from the DI and the water in my 125 gal ( filled with the DI only water. the results... 90 gallon trace amount ...meaning reading was 0 but water clarity was not as good as the DI water tested. highest end of scale on silicates 25+ 125 gal 0 and clear water quality highest end of scale on silicates 25+ Tap water lots of copper !! verry dark blue color +25 silicates DI water from Tap .....0 copper crystal clear clarity +25 silicates My opinion / suggestion .....stopped washing filters in tap water .....considering a UV light to assist with silicates ( thanks Woody for suggestion ) and the 90 will become a FOWLR tank. The 125 tank is testing good water ...and I think I might...just might have found the solution to the FS / Xenia delimia... Iodide.....not Iodine....I added good dose of Iodide to the tank a few days ago...the the FS is half open...more then it has been in a month. Fingers crossed! Special Thanks to Sea Horse for donating DI water for me to start Flushing " my tanks with. And to all for the advise !! Will contiinue to update

LOL....nice one ....just hope I never have to provide that disclaimer !!

COOL....that means it would fall under the Domestic Violence Laws ....and I would actually have somthing to contribute to the forums with, rather then always asking questions !....I have a nice set of Chrome Rachet Style Smith/Wesson handcuffs that I'm willing to frag off to anyone ?? sometimes I kill myself !!! Its spring and the Alage is a growing people !!!

Not familar with that specific pump, but sounds like the introduction of air is causing an imbalance....check the bushings that align the impeller front and back...does it make a rubbing noise when air in injected?? maybe a section of the impeller is worn and causing the imbalance once less friction is introduced? Once air is allowed in, IMO this allows the impeller to spin more freely as the actual weight its pushing is less. I have a Mag 350 canister and was having similar issues.....keeping air bubbles out.....it ran fine...but once I replaced the impeller...it did much better....no sounds of imbalance...just a worn impeller.

Copper test kits are enroute....if the kits test 0 copper....is it safe to say the problem is not copper related? I thought i understood that copper will be an issue at levels lower then what these kits can test for??

I spoke with Issiac today and he provided me with lots of possibilities.....so far I am waiting for a Copper test and will do some water changes with his water and start from there..will also introduce the poly fiber when it arrives....he was out of both...and to far to drive all over Portland in the time frame I have during days. He also provide me with some powdered Heavy Metal remover and will give it a go.....but all things in sequence. I will keep all updated.

Thanks for the advice..lots to look at but it seems to be pointing back to a commn denominator....copper or heavy metals. As I mentioned I am off a well thats 750" deep and I'm at 1700 feet elevation....so my water supply is way above that of the city's water..I had my water tested for Nitrates and Phosphates from the tap with 0 results in both.....that being said, I was informed that I would not need a RO system but would definetely need a DI system. I had my RO/DI system modified ( LFS advised ) were the RO membrane was removed and DI only with a pre filter used. This has been installed on my ATO and what I use for water changes approx 3 weeks into this tank. I lose about 1-2 gallons a day in evaporation. As to the 90 gallon...at this point ...I will get some of the recommended media and see what it shows regarding copper or metals in the water....The snails.....I know there not starving as there are usually diatoms every few days accumulating on the walls....I have a feeling they are subject to a slow poisioning as mentioned. I will be going slow and just might take a water sample in to a local lab for metal testing....straight from the tap. Here is another observation I have been watching.....I have another tank, that has finished cycling ...a 125 gallon DT with a 55 gallon fuge and 55 gallon sump that has completed its cycle. I cycled it with no lights and no fish.....the water was straight from the DI tap....same salt...and the rocks were " nuked" prior to placement. Nuked meaning heavy bleach soak for a few days...then several water changes ....then a baking soda soak for days ...then a drying peroid ( learned this from another forum ) The sand was new and the skimmer has not been running. I installed the lights about 2 weeks ago and lit it up.....the diatoms came as expected ....but not really bad. I placed a small clean up crew..snails / crabs into the tank....the water today tests perfect...almost an exact match to the 90...except no nitrates...after a week....and still some diatoms in the tank.....the turbos are in shut down mode( after a good week of heavy cleaning )...same senerio as in the 90 gallon tank. I also moved the frog spawn into this tank...and it hasn't opened....I bought a CoCo worm ( told was ok ) and it came out for about 30 minutes ....4 days later it died. Currently there is a small clown and a sailfin tang ( who i never see eat ) in the 125 tank. So the only difference in these two tanks are ....the 125 was started with DI only water....not tap like the 90 was. the 125 has a Halide system...830 watts total...the 90 has 6X54 324 watts....the rocks in the 125 were totally nuked....WHITE rocks....no life on the rocks....basically base rock. But...the FS is not opening ....and the snails showing same symptoms as the 90.....there must be a water problem from the source......I agree...copper...silicates...??? I am thinking I should get the RO unit back up and running ?? Does the RO part of the unit assist with this issue.....was told the DI would be sufficient ?? Was told to change the DI media after about 500 gallons of use?? I will be adding the poly media this week. I know I'm, going a little fast...but due to some circumstances beyond my control...I am intentionally pushing the envelope a little here, and am willing to suffer the consequences. Just trying to keep it at a minimum. The tanks are used as a Therapy tool for my 42 yr old wife who is recovering from several strokes ...and the prognosis of the condition is terminal. So yes I am going a little fast, but I have seen faster with better results. This whole process is causing her to " think, plan, maintain and manage" which as you all know require alot of work. This is her life now as she is permantly disabled and cannot return to work of even drive. But she is happy with it...and enjoys the adventure. Thanks again for the help....all is appreciated.

Thats how I understood it ....I know the test kits will not go low enough...but maybe it will give me a better answer if copper is present.....before I decide which route to go from here...and least expensive way to start for now. I will not introduce any more livestock coral/fish/invert until this is resolved.

I do....and I was clueless to copper when i bought the tank....and I explained to the store when i bought it whats its purpose was ...REEF /FISH The final instructions as I was leaving was ...oh..this tank had copper in it...so use lots of carbon for the first few weeks and that will remove it. Not saying the store ...unless its in a PM and it wasn't CHorse. ( only mention that name as I have mentioned them before and don't want any negative towards them )

CA20R just ask the LFS for Poly Filter ??

Math...Someone say Math ??? this is suppose to be a HOBBY!!! Grrrrrrrr Hates Math!!! I'll post results .....gonna be a few days befoe I can get a test kit...and have a water change schedued in a few days...will do the testing after the change. 30% W/C

Have lots showing up in the DT..spill over from inside the Fuge ....these gonna be a problem?? This is on my 125 tank...5 weeks old ??

Copper Testing is #1 priority at this point ...I will post the results .... Thanks All for the Advice !! I will get a copper test kit....just for kicks...and will try the poly filter for a better margin test. Is called Poly filter ??

If the Crabs are surviving ...some been there since Jan.....would there still be sufficient copper to cause an issue ??

Very good point!! TY I try to remove the snail when I'm sure they are dead ....but I know there are some I can't get to. Starting to make perfect sence now .......not to happy with the people who sold me the tank ...knowing this would be an issue ..

Going fish only won't be so bad really.....I have a 125 gallon DT that is 5 weeks old and going SLOW on this one.....was a used system...and I took the time and nuked the rocks .....2 weeks time to be exact.....I can add the corals from the 90 to it over time ...and make the 90 a fish only I suppose. I will be testing it for copper soon i suppose.

Replace the rocks !!! think i'll research the copper media first .....then have a talk with the LFS I bought the system from!!

Could a trace amount of copper be the Problem ?? Does it affect the Corals that much ?? Thanks for the info about the copper media....I run the GFO to control the PO4...for algae control .....and haven't run carbon for a week now.....to help stabilize the iodine levels. If this is all due to Copper ...I reserve my comments !

It was the tank and rocks ....learned this as I was loading the system into my truck....I replaced the sand ....but used the same rocks.

The China Hat snails live, but are veryslow to move around .....the Turbos do fine for a week...then sit and act like they are trying to crawl out of their shells ?

I am going to add red slime remover as its starting to spread more....and have a 30% waer change already waiting...then going to every other day feeding.....as for Macro alage in sump.....no room ......I added a 30 gallon HEX tank as a fuge and fought with the lighting for weeks to get it to grow.....lighting was the issue ....I will be adding another fuge soon, when i can afford a 20 gallon Plexiglass. for Now it GFO reactor to coontrol the PO4....and my NItrates seem to be in a Normal area in comparrison to most tanks I thought ?