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MadReefer

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Posts posted by MadReefer

  1. I usually hear about refugiums being a small section of the sump, but mine is almost twice the water volume of the display. Is anyone else out there running an oversized refugium?

     

     

    I wish I was. Space and money limit mine. My fuge takes up most of my sump though. If I ever have space for a fish room I will have a very large fuge.

  2. Dont do it!!!! I just spent the last 3-hours picking it from some of the rocks in my DT. I got a small piece on a frag about a year ago' date=' and now I spend hours and hours every week and every water change trying to eliminate it. It is extremely difficult to get rid of. The roots will get into all the rock crevices and take hold. Its got me so ticked off, Im just about ready to start over from scratch.[/quote']

     

    Maybe I have not ever had this type of caulerpa. My caulerpa is easy to remove completely. If I miss a little it takes a few weeks before it is even a little noticeable and it can be completely removed with another try.

  3. nasty stuff imo. Hard to get rid of once established' date=' tends to go sexual in tanks then crashes and releases all the nutrients it has been absorbing back into the tank. If you are looking for decorative algae go for halimeda, or sea grasses. If you want it for filtration cheato is very popular, but not one i would put in the display, since it grows fast and would take over[/quote']

     

    I have heard this many times. I've seen people with fear of caulerpa. But I've never seen these problems first hand. I've kept caulerpa in my display for over a year with little to no problems. Recently my fish have eaten it all so I can't keep it in the display for long anymore. (sad)

  4. If you want the most life you will want to get uncured live rock and pick it up the same day the LFS gets it in. You don't want it sitting around in there LR curing tanks. I've never seen a LFS cure rock the way I do at home. You might find better rock online but I wouldn't buy rock from Florida. My premium fiji rock from liveaquaria.com had all kinds of life when I got it.

  5. First, before you do anything, make sure your test kits are correct. To drop calcium, stop your reactor and dose just the alk side of two part. Dose daily and keep watching your numbers until the calcium comes down to your target. Then start your reactor again. Calcium reactor dosing, and coral uptake, can only be done in the proper ratios. Either you added something (calcium sup), or your salt could be high in calcium. What are the numbers of your make-up water?

    It takes a lot of mag supplement to raise. Here is a good review of how to make your own:

    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-07/rhf/index.php

    Try to keep mag at around 1,300. There are calculators that tell you exactly how much to add to get to your target.

    What are your numbers?

     

    Kshack said it best. No water change needed, just adjustment by dosing. I thought adjustments needed to be done with cal reactors anyway becuase it is not always the same use on cal and alk that the reactor gives out.

  6. 4 days is fine. They would probably be fine for two weeks if your reef is healthy. I read about someone trying to make a reef that didn't need water changes or feeding and it lasted, I think, two months before fish started dieing.

  7. Attempting a more concise write-up of my tank

     

    This tank has had some salt water in it since about 8/31/2009. I know many ways that I would like to make this system better but I am VERY happy with it considering how much money I have spent. Someday I might have more money and be able to set it up the way I really want.

    180 Gallon glass used tank. I resealed the whole tank and built a coast to coast overflow with black acrylic. It still has towers in each corner but with a coast to coast piece that stretches between the towers.

    I have one of each Koralia 2, 3, and 4 for additional flow. I would like more but that is what I have now.

    My live rock is: 50 pounds of new Utah rock (LBTR); 45 pounds of new Fiji base rock; 45 pounds premium Fiji rock that is two years old; and 40-50 pounds miscellaneous rock that I accumulated over the years.

    I guess my sand is about 200-300 pounds of fine Utah oolite sand.

    I have 3x 250 watt stealth heaters, one in the sump and two in the back of display.

    Lighting: 1 250 watt basic Odyssea fixture; 1 Corallife 216 watt (4x54) T5 and I’m not sure of the bulbs but 2 daylight and 2 actinic; 1 Odyssea 3 foot 4x T6 HO fixture with 3 daylight and 1 actinic.

    Sump is a Rubbermaid tote that is 55 gallon total volume. I have a Remora Pro skimmer with a mag 9 pump. Chaeto fills most the space with room for one Maxi-jet 1200 for extra flow and 2x Rio HF 12 for returns. Also I have a maxi-jet 900 or 1200 pumping water to the mangrove bucket. The mangrove bucket is a 7 gallon bucket. It is about ¼ full of sand and has about 14 mangroves that are growing nicely. The drain is placed about half way up the side of the bucket. The mangrove bucket is in the window and gets a good amount of sunlight. The sump has a 65 watt CF spiral twist bulb over it; I think the spectrum is about 6500K.

    I built the stand myself out of 1x pine, wood glue, liquid nails, and coated with outdoor polyurethane.

    I connected two 5 gallon buckets with bulkheads and plumbing for an ATO reservoir that drains to a float valve drilled onto the side of the sump.

    I use BulkReefSupply.com #1 2 part mix at about 100ml per day.

    And that is about it.

    I will have to detail livestock later.

     

    fishstuff067.jpg

  8. Wow your the opposite of me. I'm planning on using 4 400w MH and almost 400w of actinics over my 180g when it goes up...(laugh)

     

    This really isn't the plan but I spent all of my money on the tank, new rock, powerheads and such and it will take that same amount of money just for the lights I want. I still want a bigger skimmer, I want to build a sump, and a calcium reactor would be great. I can't complain to much though, as is it is doing better than I had hoped.

  9. I have 180g with about 30g of water in the sump. I have a 5g mangrove bucket that helps keep temp down in the summer but also cools the system down a little too much in the winter. In Utah the air is dry so a cooler is not needed in the summer but it can make the temp in the tank drop extra fast in the winter. I use 3 250watt heaters and the temp has been 74-76. It did drop to 73 one day so I added plastic to cover part of the window next to the tank and it's back to 74-76. The air in my apartment is set to 70 I think, maybe 72, it's old. The outside temps have been between 5-40 for the last month.

     

    Edit- my lights don't heat up the water too much. I need more light. I only have one 250MH and ~350watts of T5.

  10. 1-3 degrees is great. 4-6 is getting somewhat bad. Anything over 6 is probably pretty stressful, especially if it happens everyday.

    I have mine set to about 75 and it goes from 74-76 and I'm really happy with that. In the summer is was 76-79 about.

  11. Stability is most important. It is possible to do too many water changes. I think your numbers are fine except nitrates are a little high and mag could be a touch higher. If I were you, I would add some macro algae and wait to add more corals. Double check temp swing and have someone else verify your tests.

  12. Chaeto will use phosphate as long as it has nitrate, iron and some other things needed to grow.

    Zoas and other corals should use a little as well.

    Chaeto and mangroves help me keep phosphate next to zero.

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