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Sol

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Posts posted by Sol

  1. anyone have pressure gauges on their RO units? if so what is your inlet pressure reading' date=' and where is your location?[/quote']

     

    I do. I get about 70 PSI at the filter. I'm in SW Portland. As I understand it "typical" household pressure is 60.

     

    To the original poster, my source water TDS is 30 and after RO is 2-3. So you're right on track. When it creeps past 10 or so, you should replace your membrane.

  2. A pH swing is normal, as corals stop photosythesizing and let out CO2 at night, which turns into carbonic acid and lowers the pH. However, it's usually a swing of .3-.4; a .9 swing is probably unhealthy and should be dealt with.

     

    One thing that helps is running a refugium with macroalgae on a reverse light cycle, as the macroalgae will uptake the co2 and produce oxygen.

     

    -Sol

  3. monochloramine is a charged ion, so they'll get taken out by your DI. Yes, it'll use up your DI faster than having nothing at all in the water, but there's nothing "special" about it that will work the DI harder than any other ion the DI removes.

     

    I think in terms of cost-effectiveness, using up the DI resin a tiny bit faster is much cheaper than investing in one of the special carbon chloramine remover prefilters. FWIW, I have the color changing DI, and change it out when it changes color--much less often than every 12 months, more like every 24-30. That's at an average of about 25 gallons a week, between top off and water changes.

     

    I'm not sure if you're mainly worried about working the DI too hard, or about have chloramines in the produced water. Either is really a very low-probability issue, IMO.

     

    Edit: I'm being tired and stupid, and am wrong. Monochloramine is not a charged ion, and will not be removed by DI. Carbon is neccesary to remove it (or alternatively, some reducing reaction). I guess the question, then, should be when the carbon reaches saturation point, and whether it's worthwhile to filter it. Personally, I'm of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", and am not seeing any signs of chlorine toxicity in any aquarist's tanks (that I know of), and so don't see a need.

     

    -Sol

  4. Fair enough. 2 12-3 with ground would have been four circuits though, not 2. In 12-3 w/ ground, you have 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground. The two circuits each use one of the hots, and they share the neutral. So 2 runs of that, would be 4 X 20 amp circuits. The 240 volts makes sense though. You using 240 V ballasts, or what?

     

    -Sol

  5. Very nice Shannon.

     

    Out of curiousity, why did you run a 100 amp sub-panel rather than a couple of 20 amp circuits? 2 lengths of 12-3 with ground (giving you 80 amps of circuits total) would have been much cheaper than 1-3 with ground+a subpanel...

     

    Just wondering if there was a reasoning that I'm missing.

     

    If you want help with anything, let me know.

     

    -Sol

  6. I'm going away for a couple weeks (August 5th to 24th or so), and while I have a tank-sitter, she's pretty inexperienced. So, I'd like a couple emergency contacts to help her out with unforseen problems. Basically, you'd have to either talk her through solutions over the phone, or come help out, in the case of an emergency.

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    -Sol

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