dsoz

I helped Wegotjs (on this forum) drill the back of his old AIO. I think it was a nanocube. We did it a few years ago. I know it is possible. You may want to message him if you have any questions.

dsoz

A little bit of black paint would change the wood trim... Just saying.

dsoz

I can't send you a message because your mailbox is full.

yes, it is 8 bulb 39w, 36 inches. It fits perfectly over a 40b tank. It includes legs ($80 value if new). I also found the hardware to hang it if you want.

It will need new bulbs within 6-12 months.

$100.

dsoz

bump, bump, bump.

I have the PERFECT rock for you. It is HUGE! It is just over 40 lbs all by itself. It took up about half of my 75g tank. A big tank needs a big centerpiece rock.

No need to drill and rod your rock if you have a perfect rock to start with.

I will sell it at $2/lb. That is a steal compared to what you would pay in a LFS. Ha ha.

send me a PM if you are interested.

75g tank, stand and hood $100. It has PC lights in it, most work, but some were not working and I did not try to figure out why. They can be easily removed and replaced with whatever you want.

Fill it with "real" live rock for $2/lb

Or Man-made concrete rock for $0.50/lb

I also have pumps, powerheads, skimmers, sand, etc. Very cheep. Everything must go. If you don't like the price, make me an offer that I probably won't refuse.

Pretty soon it will all go to craig's list.

I am moving across the country in about a year, and selling off everything.

Sending a PM to you

dsoz

did you use an underwater camera?

dsoz

one tank sold, the other one still available.

dsoz

Phosphates can come from anywhere. At one point, the dry base rock was once live rock under the water. Now it is probably been lifted out of the ocean and part of some hill or mountain somewhere... Either way, there used to be life associated with the rock. Once the life died off, the organic component still remained, and can be a source of phosphate.

"Cooking" with muriatic acid is not a good solution. It does nothing for the phosphate, and it does dissolve the carbonate in the rock. But if you do want to try it, you can get muriatic acid at a place like Home Depot. I saw it in the garden area, but ask one of the workers to help you find it. It came in a box of two bottles, each a gallon (looks like the two gallons of milk that you can get in a box at Costco). BE CAREFUL with muriatic acid. It is nasty, can cause severe burns, will make you blind if it gets in your eyes, and if you breathe in the vapor will cause respiratory problems (burns your lungs). It will also "acid wash" your clothing. That style went out in the 80's...

Bleach would kill off any life, but would not affect the phosphates that are soaked into a rock (probably in the form of inorganic calcium phosphate). Overall, I think it would be a bad idea to bleach a rock to remove phosphate.

Soaking in fresh water and changing the water frequently would be the best way to remove phosphates from a rock. "The solution to pollution is dilution." Dosing with sugar/vinegar/vodka/bio-pellets would be a second way to do it (make sure to use a good skimmer to remove the organic from the water). Using GFO (but not a massive dose, just use a small/normal amount and change it frequently... every couple of days) would also be a good way to go about removing the phosphates.

dsoz

When you dose your alk, does it make a white cloud in the water? If it does, than you are only removing the calcium from your tank and possibly LOWERING your alk as well. The recipe for BRS two part is very concentrated so it precipitates easily.

When I was dosing BRS two part I would dilute about 100 ml of the alk into a gallon of RO/DI water and add it that way. Then I would not get precipitation (the white cloud) forming in my tank.

Good luck with your dosing.

dsoz

I have over 100 lbs of "real" LR for sale at $2.00/lb. It is in a tank of salt water, powerheads and a skimmer. There are small feather duster tube worms growing all over the rock. It looks really good. You could get as much or as little as you want.

I also have over 300 lbs of "man made" concrete rock for sale at $0.50/lb.. Most of it is really porous and light. You could also get a few pieces of this if you wanted.

I live in Oregon City, but work in Woodburn. I could meet you after work some day if you want. I could take the rock in a tub of water and store it inside while I am at work.

Send me a PM and I will give you my phone number.

dsoz

The hood itself is 11" tall (outside dimensions). But it looks like you may already be on the track of getting a new one. If you want to talk about my hood, just send me a PM.

Sorry I was late getting back, I was at a funeral all day.

dsoz

I have one. It is a "woodie special" from Seahorse. It currently has PC lights in it, but you can take them out and put in whatever you want.

I was selling the 75g tank/stand/hood all for $100. If you want the hood separately, let me know and we can work something out.

dsoz

Sodium hydroxide 2n or 3n concentration. My own blend aiptasia x. I have some if you need it. I prefer it to kalk because you can use. Lot because it disassociates into sodium and water. Works well' date=' I call it under water fire[/quote']

 

It does not dissociate into water... It makes sodium and HYDROXIDE, which is a strong base. It may not mess with alkalinity, but it does mess with pH. Probably not a lot because you are using mL in a huge tank, but it can still swing the pH up a little bit. (sorry, the chemistry teacher had to jump out here to prevent the spread of misinformation.)

 

 

dsoz

I have a 3foot, 8 bulb TEK light that fits perfectly over a 40b tank. All the lights still work (they are a little old and will need to be replaced soon).

$100.

It comes with legs (cost $80 new) and a plastic splash guard.

dsoz

Sent a PM. I have just what you are looking for.

I am in Oregon City.

dsoz

I have over 100 lbs at $2/lb. Get as much/little as you want. I am in Oregon City.

It is covered with small featherduster tubeworms. Fully cycled and cured. It is from a tank breakdown.

dsoz

Tanks still available. I need them gone soon.

dsoz

I just needed to know that you were willing to consider a larger tank. Here is the wood trim tank

I don't have a photo of the black trim tank right now, but it is in the process of being broken down and cleaned up. It is not pretty looking at the moment, but I will try to get a photo before the end of the day.

I was hoping for the cash but would think about a trade. Are those noise-canceling headphones or just over-the-ear?

dsoz

I have a 75g tank and stand for $100. Actually there are two of them. One is black trim and black stand with a home-made overflow, drilled for drain and return.

The second is wood trim with wood colored pine stand with a pine hood that has some PC lights (some are not working and I have not looked into why).

It is not a nano-cube, but they are cheap.

dsoz

I just sent an email offering to donate about 100 lbs of man made concrete rock. Maybe they will take it.

dsoz

? What exactly does kalk dripping do

 

HTC EVO

It increases the amount of calcium that is available to the tank. Coraline algae (and stony corals) needs calcium in order to grow. The more calcium in the water, the faster it grows (to a point).

Kalk dripping (or a kalk reactor) just means that there is a slow introduction of kalk 24/7. Dosing means that the calcium level is constantly going down until you add more in a large bunch once (or twice) a day. Either way, the amount of available calcium is increased.

Kalk is great for maintaining an already high calcium level, but it is not as good for increasing the level because it also changes the pH of the tank. If you add too much, the pH goes all whacked out. It is also great if there are not many corals sucking up the calcium in the tank.

If there are too many corals, or the calcium level is too low, then a 2-part solution of calcium and carbonate is a better method of adding calcium.

dsoz

I have a half gallon container of Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide) that I will never use. I can sell it to you for cheap. Let me know.

dsoz

I have done a lot of research, and already have a QT ready for setup when its time to introduce my first fish. With coral dips, what would you guys recommend as a good brand/s to get? As for the plan... I do like gobies and hope to do a pistol shrimp combo (30g tank). As for coral types I'm not sure at all.

 

I thought purple up is just a calcium supplement and there is no actual algae in it to seed a sterile tank. I have to introduce it to the system with something. Coral frags probably have some on the plugs. Snails could even have it on their shells.

Most snails do have it on their shells. Especially larger turbo snails.

But they can also carry other things. One member on here thought that he got ick from introducing new snails with out putting them in quarantine first.

You always get some bad with the good.

I have seen aptasia come from coral plugs.

dsoz

Thank you for the advice. I knew about purpleup being not being practicable vs kalk or 2part. I used a quickstart bacteria supplement and skipped waiting for shrimp decomp by adding small amounts of an ammonia solution. I was looking for good sources (aka pest free) to seed pods/algae. I didn't think to simply ask to borrow a purple laden rock and put in front of my power head. I did do an ac110 refuge mod for chaeto and pod sanctuary.

I didn't plan for any fish to start with so don't worry, although what kind of frags should I look at?

What is the eventual goal of your tank? Whatever the goal of your tank is should be what you start with. Many say to start with softies, but I don't like that idea. Many softies (leather corals) secrete toxins into the water that make it harder for stony corals to take hold and grow.

If you like LPS, start with a hammer or frogspawn. Count each head as a coral. One to three heads would be fine. If you like colored sticks, get a monti digi or a monti cap. Even a staghorn or a pocillopora would be fine. Just go slow and keep it simple.

Here is a good article by Eric Borneman. He was a guest speaker for our club a few years ago. Scroll down until you see "Myth 15: Concepts about Nitrification, Stocking Orders, and the New Tank" then read it all. Many good suggestions. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/index.php

Don't try to get a clam or anamone until you have had at least 6 months success with growing coral and keeping one or two fish alive. Remember to quarantine your fish so that there is no ick from the start. It is easier to keep it out than to get it out once it is in there.

dsoz