nyciachef Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Ok so I’m at a loss, 80g system 60 gallon display 20g sump bm curve skimmer, about a week ago I got a wicked green algae bloom, my tank is super cloudy and neon green. I’ve changed 40g in the last 3 days, I’ve changed my photo period, my spectrum, turned off my fug light, clean my filter socks daily. My nitrates are near zero, phosphates are low, everything else seems to be ok but yet here we are. Any ideas? I’ve added algae fix, Red Sea no3 control, and conditioner. I’m out of ideas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisriverfisherman Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I'm guessing a uv sterilizer is gonna be needed. Been a while since I been in the hobby so don't take my word for it. I'm sure others will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertareef Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 2 hours ago, nyciachef said: Ok so I’m at a loss, 80g system 60 gallon display 20g sump bm curve skimmer, about a week ago I got a wicked green algae bloom, my tank is super cloudy and neon green. I’ve changed 40g in the last 3 days, I’ve changed my photo period, my spectrum, turned off my fug light, clean my filter socks daily. My nitrates are near zero, phosphates are low, everything else seems to be ok but yet here we are. Any ideas? I’ve added algae fix, Red Sea no3 control, and conditioner. I’m out of ideas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I know of a few members on here that have had issues that ultimately related to the quality of their RO/DI water being used in topoff and/or water changes. Turns out, if you are in PDX (or have a water source that uses chloramine) you can get an ammonia spike in your RO/DI water as your resin gets depleted. You won't see this in your TDS readings and, since most folk don't test for ammonia after the initial cycle, you probably won't catch it in you routine testing. Unfortunately, algae love it. I would suggest testing your RO/DI source water (assuming you are using it and not just treating tap water with prime or similar). UV will definitely help with the water borne bloom. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nyciachef Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 I know of a few members on here that have had issues that ultimately related to the quality of their RO/DI water being used in topoff and/or water changes. Turns out, if you are in PDX (or have a water source that uses chloramine) you can get an ammonia spike in your RO/DI water as your resin gets depleted. You won't see this in your TDS readings and, since most folk don't test for ammonia after the initial cycle, you probably won't catch it in you routine testing. Unfortunately, algae love it. I would suggest testing your RO/DI source water (assuming you are using it and not just treating tap water with prime or similar). UV will definitely help with the water borne bloom.I am going home to test my water right now. Holly crap, I’m not in pdx but Seattle area and chloramine is about the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HenryLimpet Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I had a vicious attack and nothing I did work until I used this stuff called Vibrant. Some say it did not work for them but man it sure worked for me. Its was only $30 and I still have 1/2 a bottle left as I stopped using after 2 months because my algae is gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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