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Sizing a chiller for the new 150g.


Hog Head

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I am trying to size a chiller for my new 150. JBJ says I need a 1/5hp chiller with the mh lights and pumps. What the calculator doesnt take into account is that the temorary 90 that has all the same equipment starts the day at 78 and 10 hours later has only reached 81-82 and this is just in the 90. The 150 will have at least 60 more gallons. I know that the weather is still getting warmer but it seems to me that a 1/10hp unit might be better. What do you think?

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not to sure i have never had a chiller but a 1/10hp is half of a 1/5hp would you not want to go with the bigger chiller for th bigger tank?

 

I am not sure. I did the calculator with the 90g using all the same equipment and it still recommends a 1/5hp unit. Like I stated above, it takes 10hours for the tank to heat up to 80-82 degrees. It seems like any size chiller is only going to kick on once or twice a day. When set at 78 it turns on at 80 and cools back down to 78. The 1/5 unit costs more and uses twice as much electricity. I don't want to spend more if I don't need too. I have a 1/3hp chiller on my 6' 100g but it is only 15" deep off of the sand bed and heats up quite fast with 3x250w Halides. It turns on several times a day. I hope it will run less frequently once the 210 replaces the 100.

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I know someone with a 150 they have a 1/4 HP don't know if that's helps

 

Is it a six footer with 3 halide bulbs? If so, that sounds about right. The calculator recommends a 1/3hp unit for my 100g with a 6' Maristar fixture plus equipment.

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the only reason I would say bigger on the chiller is that once your water does get hot enough for it to kick on the larger volume will meen that the chiller has to work harder to cool the water

however if you are not having the water hea tup very fast then you might be able to get away with the smaller chiller =)

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the only reason I would say bigger on the chiller is that once your water does get hot enough for it to kick on the larger volume will meen that the chiller has to work harder to cool the water

however if you are not having the water hea tup very fast then you might be able to get away with the smaller chiller =)

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the only reason I would say bigger on the chiller is that once your water does get hot enough for it to kick on the larger volume will meen that the chiller has to work harder to cool the water

however if you are not having the water hea tup very fast then you might be able to get away with the smaller chiller =)

 

I think the best thing to do will be to get the thing up and running and see how long it takes to heat up and how warm it does get.

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do they take in to acount ambient room temps in calculater' date=' and if you went that small as in the 1/10 youd have it run atleast twice as often with near the same power consumption, idk really know just my thoughts[/quote']

 

No, nothing about room temps. Just DT and sump volume, light wattage plus ventilated canopy and return pump/powerhead wattage. I know what you mean about the 1/10 having to run twice as long. I have thought about that also. Cost difference between the two is only about $100. My main concern I guess is a 2.63 amp draw vs a 5 amp draw.

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wow yeah thats quite a difference in amps >.< and thats how you blow a fuse running that with the halides, do you know how many amps your system is drawing already? that would be a big concern too, thered be two routes id go, bigger is better most of the time so i would want the bigger of the two but that would mean that changing the electrical would probably be the better choice for tbhe 20 amp circuit. or running the plumbing for the chiller to a different outlet even if possible. Do you use any fans on the halides or anything to lower temps too or just the chiller, and how precise do you plan on letting it run? with no fluctiations?

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