Jump to content

90gal OddBall Acrylic AIO


Peppie

Recommended Posts

Thought I would share my last build with you all.

This is not your typical AIO build. From my past experience with AIO tanks it seems there is not enough room in the filter chamber to grow enough Macro to make a difference. And it is always a challenge to lite that chamber and keep the light out of the DT.

So with this build I will address both of those issues.

I used 3/4'' acrylic for the DT and 1/2'' for the fuge/return/media chamber.

 

This is a rough sketch of what I will build. The far right side of the drawing is the filter chamber. It will be taller that the DT. The reason being is the return area needs to push the water higher than that of the water level of the DT, so it can gravity feed back into the DT. There will be some small changes to this drawing, but the concept will be the same.

110_2489.jpg

 

Here are some tools that I will use for the build.

110_2494.jpg

 

110_2508.jpg

 

110_2509.jpg

 

110_2510.jpg

 

110_2513.jpg

I switched the #3 for # 4 weldon

110_2515.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

The small square is dadoed into the wood block. This will keep the side panel at 90deg to the face of the other panel. The other wood stick will keep the vertical panel 1/8'' from the edge of the horizontal panel.

110_2519.jpg

 

I had cut up a tank that had a seam fail, so some of the 1/2'' material has a bow in it. You can see it here

110_2520.jpg

 

The bow is better seen here

110_2522.jpg

 

This is is how I weighted down the sides after the seam was welded

110_2523.jpg

 

I added 1/2 gussets to ALL corners to give extra welding surface

110_2525.jpg

This is the fuge/return section it is about 20'' tall X 8'' wide X 22'' long. Approx 15gal

 

My bench has been hit with an acrylic snow storm

110_2526.jpg

 

My method of welding in the gussets.

110_2528.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The divider panel, between the fuge and return needed to be in line with the sides of the chamber for a good weld seam to the DT

110_2550.jpg

 

This is how it will look welded to the DT. The eggcreat will divide the chamber into rock and Macro, The pump will draw water from the large chamber and pump it up thru filter media back into the DT

110_2556.jpg

 

110_2552.jpg

 

110_2557.jpg

 

This is what I came up with to run the maxijet pump thru the divider wall, I wanted to keep the macro out of the pump

110_2544.jpg

 

110_2543.jpg

 

110_2542.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tank will have a HOB skimmer. I wanted better skimming action than the stock inlet "skimmer" provides so I built a larger one that will clip to the back of the tank

110_2531.jpg

 

This is the box that the inlet tube for the skimmer will sit in.

110_2530.jpg

 

110_2535.jpg

 

110_2536.jpg

 

110_2537.jpg

 

I will weld these clips to the weir and hang it on the tank

110_2548.jpg

 

110_2547.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good' date=' like the work! we should get together and talk Tools! like the shop[/quote']

 

I could talk tools for most of the day. I am always finding a reason to get another good tool. The wife gets upset when I tell her I need to have two of the same tool, one for my job, and one for the shop. LOL

The shop is smaller than I would like to have, but it works for me.

Woodworking has been a hobby for me for the past 20 years. Wait til you see the stand this tank will sit on!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the set up I used to weld the sides to the front.

110_2568.jpg

 

This is the right side panel, the long lower hole will let water into the fuge. The short higher hole will let water out of the return chamber. The entire panel is 2'' taller than the rest of the DT

110_2560.jpg

 

110_2563.jpg

 

I used the pin method to weld the seams. You can see the shims under the front , added to close up the seam

110_2580.jpg

 

110_2579.jpg

 

Seams look good

110_2604.jpg

 

Bottom welded

110_2600.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the set up I used to weld the sides to the front.

110_2568.jpg

 

This is the right side panel, the long lower hole will let water into the fuge. The short higher hole will let water out of the return chamber. The entire panel is 2'' taller than the rest of the DT

110_2560.jpg

 

110_2563.jpg

 

I used the pin method to weld the seams. You can see the shims under the front , added to close up the seam

110_2580.jpg

 

110_2579.jpg

 

Seams look good

110_2604.jpg

 

Bottom welded

110_2600.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here you can see that the right side is taller than the rest of the tank

110_2602.jpg

 

have a fear of a seam going bad. So I made these corner gussets to weld to ALL inside corners of the DT

110_2575.jpg

 

I used a card scraper to clean up all the edges

110_2578.jpg

 

110_2576.jpg

 

110_2620.jpg

 

110_2619.jpg

 

welding in the corner gussets

110_2616-1.jpg

 

110_2615-1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tank will be a BareBottm tank so I made a bunch of these at different heights to keep the bottom clear of rocks

110_2595.jpg

 

110_2597.jpg

 

The tank will also have a closed loop system to flow water across the bottom. This is the rig I started with, but then changed out all the tubing to hard pvc for the final system

110_2625.jpg

 

I blacked out the divider wall with 1/4'' black acrylic. The teeth on the left is for water out of the DT. The spill way on the right is for water into the DT. The spill way will set below the DT water level to get rid of any runing water noise

110_2645.jpg

 

Here you can see the skimmer collection clipped in place and the closed loop nozzels at the bottom

110_2651.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Richard,

 

Since the acrylic is 3/4'' thick and I am going to use powerheads with magnets rated for only 1/2'' thick material, I needed to come up with a way to use the powerheads. This is what I did.

I cut a slot in the top bracing to hang the powerheads on

110_2640.jpg

 

110_2641.jpg

 

Powerhead holder made with 3/8 material

110_2992.jpg

 

110_3000.jpg

 

110_2998.jpg

 

While I was at it I made a black box with 2 compartments to house my ATO float switches. One primary and a second for back up.

The whole ATO system will be set on a timer to come on 4 times a day and stay on for 1 min. (another back up to my back up)

110_2993.jpg

 

110_2995.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So lets see this "THING" with some water in it so you all can see my vision. LOL

This is the filter end. The water from the DT enters on the top right of the Pic. The maxijet pump sucks the water from that chamber and pushes it up thru the media and back into the DT

110_2661.jpg

 

110_2662.jpg

 

The back of the tank shows the ClosedLoop pump (Quiteone 1200 @ 300gph)

110_2666.jpg

 

110_2655.jpg

 

110_2656.jpg

 

110_2659.jpg

 

110_2660.jpg

 

110_2665.jpg

 

A Stand Facelift is up next.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Dennis, impur,

 

I have been working wood for many years, so the transition to Acrylic is not that difficult. I helps if you have the correct tools to work the acrylic. Most all wood working tools will cut acrylic. The key to acrylic I have found is edge prep.

 

I will get started on the woodworking part of the build soon. It came out quite nice. Used mostly figured Mahogany!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Dennis, impur,

 

I have been working wood for many years, so the transition to Acrylic is not that difficult. I helps if you have the correct tools to work the acrylic. Most all wood working tools will cut acrylic. The key to acrylic I have found is edge prep.

 

I will get started on the woodworking part of the build soon. It came out quite nice. Used mostly figured Mahogany!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...