Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Well I have never done a closed loop or drilled before, but I am only into the tank for $175 so why not. First, I decided to use a glass-holes 1500gph overflow which will have two 1.5" drains. That brings up the first ?, what size should I run for the return? I was leaning toward an iwaki md40rxt or a snapper pump. I will have about 5-6' head pressure. Second, I was planning on using a dart for the closed loop. I am not sure what sizes to use. 2" for the suction side and 1/2"-1" for the return side? Any help designing this will be appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Thought about starting a build thread but I don't think I am ready for it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobtoSalt Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Wish I could be of some assistance. I'm sure someone on here will help you out. Plumbing these things is not my cup of tea.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Dart pumps are 2 inch suction, 1.5 return. I like to do two 1.5 inch bulkheads for suction to spread it out. For return, you can do 1-1.5 inch (not common) to as many as say like 6 if you used 3/4 inch locline. As for return pump you really need to have more of an idea the exact size to know what size you want it to be. Spray bars are easy and dont require drilling What are dimensions of tank? And glass or acrylic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 The tank is 1/2" glass by marineland. Dims are 48x24x30. Well I have never done a closed loop or drilled before, but I am only into the tank for $175 so why not. First, I decided to use a glass-holes 1500gph overflow which will have two 1.5" drains. That brings up the first ?, what size should I run for the return? I was leaning toward an iwaki md40rxt or a snapper pump. I will have about 5-6' head pressure. Second, I was planning on using a dart for the closed loop. I am not sure what sizes to use. 2" for the suction side and 1/2"-1" for the return side? Any help designing this will be appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Also I was going to place the overflow on the left or right side of the tank. Would it be more beneficial to place it in the middle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Dart pumps are 2 inch suction, 1.5 return. I like to do two 1.5 inch bulkheads for suction to spread it out. For return, you can do 1-1.5 inch (not common) to as many as say like 6 if you used 3/4 inch locline. As for return pump you really need to have more of an idea the exact size to know what size you want it to be. Spray bars are easy and dont require drilling What are dimensions of tank? And glass or acrylic? This is a good suggestion, and kinda what we talked about when you were at my place. I'd go for the 2-1.5" intakes. I've drilled several tanks, so when you are ready i'd be glad to help out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 This is my current CL set-up. On the bakc wall there are 2x 2" BH's for intake to the pump (have screens for the Bh's to keep fish and snails out) the return is in each corner 1" The pump is a 4200 something with a Hayward 3-way ball valve and a 1 rpm motor on top my version of an Ocean's Motion. There will be lots of flow with this pump. I always use to 2" BH for the suction and this is to "soften" the suction so the scales won't get stripped off the fish or the anemones getting sucked thru like meatballs It's too hard to feed the CL thru a overflow unless you pump it right even then trouble can happen , It's best to take it from the tank back wall. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 This is a good suggestion, and kinda what we talked about when you were at my place. I'd go for the 2-1.5" intakes. I've drilled several tanks, so when you are ready i'd be glad to help out. Cool, if I wanted to use the drill press I found a place that rents them plus shipping. It would be about $100 total. They are supposed to drill nice square straight holes with out chip out/damage. Do you just use a hand held drill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Yah i used a piece of wood cut with the same hole size for a guide, clamped that to the tank and drilled freehand using the guide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 It helps me alot, thanks for the pics. This is my current CL set-up. On the bakc wall there are 2x 2" BH's for intake to the pump (have screens for the Bh's to keep fish and snails out) the return is in each corner 1" The pump is a 4200 something with a Hayward 3-way ball valve and a 1 rpm motor on top my version of an Ocean's Motion. There will be lots of flow with this pump. I always use to 2" BH for the suction and this is to "soften" the suction so the scales won't get stripped off the fish or the anemones getting sucked thru like meatballs It's too hard to feed the CL thru a overflow unless you pump it right even then trouble can happen , It's best to take it from the tank back wall. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 That looks like a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Has anyone used one of these or seen someone use one? http://beckerindustries1.com/images/bm41_suction_drill__04_lg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 I have been reading quite a bit and would like some input/opinions on using a couple of MP40's vs the closed loop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Well the pros for the vortechs would be no plumbing, variable flow patterns, and ease of cleaning. Plus if you ever want to sell the tank later down the road, some people don't want holes in the back wall. The pros for the closed loop is no equip in the tank, directional flow wherever you need/want it, and maybe less power usage depending on the pump. Those are just some things off the top of my head....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef165 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 The pro's for vortex is everything, there will be just as much, well more in the tank with a closed loop with 2 supply's to the pump, and at least 4 returns, plus all the plumbing parts and pump cost allot, and the pump will prob run at about 100 watts, and yes the selling factor when/if you decide to sell the tank with holes in it, all there is with the vortex is a couple small turbines in the tank, one mp40 will be more flow than one dart, no potential for leaks down the road, and together they use what, 20 watts. to me the price for doing either is a wash, it comes down to ease of maintinance, flow, reliability, and leak factor. JM2C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 This is kind of what I have been reading on other forums. Plus I do like the idea of less holes in the back of the tank. One MP40 would be abOut the same cost as the Dart. The tank is not a cube but would it work with the vortices mounted on the back of the tank? The reason I was going to go CL was to help prevent a nem from being sucked into a power head but I guess it would be about the same as one getting sucked into the strainer on the CL inlets. Well the pros for the vortechs would be no plumbing, variable flow patterns, and ease of cleaning. Plus if you ever want to sell the tank later down the road, some people don't want holes in the back wall. The pros for the closed loop is no equip in the tank, directional flow wherever you need/want it, and maybe less power usage depending on the pump. Those are just some things off the top of my head....... The pro's for vortex is everything, there will be just as much, well more in the tank with a closed loop with 2 supply's to the pump, and at least 4 returns, plus all the plumbing parts and pump cost allot, and the pump will prob run at about 100 watts, and yes the selling factor when/if you decide to sell the tank with holes in it, all there is with the vortex is a couple small turbines in the tank, one mp40 will be more flow than one dart, no potential for leaks down the road, and together they use what, 20 watts. to me the price for doing either is a wash, it comes down to ease of maintinance, flow, reliability, and leak factor. JM2C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R-3 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 IF you are worried about price you can get a used Tunze setup with 2 pumps and the controller for the price of one Vortech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hog Head Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 IF you are worried about price you can get a used Tunze setup with 2 pumps and the controller for the price of one Vortech. I don't think I have ever seen a Tunze setup. I have two MP40's on my 100 and I love them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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