Mr S Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I want to put an auto top off valve in a sump that can't be drilled. I looked at auto top offs on the bulk reef supply page and it shows one that moves up and down and you dont have to drill it because it clamps on. It is a reefkeeper float switch kit. It has digital crud along with it. Is this a part of a big package that all plugs together or can I just use it like an old fashioned top off. In other words RO water in a bucket, line runs to float valve in sump, when water gets low RO water goes in until desired level is reached. I don't want something fancy. I saw what I wanted on Marine depot but noticed a group buy for bulk reef supply coming up. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoobtoSalt Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I Will take pictures of mine tonight. Im loving having an ato now Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergebmw3 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 well iam no expert but i have a regular Top off valve that i put inside of the sump and just did a gravity feed from a bucket and it works perfect, saved me a lot of money then buying a pump and a auto switch. If i understand you correctly then the system that you were looking for request that you get a pump that will connect to the switch and then once activated the pump will pump water in and then turn off. i never tried it that ay but it sound good as well if you have water source in another place besides your fish stand. if you want a cheap way go old school if you want to spend some money you can get the Kit and then a pump. But there are More experienced reefers here tha will be of much better help. looking forward to seeing what you end up doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanktop74 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I want to put an auto top off valve in a sump that can't be drilled. I looked at auto top offs on the bulk reef supply page and it shows one that moves up and down and you dont have to drill it because it clamps on. It is a reefkeeper float switch kit. It has digital crud along with it. Is this a part of a big package that all plugs together or can I just use it like an old fashioned top off. In other words RO water in a bucket' date=' line runs to float valve in sump, when water gets low RO water goes in until desired level is reached. I don't want something fancy. I saw what I wanted on Marine depot but noticed a group buy for bulk reef supply coming up. Thanks.[/quote'] I have the bulkreefsupply one that you mentioned on both my big tanks. It works great! Although you should see if they work under low pressure, they have a sylonoid on them so you can hook it up to the RO/DI unit directly. Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGooseWhisperer Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Could you please post a link of the 2 that you are looking at? (MarineDepot and BRS) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topher Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Sounds like the 1 I picked up from tim. Dual floats with electrical microswitches that controls the water inlet solenoid. I want to put an auto top off valve in a sump that can't be drilled. I looked at auto top offs on the bulk reef supply page and it shows one that moves up and down and you dont have to drill it because it clamps on. It is a reefkeeper float switch kit. It has digital crud along with it. Is this a part of a big package that all plugs together or can I just use it like an old fashioned top off. In other words RO water in a bucket' date=' line runs to float valve in sump, when water gets low RO water goes in until desired level is reached. I don't want something fancy. I saw what I wanted on Marine depot but noticed a group buy for bulk reef supply coming up. Thanks.[/quote'] Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newfisher Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Roger, use a 1" wide piece of acrylic 12" long, heat it in the oven at 180 for 10 min ontop of a 2x4. Pull it out and make a 1" 90 degree bend the 1" 90 bend at one end to hang over the sump. At the other end bend a step large enough to drill a 7/16 hole for the mechanical float switch. Zip tie the line to the bracket in a large loop and hang it in the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGooseWhisperer Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 heat it in the oven at 180 for 10 min ontop of a 2x4. Does this pretty much work regardless of thickness in the 1/8" to 3/8" range? Neat trick though...last time I made a bend in acrylic I used a butane lighter. It got the job done eventually, but was a pain and it looks pretty crappy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr S Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Jon I know what you are saying. I don't want to go electrical. Marine depot has one that fits in a mount bracket and the float is still water level activated but moves up and down like a cork floating in water instead of the toilet bowl type set up. Do I assume the bulk reef one needs electronics/pumps/ect. to work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReeFit Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 i've used the E-Shopps AEO19085 Float Valve. works like a champ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr S Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Robert do you guys carry them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulw Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 i've used the E-Shopps AEO19085 Float Valve. works like a champ. I use the same and it has worked flawlessly. I am a firm beleiver in simple solutions. The more complex the solution the more things that can go wrong. Electronics, switches, & pumps add needless complexity. Just use the e-shopps (or similar) floar valve and keep your Fresh Water suppy higher than your sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReeFit Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Robert do you guys carry them? yes we can order them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barelycuda Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Just a quick question Roger, why can't it be drilled??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr S Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 It is space issues Dave. I also want it more portable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunMonahan Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 When I used to set-up systems in homes/offices, in most cases I was not able to have an extra container for freshwater storage for evap top-off. I used a Liquid Level Controller (LLC) from Spectra Pure. This allows you to plumb your RO unit right under your tank/stand and turns on/off your RO which feeds directly into your sump. I personally dislike storing water as it takes up space, it's heavy, and it absorbs impurities from the air (especially RO/DI water as it's hungry to re-ionize). This LLC system is electronic and by default, it's shut off when there is no power. It works by a sensor (same vacuum sensor used in your laundry washing machine) installed in your sump at the desired water level. Once the water level drops below the sensor, it opens the valve installed in front of the RO unit allowing the water to feed through and refill sump. The down side of this system is that you'll have to plumb (2) 1/4" polypro lines, to and from your RO unit ((1) for supply, (1) for waste water). This is very easy to do, it just requires some planning/foresight. I used the 1/4" self piercing saddle values for HD/Lowes, and works on copper or soft pipe... I found this system to work flawlessly, and I installed probably around 2-3 dozen of them. It also has a mechanical float valve for safety, JIC. I find mechanical float values will fail - it's just a matter of time until they do... Like stick open... Which will flood your sump and cause it to overflow at the least opportune time (while you sleep or while you are on vacation) Or, stick closed and burn up your pump(s)/heater, etc. Here's the link and I hope this helps: http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p1.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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