Nyles Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 Well all this fuss about Tridacnid Clams, lets talk about them! I have some experience with them and curious what people are looking to gain and learn? Maybe we can get some of the simple stuff or complex out on here to get a step ahead of the game (speaker coming) maybe you need help with things regarding Lighting requirements, inspecting for purchase, disease, gaping, ID, rock removal (bysuss thread cutting), feeding? I have researched to my wits end on this before I got into the hobby and would be happy to share research info and first hand experiences. I have currently Giga's, Maxima, Crocea, and Derasa in my tank and I am looking for a few squamis. ALL and I do mean all of my clams have come from Advanced Aquarium either from me or the person I bought them from got them from him.. LOL. My first clam was a Crocea and I have had it since I got into the salt hobby. I have had to treat gapping from some new arrivals but never had a loss with clams after they make it to my tank (one bad shipping experience). Feel free to share experiences or ask questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowman Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 How do you treat the gaping thing? I have a Tiger Stripped Derasa. I lost a nice blue spot gigas after my tank sitter forgot to check the auto top off while I was on vacation a year ago. I would love to get a black maxima some day too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 I would love to get a black maxi too, but prices ranging from $150-$500 keep my money in my pocket, marine depot has one for $369, LOL. Simplest and SAFEST way to treat gapping is a 5 minute fresh water treatment, I have read of reports of 10, 15, 20 and even 30 minutes since a clam can shut down, but I just cant sit there that long knowing my clam is in fresh water. I did read of a guy that left a clam in freshwater for 2 hours on RC with NO ill effects. Worst case do multiple smaller dips, but I wouldn't put over 15 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyenna Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 what's considered gapping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 when the intake opening is very large, looks like an open or gaping mouth, usually (most clams) the mouth stays mostly closed naturally or just barely touching. The big thing is if you run your hand over the top (blocking light) and it is not responsive and pulling the mantle in. If its not very responsive then you have a problem. This is the first thing you do when you look to buy a clam (run your hand over the top). I have had clams show signs of gaping and there be nothing wrong, so don't freak out and fresh dip whenever it happens. For instance a Giga's clams mouth usually is quite open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrdph Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 I have never tried a fresh water dip on a clam. Do you just make sure the temp and PH are the same as your tank water? Are there any other parameters you check? How effective is a fresh water dip when you have a clam that is gaping? Never tried it before w/ clams. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 I had a gaping clam and dipped for 5 min. I adjusted ro/di water ph to plus or minus .1 and temp the same by floating in main tank, you can use proper ph or whatever your comfortable with. After I dipped I had no more issues, I dipped for gaping and NOT snails. I have never had issues with parasite snails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 Just don't forget that ro/di water is around 7 ph if I remember, so you will need to adjust. You can try to adjust with a large amount of water, say 5-10 gallon and adjust with baking soda. Make sure you let it circulate for a few hours first, baking soda tends to make ph drop then go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csrdph Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 Thanks for the info! I will keep this in mind for whenever I run into this problem. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 Clam ID. sizes, colors, and Please note!!! The figures for placement really depends on lighting, these assume you have proper lights for the specimen and only refer to placement in tank for instance a maxima would go up high a Derasa mid tank, and giga on the sand bed. Maxima Mantle Color/Characteristics Blue, purple, gray, brown, and yellow are common. Black specimens exist but are somewhat rare. Spotted, striped, or blotched. Patches of solid color are more common than multi-colored patterns. Shell Asymmetrical 5 very distinct ribs. Moderately defined, tightly spaced scutes. Approx. Adult Size 16" Byssal Medium to large byssal opening.Semi-rock boring. Siphon Small, simple tentacles on inhalant. Placement Preferably on rockwork. Brightly colored specimens require brighter lighting than brown ones. Brown maximas should be placed lower in the aquarium to prevent them from getting shocked by strong lighting. Blues up high. Crocea Mantle Color/Characteristics Blue, purple, yellow, green, gold, orange, and brown. Lines, spots, or blotches of yellow, blue, and green can also be seen. Shell Asymmetrical 5 to 6 moderately defined ribs. Scutes are tightly spaced but not well defined. Approx. Adult Size 6" Byssal Large byssal opening. Rock boring. Siphon Small, simple tentacles on inhalant. Placement Preferably on rockwork. Clams with bright coloring (especially blue) should be placed high in the aquarium. Derasa Mantle Color/Characteristics Wavy striped patterns or spots. Can be found in black, white, blue, yellow, and orange color combinations, but most mantles have a golden color. Some have bright green or blue lines. Shell Symmetrical. . 5 to 7 moderately defined ribs that lack scutes. Approx. Adult Size 20" Byssal Narrow/small byssal opening. Siphon Large complex tentacles on inhalant. Placement On rockwork or on sand. / low to medium Squamosa Mantle Color/Characteristics Beige, brown, or gold. Some can have blue or green blotches and some have stripes running parallel to the shell. Shell Symmetrical 4-5 large, very defined ribs. Large, sharply defined, widely spaced scutes. Approx. Adult Size 16" Byssal Medium to non-existent byssal opening. Siphon Large complex tentacles on inhalant. Placement On rockwork or on sand / low Gigas Mantle Color/Characteristics Blue, green, golden-brown, or yellow in color. Iridescent spots may also be present, especially near the edge of the mantle. Shell Asymmetrical 4 to 5 defined ribs. Juveniles have some scutes on their shells but adults do not. Approx. Adult Size Up to 4' in captivity 6' on the reef Byssal Small to nonexistent byssal opening. Siphon No tentacles on inhalant. Placement Prefer sand / low Hippopus Mantle Color/Characteristics Brown-green with some deep yellow striping. The mantle of hippopus does not extend past the shell edge as do the other tridacnids. Shell Asymmetrical and very distinct.Typically has 7 to 8 well defined ribs which lack scutes. Approx. Adult Size 14" Byssal Small byssal opening. Siphon No tentacles in inhalant. Placement On sand / low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyenna Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 any speculation on why a clam would lose some of its color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowman Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Nyles, Maybe the club should pay you to come lecture us on clams instead of the Clam direct guy. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 whats changed for the clam since it lost its color? Its usually a light issue since its usually related to loss of zooxanthellae. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Also how big is it, it looks pretty small? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronjunior Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 I didn't want to copy the info from TRT, but I read a pretty good FAQ thread the other day on the site. http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84096 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Yup Yup, as you see those are pics of some of my clams LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyenna Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 whats changed for the clam since it lost its color? Its usually a light issue since its usually related to loss of zooxanthellae. Ya, it went from MH in LFS to PC (1 month max) and now a 175W MH (2.5 months). Also how big is it' date=' it looks pretty small?[/quote'] It is really small (2.5 inches) and now you're going to say I should feed it. Ya ya, i read it all. I feed cyclopeez and marine snow. Perhaps I am in the right direction but am just too impatient to let it heal from the PC era? My clam is very responsive and poops regularly (at least, i think it's poop?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Not sure about the last part.. but watch the coloring, like you said now that you have better light it will possibly be ok, up that high and a 175 I would think as long as its not to far gone it would be ok, give it time. A clam needs good flow to get access to as much nutrients in the water as possible, the things a clam feeds on are phytoplankton, most any do ok, and from what I have read and heard the Isocrysis type seems to be the choice from biologists, also clams feed on ammonia and nitrates, and of course Need but don't feed on calcium stable alk and magnesium. What I think youre last comment was referring to was when the clam inhales closes its siphone and "burps" out the water to cleans itself. Make sure you have good flow around the clam, it will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 It is really small (2.5 inches) and now you're going to say I should feed it. Actually I wasn't going to say you should feed it. But that all depends on many things, as part of building up good liverock I routinely feed phyto (nano and just started Iso) but its not for the clam even though Im sure they benefit. If your reef is established and has decent liverock you would be surprised at how well a small clam can do, I think this is in part due to there naturally being phyto in a stabile established tank after its introduced if not hitchhiked in on rock and other things you bring into you tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 You should be feeding any clam that is less than 4". I've read it takes them getting to around that size to properly photosynthesize. Also croceas tend to gape more than others and often it isn't a problem with them. If it doesn't get back to normal after a few days, time to dip. I've had my crocea gape for a day or so then go right back to normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 Not all true , look at the 2" clams whiskey has, he has never feed them, they do fine. Then there is alot of people that think what they feed is actually being taking up by clams, and is not. The old rule of thumb was 3" or smaller need to be feed. I have had 2.5" clam that where not feed and did perfectly fine as well. Like I said if the system is established its more than likely the clam can live off the established system quite easily. I haven't really tested this theory, and really can't since I feed daily doses of phyto to my reef. I used to keep a 2" pvc pipe with me when I would shop for clams if the clam would fit in width wise It was to small. I used this rule of thumb prior to ever dosing phyto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Well ok! I got my clam at about 3" and only dosed phyto into the tank, never spot fed it and its fine as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 I corrected the statement, I dont spot feed anything but my gynopora. Donno why I typed that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefboy Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 so im ussuming gapping is caused by a infection as to why you do fresh water dip? cant stress also cause this condition and dipping may worsen or is this only caused by infection.Ive had new clams gap to be fine next day but did lose my gigas not to long ago and it was gaping so ill try this next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 Correct, Im no expert, but I think gapping is a natural part of a clams "Activity" but not for extended days or even more than a few hours at a time for most species. I also think that it can be caused by infection from some experiences I have had. If my clams get to much light they tend to bleach, if they don't get enough light they tend to start to loose their color and look more brown (suttle). Sometimes they can just look shriveled up, or the siphon is limp (all bad signs). Obviously as you stated the dipping would be for infection to try and get the infection off the clam( LOL in short). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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