AquaticEngineer Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 So in my search to find a good way to plumb my two marineland coldwater systems together I've come across some large coleman and igloo coolers. My plan is to put the cooler on a stand in between both tanks at a height that will eliminate any problems with overflowing. I'll need to drill 3 or 4 bulkhead fittings into it and I'll probably use some directional valves just in case. I can pick up one of the large coolers for about $50 - $80. I dont think I could get a similar sized extra thick acrylic tank make for cheaper. Also could potentially be a place to put more filters, probes, skimmers, calcium based live rock, etc..... I picked up 3 coolers for $40 from craigslist this weekend to use as proto-types for the larger sump. The cooler I'm going to use is a 52 QT, about 13 gallons, which is smaller than I eventually want to have. But for about $13 each I figured this would be good to use as a test sump before I drill holes in a huge expensive cooler. I'm going to plumb the lines with ball valves, one way valves, and disconnect points so that when I get the bigger cooler I can hook it into the existing plumbing. Figuring out the interior of the sump layout I'll have to spend some time on still. It'll probably be quite simple with this first one since it is a test sump. Also, since I'm not decided yet on what additional filtration to put into it yet, it will mostly be to connect the 2 tanks together. What do you guys think? Would it be worth it? Ideas? Concerns? Input? Also,where would be the best place to go and get bulkheads, ball valves, and one way valves locally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 I would go without check valves. They tend to fail. Put the returns high enough so your sump can contain all the water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted July 26, 2010 Author Share Posted July 26, 2010 I had heard similar statments and was wondering about that. I think I can just get the height of the sump up enough, and do the baffles correctly to prevent any overflows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReeFit Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 I would go without check valves. They tend to fail. Put the returns high enough so your sump can contain all the water it would be better to plumb low and use a elbow with stand pipe inside so levels can be adjusted in the sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 Do they have drain valves? If so then you may need to do something to seal them off. Most of the ice chests I've had slowly leak from the drains if they are filled with water. You also may need to use silicon or some kind of sealer on the inside unless they are smooth. (I think they usually have a little texture inside) Be careful though as using silicone on bulkhead gaskets will cause them to squeeze out if they are tightened to tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 I'm going to use the hole that the drain valve is in right now and plumb the drain back to the tanks there. It looked like it had a threaded plastic nut on the inside, so I should be able to remove it and put in a larger one. I like the idea about the elbows with stand pipes for adjusting the water height. I'll probably use that on the hole that is provided by the existing drain. That may even eliminate the need to put baffles in it, for the time being at least. The lines in will be about mid way up the side, since that is the flattest area of the cooler. Any suggestions on what size bulkheads and tube to run in and out? And where to get them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReeFit Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 I'm going to use the hole that the drain valve is in right now and plumb the drain back to the tanks there. It looked like it had a threaded plastic nut on the inside, so I should be able to remove it and put in a larger one. I like the idea about the elbows with stand pipes for adjusting the water height. I'll probably use that on the hole that is provided by the existing drain. That may even eliminate the need to put baffles in it, for the time being at least. The lines in will be about mid way up the side, since that is the flattest area of the cooler. Any suggestions on what size bulkheads and tube to run in and out? And where to get them? size is usually determined by capacity of flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newfisher Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 You could get a thermos for the skimmer drain container and a battery powered lantern for the fuge and probobly get Coleman to sponsor you! Great idea on the coolers. I would put them up high enough to keep people from "sneaking beers" when they are over. Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Let me know before you buy bigger ones, we have 100qt+, the big white ones at the store with the lids broken off, other damage during the summer that we just throw away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Let me know before you buy bigger ones' date=' we have 100qt+, the big white ones at the store with the lids broken off, other damage during the summer that we just throw away[/quote'] Heck yeah, let me know if u need someone to take that off your hands (clap) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 You could get a thermos for the skimmer drain container and a battery powered lantern for the fuge and probobly get Coleman to sponsor you! Great idea on the coolers. I would put them up high enough to keep people from "sneaking beers" when they are over. Lol The thermos idea I may just do (laugh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Here's the cooler I'm using, its an Igloo 52 qt. The drain plug came out with a twist of the nut. The area where the drain is is hard flat plastic with no insulation, it will be real easy to drill larger and add a drainage bulkhead. It also has the notches in the interior sides to slide dividers into, should be easy to put some baffles in and silicone them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted August 8, 2010 Author Share Posted August 8, 2010 well I totally f'd up the first hole I drilled on the larger cooler and cracked the inside plastic, but on the plus side, the second cooler I did came out pretty sweet Here's the sump so far, gotta get some more threaded barb fittings and the tubing. Then I can water test it and make sure its all sealed up right before I hook it up. I need to add the baffles still or a stand pipe on the return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToxicPoison Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 well I totally f'd up the first hole I drilled on the larger cooler and cracked the inside plastic, but on the plus side, the second cooler I did came out pretty sweet Here's the sump so far, gotta get some more threaded barb fittings and the tubing. Then I can water test it and make sure its all sealed up right before I hook it up. I need to add the baffles still or a stand pipe on the return. Been tagging along in the background for a while now... It's coming together nicely! Looking forward to seeing it all set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undrtkr_00 Posted August 11, 2010 Share Posted August 11, 2010 How is this coming along? I imagine you might want to have a vent hole to prevent any problems related to vacuum (if you're going to run it with the lid closed). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted August 11, 2010 Author Share Posted August 11, 2010 Yeah a vent hole will be added for sure I've put the sump on hold for a bit, I'm going to be using it at first only on my smaller tank, then eventually I'll use it to link them together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AquaticEngineer Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Here's a quick lay out of what I'll be doing I think with the sump for the second coldwater tank. The whole idea for this sump is to add some mechanical filtration with the filter sock and add biological with all of the submerged bioballs. They the solenoid valves with allow the auto feeder to circulate the food in the system for a while without being immediately filtered out. I'll be adding a loop on to the sump to plumb a skimmer into with an external pump as well. Any suggestions, comments, please add Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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