moovinfast Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 I think I want to build an inexpensive ATO. I was thinking a container next to my tank with a small pump and a float switch. Im heading to portland this weekend. Is there anywhere I can pick up the parts for cheap? Like the electric float swithches. Or should I order them from online somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 I wouldn't rely on an electrical switch. SWF has the mechanical float switches for $30 which is probably what I will buy when I get around to doing mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwcoralfarm Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I built a terribly efficient auto top off system for my tanks. I use float valves for my auto shutoffs. I have heard of people having problems before but I know me and few of my friends have been using them with no problems for years. I run straight from a freshwater inlet to a RO/DI system with a pressure gauge and into the top of a 55 gallon barrel through a auto shutoff "float" valve. From the bottom of the barrel I have an output line that runs directly to my sump through another shutoff "float" valve. It was super easy and under 50.00. I found all my valves and shutoffs from a seller on eBay that carried all of it. I can't remember his seller name but if I find it again I will repost. All of his valves and lines and everything were not only by far the cheapest I found but excellent quality as well. I found my drum from a guy on Craigslist for 20.00 who sells only reusable food grade containers like this. I had to rinse mine a few times but for the price who could complain. As you can see by the pics I built a small stand for my barrel out of some scrap wood I had laying around. This ensures I get a good gravity feed all the time. Hope this helps, probably more then you needed but I got carried away.http://www.pnwmas.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif An important thing to remember though is that RO/DI sytems work best when they can flush out their filters by a steady rush of water coming through and since you are using at most probably only a couple of gallons a day it wont get that flush. I was able to solve this by putting manual shutoff valves as well on both lines and when the tank is full I shutoff the input line and let the barrel drain about half way "about a week" then I turn it back on and repeat. This also makes sure that I always have fresh water in my barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef165 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I got a mechanical float from upscales a couple years ago for like $12 and did a gravity feed ato with a 3 gallon water storage feeding it, worked for 3 years no problems and the best thing is if there were any prob's like the float sticking open there's only 3 gallons of water going into the tank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reef165 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 NWCORALFARM on your RO/DI with the two membranes, do both of them go through the same DI cartrige? and is the second one fan off the waste water of the first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwcoralfarm Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 They do both go through the same DI cartridge. The extra membrane is actully just a filter to get rid of any funky smells, really not needed but it came with the unit so I wasn't going to complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Just make sure of two things when you install one. Make sure your sump can handle the full amount of top off water at once incase of a failure and also make sure that you salinity can also handle a failure. I can't think of any two worse things to come home to then a flood in my house or a freshwater reef tank. If you follow these two guidelines you will be happy forever. If you don't you could regret it forever... (daz) it's your choice:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dego Red Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Just make sure of two things when you install one. Make sure your sump can handle the full amount of top off water at once incase of a failure and also make sure that you salinity can also handle a failure. I can't think of any two worse things to come home to then a flood in my house or a freshwater reef tank. If you follow these two guidelines you will be happy forever. If you don't you could regret it forever... (daz) it's your choice:D I can't say I agree with that. While it makes sense that you never want to drastically skew your salinity or over flow, in terms of efficiency or usability, the ratio of your reservoir-to-tank size would almost negate any functional purpose. Granted, some people have large enough sumps, but I would say the majority of us (esp w/ nanos) don't have the space the commit. For example, I've got a 5g sump under my 30g tied to a 4g ATO reservoir. That keeps me set for about a week. But with equipment/baffles/etc, my excess capacity is probably less than a gallon. If I only kept 1/2gal in the reservoir to be sure I didn't over flow...to me there's no point. I'd still be filling it once a day! In the end, the fleas come with the dog, but there are ways around it. Such as, my setup is on a timer on my AC Jr. I have a low GPH pump that is only allowed to run for one minute, so if there is a malfunction, the damage is minimal. Then again, you could always ATO your ATO for redundancy...just in case. (laugh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowpunk Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Yea I guess that is true. I always forget about you little tank guys(laugh)j/k. My water doesn't seem to evaporate at quite the rate that others do. I use about 5g a week on a 75g with 25g(I think) sump. So refilling it once a week is nice and it won't drastically change the salinity enough to kill everything off. The sump is built so if the water goes up it fills the whole thing evenly. I could probably pour 10g in and be okay. For my next tank(plotting) I am going to try to work out a 20 to 30 gallon ATO. This may also have a SATO(semi auto top off) supplying the ATO as you were thinking. When it gets low just turn on a pump and fill it back up quickly. Oohhh yeaaa... The tank will be much bigger too though...(plotting)(plotting)(plotting) I can't say I agree with that. While it makes sense that you never want to drastically skew your salinity or over flow, in terms of efficiency or usability, the ratio of your reservoir-to-tank size would almost negate any functional purpose. Granted, some people have large enough sumps, but I would say the majority of us (esp w/ nanos) don't have the space the commit. For example, I've got a 5g sump under my 30g tied to a 4g ATO reservoir. That keeps me set for about a week. But with equipment/baffles/etc, my excess capacity is probably less than a gallon. If I only kept 1/2gal in the reservoir to be sure I didn't over flow...to me there's no point. I'd still be filling it once a day! In the end, the fleas come with the dog, but there are ways around it. Such as, my setup is on a timer on my AC Jr. I have a low GPH pump that is only allowed to run for one minute, so if there is a malfunction, the damage is minimal. Then again, you could always ATO your ATO for redundancy...just in case. (laugh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moovinfast Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 So should I look for a mechanical float valve? Are they more reliable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 So should I look for a mechanical float valve? Are they more reliable? I would say yes. I've read too many posts and talked to a few people that have had the electric switches fail after they get salt, algae, etc. on them. The mechanical float can potentially fail too but they seem to be more reliable. Another option would be a combination. Mechanical float for the primary operation with an electric sensor at a higher level that would cut off a second valve if the water ever reached that point. (I.E. Build in some redundancy) Just be sure to set it up so the valve is open when the switch is energized and that it will close if power is ever lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finch6013 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 If you are worried about ato failure you can do what I did. I put my top off water with a maxi jet and some tubing to the desired fill up place. Then wired a plug that is on a switch under my stand. All I have to do is open the doors and flip the switch, then when full turn it off. Its like an ATO in that its minimal effort to the user but its controlled by me not a switch that may fail and cause a flood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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