impur Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 So this weekend i'm going to get my rear in gear and do the tile for the area my new tank will go. I really think i can do this myself, i've read several how-tos on it and it doesn't seem to be too hard. Especially since i'm only dealing with a 9x8 area. Anyone have some tips that maybe these how-tos overlook? I'm planning on using 12x12 slate tiles. I will seal the tiles as well. I have to cut out the carpet first. My house was built in 06, do I need to lay down some cement board or additional plywood on the subfloor? And that should be sealed first right? After that it seems its just using morter and "gluing" them to the floor with spacer between them. After they dry, grout in between, shape the grout and viola! I'm sure it sounds easier than its going to be, but it also sounds like a fun project for me. So any tips are much appreciated!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsoz Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 I did some tile work around my wood stove, and it mostly is that easy. The most difficult part is making sure that every single tile is straight. I tend to get to the point where I start to get sloppy, and then the one or two that are not perfect are the ones that I see once the job is finished. Nobody else, except you, will see small mistakes. dsoz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c24 Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 My husband is a tile setter so I learned to do it as well. I tiled our backblashed in our kitchen . My tip with with using slate, a lot of time the thickness will vary so use an extra amout of thin set so when you start laying them next to each other you have some depth to play with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonH Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Agree with advice so far. Also, you'll use more thin set than you think. So mix extra so you don't have to stop mid-project. Only lay down enough thin set to do a couple tiles at a time. Take the time to make sure the corners meet up cleanly - take a step back to view the lines to make sure they're straight. Lay out the tiles ahead of time so that you know where they will go on the floor. Make sure you have a couple extra tiles... just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Algae Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Hey, I believe Shawn has tile saw that he was using to butcher chalices. I should come over on the pretext of helping and do a five finger discount on that rainbow acan frag (I swear that is the NICEST acan I have ever seen). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Franklin - Thats right he does!!!!! Sweet!!! Gotta call that dude haven't heard from him in awhile. Lets see how far you get with that acan (naughty) (laugh) Thanks for all the tips they are very helpful. Keep em coming!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 don't forget to buy a bunch of the little spacers, makes life easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Definitely using spacers! Does anyone see any problems with putting my tank on the slate tiles? I've been reading all day and keep reading that if you push down too hard while laying the tiles they could break. Well if i can break one by pushing on it, the new tank will break em without even having water in it. I think it would be ok if i put some sort of padding under the tank stand, like styrofoam or another type of padding like the foam for camping and stuff. This would help keep any spots from having too much pressure, since the slate is not an even surface. Think that would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undrtkr_00 Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 I don't think anyone answered your question about the cement board. Yes, you'll want to add that over the top of your subfloor. Tile directly on plywood or particleboard is bad news. Regarding breakage, if you do a good job with laying the tile level and do an adequate mortar job, I don't think the tiles should break after the mortar sets up and your grout is in place. Once all that is cured, tile should only break if you have a lot of flex in the floor. I would imagine that your recently built house should be sturdy enough to prevent that, especially after the cement board is added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 I don't think anyone answered your question about the cement board. Yes' date=' you'll want to add that over the top of your subfloor. Tile directly on plywood or particleboard is bad news. Regarding breakage, if you do a good job with laying the tile level and do an adequate mortar job, I don't think the tiles should break after the mortar sets up and your grout is in place. Once all that is cured, tile should only break if you have a lot of flex in the floor. I would imagine that your recently built house should be sturdy enough to prevent that, especially after the cement board is added.[/quote'] Thanks for the response. I've been reading and reading and it seems most contractors recommend exterior grade plywood to tile to. Most don't seem to keen on using the cement backerboard for whatever reason, cost maybe? Anyway thats the direction i'm going to take, using exterior grade plywood on the subfloor and tile on that. I'll caulk all the joints and where the plywood meets the walls as well. See any problems with that plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsoz Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 My brother used slate on his outside patio. There are a couple places that already have broken tiles. And that is only from weathering and foot traffic. I would do something more like tile for under the tank. dsoz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonH Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 My guess is that if contractors aren't using cement backer board, it's for cost reasons. Everything I read said that was the way to go, and that's what I did (installed ceramic tile in my laundry room - nothing fancy). Regarding tiles breaking... I think the risk is before the mortar sets. Because the backing isn't firm, the tiles could break if they flex. For example, the directions I read said to hit the tiles "firmly" with a rubber mallet to set them. I did that... and the third one shattered like a mirror. Lesson learned. Once the mortar is set and provides a firm backing, I don't think you would need to worry about cracking. Some stone is brittle/fragile (e.g. travertine), but slate is strong and I think you would be fine - unless you dropped something on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impur Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 Yah that makes sense. Dennis - perhaps he didn't seal it or have at least 1.25" backing when he laid the tile? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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