zondebok
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Posts posted by zondebok
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51.5x14(maybe 13 7/8), had a 55g tank on top, and there is some discoloration from water around the edge. The top is a solid piece of wood, so could be sanded if you want to use it for something other than a tank stand.
Wife wants it gone and told me to take it with the old carpet I'm taking to the dump tomorrow, so if you want it, let me know quick and I'll throw it in the garage until you can get it.
I'm in Vancouver, near the Costco by 205/padden.
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I've wondered whether these were up to holding a smaller tank. Good to know that someone else has tried it [emoji16]Yup storage and fish tank/ snake holder haha
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Is your "stand" from ikea?I have been going a little crazy not having a tank so I bought a fusion 30 not long ago.
Last night Kori came by and helped me get the new light hangers mounted so now I can start to aquascape the tank. The equipment will be pretty basic and nothing out of the ordinary on this one.
Nuvo Fusion 30l
Mp10 if I decide it needs more flow
ATI 4 bulb 36 inch sunpower
Dc return
Marine pure blocks in overflow sections
Red devil nano skimmer
As for livestock I'm going with a clown or 2 and whatever my daughter picks out at the store [emoji4]
Corals will be mainly higher end mushrooms, high end rock flowers, and some Lps.
It's more of a holding tank right now as I'm selling some corals but once those are sold I'll be able to aquascape it how I like!
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Working today, unsure why...Thanks for the help guys, will post back if there are more experiments or new patches to apply.
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If only I could have figured out how to purchase a stand for this thing
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I certainly am not trying to say that water changes are bad, but if I can add the trace elements in the right amounts, that seems like a better approach for my situation.
Obviously do whatever is working for you. I may very well be making a mistake and learning 😁
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1 hour ago, pdxmonkeyboy said:
lol. what math is that?
Taking 20% of your water out and replacing it means leaving 80% of the problem behind. It only gets worse as you do consecutive changes too...
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I understand that water changes can restore some balance, but math suggests that they're not as effective as people make them out to be. I'm certainly not opposed to doing them as a means of solving a problem, but at this point it seems like the only problem they would solve is adding minerals.
Also, my main parameters are currently flawless, and have been for some time with no water change. Everything is happy and healthy...
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2 minutes ago, TheClark said:
Thanks!
If you are free please kill Tapatalk and relaunch it. Appreciate the help
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProSame error.
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Just now, TheClark said:
Please try again
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProSame.
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2 minutes ago, TheClark said:
If anyone on this thread has a minute, please give it a shot again.
Same network error for me.
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I have the Smart ATO. I had some turbulence when I used it in my 55g, but just normal surface breaking from pumps. It worked well. It false alarms a lot though with regard to it's logic to determine if it took too long to fill or it has been too long since it was filled. I am looking for something else due to spousal complaints about the beeping... (but I will be selling it when I do, if you're interested)
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23 gallons filled to the top, though.
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There was a tapatalk update, but still the same error for me.
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Unfortunately I don't really know anyone in person, beyond just having met at the meetings and such, so I have to go with doing absurd amounts of research...
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11 minutes ago, TheClark said:
Find a good local reefer with a nice tank (longer term success) that does not do water changes and interrogate them FWIW..
I'm hoping I can find that in this thread
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What kinds of things should I be dosing if I am going to do no/minimal water changes? I have little coral now, mostly LPS and a few encrusting SPS.
My water parameters are good, as far as I can tell, and water changes suck, so I'm going to try to avoid water changes unless something appears to be a problem, but I know I need to replenish some of the elements that the corals use.
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I do have both a tomini tang and a yellow tank in my tank. The do pick at the glass and rocks a lot, but they didn't come near the algae that was growing because of the sunlight (it was probably too long by the time they got in there), and half of the problem was inside my overflow anyhow.
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The light for mine comes mostly in the morning, so it's not too awful intense.
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I am specifically looking for an AIO Nano! Not really a good reason to make it a prize, I suppose... (but if anyone has one for sale, let me know!)
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I had a bunch of algae for a couple weeks, but it seems my chaeto can even outcompete the natural light...
It wasn't an option to keep the light away from that end of my tank, but it seems to have stabilized and I don't really get more algae there than anywhere else now.
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If you decide you don't want it, let me know!
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31 minutes ago, shaywood said:
Zoneebok, Any reduction in nusince algae?
I threw it in shortly after my tank was cycled, and the rock in the display became covered in long, thick hair algae. It died off over a couple of weeks, and there is no discernible algae in the display now.
My nitrates after the cycle were 80-100+. I have not done a water change at all, but nitrates are now 0. I also feed pretty heavy.
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I'm using this one: https://www.marinedepot.com/Wave_Point_Blade_HO_LED_Aquarium_Light_Daylight_6500k_9_Inch_LED_Light_Fixtures_for_Aquariums-WavePoint_Technology-ZP14150-FILTFILD-ZP14167-vi.html
It has grown a 3" ball of chaeto to completely fill the fuge section of my sump (trigger 39) in about 6 weeks.
Free stand/cabinet
in Classified Threads
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