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XrayGuy

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Posts posted by XrayGuy

  1. Oh and I got the aquarium specific silicone to use on my baffles for the sump, just haven't put them in yet. And I will be getting the conduit I need to make my light hanger this upcoming week too...would do it this weekend but I work every weekend, so I have to wait.

  2. Ok a couple of updates. I decided after talking to Jeff and Steve (ssappington) about ATO, that I am going to use the Hydor ATO with the 3 prong temp sensor along with an aqualifter. I also got y my RODI unit setup and running! My plumbing is 95% complete on the tank...just need to get my return pump and then I can plumb that last little bit. I also think I am going to paint the PVC black so that it is less of an eyesore since the return plumbing is going over the back of my tank due to the Herbie overflow. I also finished leak testing the tank and overflow and all is well! Tank is now in its final resting place in the house and awaiting my return. Here are some pics:

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  3. I like eBay for buyer protection along with PayPal. I also only order from US sellers because I have had issues with buying things internationally before (China and Italy).

     

    When I go to pick up my RODI at Cuttlefish, I will talk with Jeff about diff options for ATO. Thanks for the info!

  4. [ATTACH=CONFIG]13651[/ATTACH]

     

    Ok so I am thinking that I want this so that I can dose as well as use it for continuous ATO. I realize it may take a bit to dial it in just right to match my evaporation rate, but I will eliminate dealing with float valves or switches. Water may even be more stable? Thoughts?

    post-6563-141867764483_thumb.jpg

  5. Skimmer is 20"H, inside stand is 23.5"H I believe....so if you prop it up too much, you are going to have a difficult time getting the skimmate collector off.

     

    My skimmer's sweet spot is 9" so I made the nearest baffle that high.

     

    Might have missed it, what are you using as your ATO?

     

    I do not have an ATO plan yet. I know I want to have a resivoir of some kind near the tank though. Ideas on a good one? I need to do some research still

  6. I found some info about your skimmer's recommended sump water level, so keep that in mind when doing your baffles. Easier to raise skimmer than to raise water level is all I'm saying. But also remember your stand is also on the short side.

     

    Recommended Sump Water Depth: 5.5"-5.75" (http://www.reefspecialty.com/super-reef-octopus-1000-internal-protein-skimmer)

     

    So to make the water level close to optimum for the skimmer, should I make the baffle that height? And I mean the first and third baffles in the trio between the return section?

  7. Very Nice build I love this size cube ' date=' the main siphon on your herbie drain should be a little lower so that it does not suck in air from the surface, good call on the gate valve they are the only way to go when dialing in a drain worth every dollar. Good job on painting the inside of the stand to help prolong life also the white sides will make it easier to see when working under there. Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to watching this reef grow =)[/quote']

     

    Thank you! Making that main drain shorter is an easy fix. I will knock a couple inches off.

  8. Looking good so far. Btw the return pump should go after the over and under baffles to reduce micro bubbles.

     

    Id also ditch the socks, just turkey bast the sump from time to time.

     

    Create a manifold for the return pump so you can split off the flow to different accessories like a reactor.

     

    No clue on that pump. Planning to get a jebao dc pump.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Good to know about the return placement. I had set it that way because that is what most of the pictures looked like when I was Googling it. Totally makes sense though because the skimmer will be making bubbles too. Good thing I am redoing the baffles after all :-)

     

    Also thanks for the answer to the socks. I was kindof thinking I didn't need them since most pics I have seen of those drains had no socks.

     

    The manifold you speak of should maybe look like the one impur has? That shouldn't be too hard to make

  9. So I have come back to the hobby after being away for a few years. My last tank was a standard 48" 55 gallon, so this should prove to be a fun upgrade. I am a little rusty on some things and also there are some things that I simply do not know, so I am kind of reviewing and learning at the same time here. I have been trying to be patient and do research on everything so that I do this right from the get go. If you have suggestions or see something that I am doing that's wrong, please let me know.

     

    Ok here we go. As the title indicates, this is a Marineland 93 gallon cube 30" x 30" x 24" with corner overflow. I bought this from Jeff @ Cuttlefish and Corals and I must say that I am pretty happy with how he runs his shop. I also got the matching stand, which is on the short side at 26" from very bottom to very top, but I think it will work out OK. I painted the inside of the stand with Kilz primer similar to impur's same tank and vanz. I think this was a great thing to do because it will help keep the moisture out of the wood, thus prolonging the life of the stand eliminating the issue of mold and rotting etc (hopefully). For now, I will be using a 20 gallon long as my sump. The back of the stand is wide open, so the sump tank will stick out a couple of inches, but I am OK with that. I am going to attempt to set up the Herbie method overflow and use the existing PVC that came with the tank for the two upper pipes. Down under, I will be using straight pipes into the sump and the main drain will have a gate valve on it to be able to dial in the Herbie just right. The sump will have three sections - drain from tank, skimmer/fuge, return - and maybe down the road I can add some dosers or reactors of some kind. I already screwed up by not researching what silicone is aquarium safe, so of course as luck would have it, I siliconed my baffles today with the GE type II that is apparently a no no. I will be getting the razor blade out tomorrow to take out the baffles, scrape out the silicone, and re-install them with the GE type I silicone that is recommended. I would like to have a resivoir under there too with ATO water and pump so that I can have that going too. I will be attempting to install my new RODI unit behind my fridge too so that it is close to the tank. As some folks pointed out in another thread, I may have a drain hole in the wall there too that the waste water can maybe go down...I need to look into it to see if it is usable. So without this turning into a novel, here are some pics. I am still working on plumbing, first time doing this myself also, and currently am leak testing the tank.

     

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    Here is what my sump will more or less look like. I have a Reef Octopus SRO 1000 INT skimmer that I have high hopes for. I also have an acrylic fuge box that I need to get a couple of suction cups for and then I plan to mount in the middle section with the skimmer and have chaeto in it. For the drain pipes, should I be hooking a sump sock to them even though they will be submerged due to being Herbie?

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    Return pump. Hopefully this puts out enough juice. If not, then I need to research a suitable replacement.

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    BAD SILICONE!!!

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    I got the Ocean Revive T247 LED light from Jeff also. I will be getting a 10' 3/4" EMT conduit pipe and a pipe bender from Home Depot and making a light hanger like in these pics. I will then secure the hanger in two places on the back of my stand, but leave it a little loose so that I can just rotate the whole thing out of the way when I need to get my hands in the tank. So that I don't mess up my hardwood floors, I will put some type of pad under the bottom of the pole so it can rotate ok.

     

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  10. That has to be by far the cheapest price on a gate valve ever. I'm sure you want a gate valve or you wouldn't have asked but these Tru Union ball valves from Lowes, I have on all my tanks and they turn easily, not like the greater majority of ball valves that you need a hammer to get started moving.

     

    I presume you have something that requires the fine tuning of a gate, if not this are the best Ive ever found-and inexpensive

     

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_108956-33599-P200U-40+1_0__?productId=3354628&Ntt=american+valve+pvc+1%5C%22&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Damerican%2Bvalve%2Bpvc%2B1%255C%2522&facetInfo=

     

    AMERICAN VALVE 1-in PVC Sch 40 Socket In-Line Ball Valve

     

    How well does that work compared to a gate valve? I am building a tank similar to vanz and going to do the Herbie overflow, so that is why I wanted the gate valve.

  11. I am getting pretty frustrated with trying to find one of these dang things. Nobody carries them or claims to even have ever seen one...Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, Ferguson, Grover...ugh! If anyone has one I can buy or knows of anywhere LOCALLY that I can get one, please let me know. Thanks!

  12. That cap is a clean out for a drain make sure you don't just leave it open as that could en up making a huge mess =)

     

    Ok I was wondering what that was. So how do I tell where that hole drains to? Also, so if I do use it then I should just close it back up since its a drain for something else so that there is no mess?

  13. I am getting a 4 stage RODI system and have not had one of these before. Would it be possible to mount this behind my fridge and tap into the water line that goes to the fridge? Would that cause any pressure issues or anything? My tank is going to be a few feet away from where the fridge is and I am thinking if this can be done, then it would be super convenient.

     

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  14. So I got this along with some stuff I bought on CL and I do not need it. It comes with a Marineland MJ1200 pump, the manual, and a dozen or so of these black biofilter star things. I ran this for a while in a vinegar/water bath and got it as clean as I could. The black rubber ring around the skimmer cup should be replaced because it is cracking and will probably break sooner than later. Not sure what something like this is worth, but lets say $60 obo? Also willing to full/partial trade for the following:

    - Jager TruTemp 250w heater

    - Medium size Mag-Float

    - Small descent quality power head for my 8gal Nuvo tank

    - Let me know what you got and maybe I want it ;)

     

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