omarortiz

I think mine is done. I will check it out, but it looks dead to me.

I guess it didn't like when my heater control broke and my tank got to 90 degrees. DOH!

+1 on these. I nearly killed mine a couple of times but it always bounced back.

Last minute post! I haven't really paid much attention to mine. I trimmed it a bit as it was growing algae off the top. 10 mm and struggling. It's kind of still alive. (scratch) I suck at pictures; I know.

Everything else in my tank is doing far better. (nutty)

And now... back to enjoying the summer.

How many stages is your RO filter?

Chloramine is my guess.

Wait a little bit and they may find their way into it. It's typically only a matter of time.

The meeting is on Sunday of next week.

Sorry. I have to work on Saturday. :(

I'm interested in a golden eye chalice. Are you going to the meeting next weekend?

With a forty, you would only need the SWC 120.

Here is a good link of the teardown on SWC skimmers. Be advised that I often hear of people scrambling to find replacement atman pumps, so just be forewarned that it happens to some people (but some people never have problems).

Which skimmer should I get? They both look good but I can't decide between the two. What does everybody think? It will be used on a 40B with a 20 gallon sump. Thanks for your input!!!

That is called a street elbow.

you need a T' date=' a 90 (forget what it's called, has a female on one end and male on the other) [/quote']

I am inclined to agree. You're pH is bound to swing in an almost any reef aquarium setup. A better thing to keep an eye on is alkalinity. Using kalk to raise pH is only a temporary fix as it will fall as corals consume alk and calcium. Kalk can also cause your pH to become unstable when you do not dose magnesium to compensate for the magnesium precipitating.

You shouldn't need to use ph buffer. The ph is really not that important unless it gets under 7.8 I wouldn't pay much attention.

Second in line on 6.

Here's my update. still at 11-12 mm. I had a dino outbreak that really smothered mine. I had some rtn that followed that. Still alive... for now. :eek:

I'll will be buying tonight. (Just got a coupon.) I'll have the free shipping and I am checking to see if anyone from Eugene/Springfield needed to tag along for smaller orders that don't meet the free shipping mark.

There is someone selling 10 40B acrylic tanks on craigslist in Eugene for $400. It only looks a little sketchy. They might sell one for 40 bucks. They also might bury your body in a shallow ditch. (laugh)

Hey everybody

I am looking for a 40B tank. The one I have has a crack in it. :-(. I really don't want to pay the $100 plus for a new one.

 

Thanks

Bryan

10" is not that close at all.

How much flow is going over it? More flow = more nutrients.

How often do you rotate the ball? They like to be spun a bit from time to time so that all areas get some consistent light.

What is the light cycle? It needs at least 12 hours to do well.

I have heard that chaeto can go sexual (though far less often than caulerpa). I have also heard that it does not do that at all. With that said, a 24/7 light cycle typically prevents that.

I suggest you trim off the white parts. They are probably dead.

Probably still has it for sale. I was interested, but I have to wait a bit longer as I am having tank issues. If you want to swoop in I would suggest you send a PM.

Great new website. It looks very clean and sharp.

Very nice DIY for your light. Be sure not to spend all your Vortech money. (whistle)

I am out of the woods, but I still have some dinos in some spots. Everyone seems to have a different treatment plan. What's working for me is:

1. 
    
   
2. A reduction in light though I never shut off the light entirely.
   
3. A reduction in feeding (the fish are very unhappy with me)
   
4. Increased flow from the return pump
   
5. Dialing in the skimmer to skim as wet as possible so that I empty a full cup and clean it every 12 hours.
   
6. Periodically knocking stuff loose in the tank so it can get into the sump.
   
7. Putting the Vortech on nutrient export mode
   
8. Rinsing off my media bags with RO to get buildup off (Phosban, purigen, carbon and Chemipure elite)
   

What I didn't try is:

1. Vodka dosing or anything else that increases bacteria in the tank
   
2. Replace my media
   
3. Stop water changes
   
4. Remove things to scrub them outside of the tank
   
5. Remove my sanded
   
6. Raise pH to 8.5
   

In the end, I really was counting on the Vortech and skimmer to do the heavy lifting, and they seem to have gotten it done, though I have some patches of boogers here and there, but they look kind of dead. The snails seem to eat the dinos as well so they never really got completely out of hand. It would have been much harder if I had the toxic dinos that kill snails.

Of course, the dinos could have just run their course...

DOH!

I have 36 LEDs. 3 strings of 12. 2 blue strings and 1 white string. I turned 1 blue string off, and dialed the white down to about 10 percent.

BTW, here is that valve that prevents back flow. BRS sells a variety of them... it is called a true union check valve.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/true-union-swing-check-valve.html

Just a little update...

After reducing the lighting, I have been knocking the snot loose for a couple of days and using the nutrient export mode. It seems to be helping.

Happy birthday Kim!

Thanks Beth. That's interesting. It was definitely not a false reading though. There were dino boogers all over. I cleaned it up and it was good to go again.