Rob Allen

There are a couple solutions that I have used and have had great success with, however I never used any solution to take water directly from a RO unit. My solutions always required filling up a baucket manually. We also believe in buffering freshwater before using it and there is now way to do that directly from a RO unit. There is one solution, the more expensive, which I have a higher comfort level with. I have thrown together a couple drawings to give you an idea of the setup. Tsunami AT-1 Solution (lower cost - about $84): Items Needed: - Tsunami AT-1 (cost about - $57 - http://www.aquacave.com/detail.aspx?ID=254) - MaxiJet 1200 (cost about - $22 - http://www.aquacave.com/maxi-jet-1200-power-head-br-295gph-by-aquarium-systems-1339.html) - Misc. tubing (cost about $5) How it works: - The AT-1 box has a power cord, which is always plugged in. It has a power outlet and an air hose which goes to a tube that goes to the location in your sump where the water level drops from evaperation. The tube in the sump works on pressure. The higher the water the more pressure detected by the AT-1 and keeps the power shut off to the outlet. When the water lowers, the pressure drops and the AT-1 turns on the power to the outlet. The outlet will turn on a pump, in this case a Maxijet 1200 which is located in the fresh water bucket. It fills up the sump until the tube detects pressure again, turning off the outlet on the AT-1. - CON: the tube is held on with Eheim suction cups. Even though these are the best suction cups in the hobby, there is still a chance they could let go and turn the pump on. The only time this happened to me, it was my fault and didn't overflow the sump as the tube only floated so far and still shut the water off. - Maintenance: Occassionally clean the tube to prevent salt from clogging it, which would only prevent water from being added and not overflowing the sump. Tunze Osmolator 3155 Solution (higher cost - about $196): Items Needed: - Tunze Osmolator 3155 (complete with everything needed - cost about $196 - http://www.aquacave.com/tunze-osmolator-3155br-water-level-regulationbr-system-1309.html) How it works: - This is a little more complex, but has some great safety features. There are plastic rails which attach to the side of the sump holding an electronic eye and an emergency high float. The controller has LED indicators on it letting you know exactly what the system is doing (Too High, Level, Pump On or Too Low). When the water drops below the electronic eye, it will turn on the included pump to return the level back to normal. If the water gets too high, the float will lift killing power to the pump and sounding an alarm that can easily be heard in most houses regardless of your sump location. If the water drops below the electronic eye too far the same alarm sounds. - CON: We typically had to unplug the unit when the return pump was shut off as it would trigger the "too high" float. This was due to our setup and was only a problem when we forgot to plug it back in. - Maintenance: Occassionally clean the electronic eye - never had a problem with it. *** This is the best ATO unit that I have come across and worth every penny -- I never had to worry about it when we were on vacation, it simply works ***

(clap)(rock2) Wow. Nice! Great job. Also, Shannon - love your setup.

Very nice. Things like this seperate this club from many others. Well done.

As John mentioned this same technique will work with Ricordea. Unless attempting to create many, many frags, just leaving a Ricordea alone usually produced plenty on its own by naturally splitting.

Ricordea and Rhodactis love to split. I have only kept Rhodactis in the past and I have seen it occur both ways where the mouth is not visible until after the split and slightly visible before the split. So, to answer your question I would guess it is about ready to. There were times where it would split into 5 pieces and others just in a couple. So, don't be surprised at what you may see, just keep in mind that it is natural.

Some LFS' out there may carry them, but I usually purchase them online. Here is one example - http://www.aquariumpros.com/c-PFbh.html.

You would be surprised what mushrooms can take and still survive. Anthony Calfo once threw a coral, which if I remember correctly was a mushroom, in a blender and chewed it up. He pulled out the pieces and had an surprising success rate. You should have a very high success rate when fragging mushrooms. Keep in mind that corals on some reefs can be completely out of water during a low tide, get baked by the sun and still survive. My point, most coral is hardier than we give it credit for. They will typically not like a lot of light and want to get to a more shaded, lower area as you stated.

Yes indeed. Ron was right on. Those other pics threw me.

Pittsburgh Steelers. I have been a fansince I was a kid, before I even lived in Pittsburgh. This will be the first year in a while that I won't be going to the games, well because we are moving. I don't have a college favorite, but I am sure I will follow Oregon once we are there.

The frag tank I had I used egg crate and PVC legs and wire ties. It is easy to assemble and they are a little flimsy, but once in water and weighted down a bit, fine. For a cost savings & heat savings I would go with a T5. I used T5 for our frag tank and it worked out pretty well. The coral didn't have too much of an adjustment going to a halid display.

I was thinking this is a Ricordia, or possibly Rhodactis. I can't tell from the picture, but Heteractis have longer tentacles. Again, this maybe a misread on the picture. If I am correct with it being Ricordia or Rhodactis, you can tell the difference by looking at the tentacles -- if the tentacles have fingers, it is Rhodactis. If the tentacles are single ended / just round at the end, it is Ricordia.

Total cost of the cabinet was around $250 and the canopy was $150. $50 of that was the gas assisted shocks. I wanted the canopy to open easily to gain access to the tank, so I built it to use gas assisted shocks like most trunks use on a car. Here is a You Tube video of the canopy to show how easy it was to open. Without the gas assist it was about 35lbs. of weight.

Centropyge boylei are very, very rare. Moorish Idols are known to be just about impossible to keep. These have very little data about keeping captive, for obvious reasons. Steve - have you heard of specific details on this fish in captivity?

I would have put at least 10% into the tank, but......

I wish we had crossed paths earlier. For the cost of shipping, we could have sent you all the fiji LR you needed. I gave it away with our livestock. Anthony's method is great, but don't rule out simply putting bulk heads with a screw in 90deg. elbow. It is easier and takes up less space. Pros and cons to either. The box is cleaner looking. Some people say that the elbows make more noise, but personally I found as long as it is made large enough, the noise is a non-issue.

Yes, looking forward to what I am going to be able to hear and getting together with some friends. I will make sure Bob has some PNWMAS garb with him. Pacifica Towers. They are done, but they are still working on some townhouses and more will be coming, I am sure... Thanks, will do.

Maybe this pic can help you. Compare it to the picture and you will see some of the confusing points.

Yes, unfortunately we had to sell it. Selling our tanks were soooo difficult. The only tank we will have room for will be the Red Sea Max (34 gallons). DIY Post - http://www.pnwmas.org/forums/showthread.php?p=70118#post70118

Access to install the sump is in the back. A 2x6 support in the middle is able to be removed to slide the sump into place. The sump size on this tank is a 75-gallon.

This particular design is for a 180-gallon tank from glasscages.com (dimensions 72"x24"x25") this design can be modified for any size tank. I wanted to build a tank stand that I would never question its integrity. Between the stand, the tank, the water and the substrate the estimated weight will be around 2,300lbs. so another item to look in to is floor support. Make sure your floor can handle this kind of weight. Fortunately my tank straddles an I-beam. Here is a link to a PDF file that shows the design, finished look and the templates for cutting the pieces from the MDF. You will need Adobe Reader to view this file. 180 Gallon Tank Design Link Building the stand: Step 1: Cut the Base and Top platforms from the 4'x8' sheet of MDF Step 2: Route the front and side edges of the Top and Base Step 3: Pre-cut the 2x4s and 2x6s Step 4: Build the Base platform w/ 2x4s and a plywood top Step 5: Build the Top platform w/ 2x4s and using Lag Bolts for the cross supports Step 6: Prime the Top and Base (thanks to wife for the painting help) Step 7: Paint the Top and Base Step 8: Attach legs to Base platform Step 9: Attach the middle supports which also act as door stops NOTE: Offset the middle supports and the right leg so that they will act as a door stop Step 10: Attach Top platform to legs and middle supports Step 11: Paint exposed areas Step 12: Prime shell (sides and front pieces) Step 13: Attach Top and Base platform to the frame Step 14: Paint shell (sides and front pieces) with a Silver Metallic Glaze (the wife found a cool method to make this design) Step 15: Attach shell pieces to the frame Step 16: Measure door opening, cut doors, attach knob and hang door using hidden hinges Step 17: Remove doors, Paint, added molding and reattach doors - Wooohoooo! Finished with the Stand Step 18: Placed tank on stand, cleaned and setup. Step 19 (optional): I always complain that I can never see in the stand, soooo I put two cheapo flourescent lights under in the stand and used a 110v switch to connect them Here is a pic of the tank after we cycled and moved our fish over. ** this tank has since been converted to salt water and houses a Porc Puffer, Green Spotted Puffer and Desjardini Tang. Here are some pics of the new setup: Tank before edging got placed back on it (I will post a new pic of the entire tank soon): Sump Design: Sump (left side - Skimmer output / refugium feed): Sump (right side - Overflows, skimmer feed & refugium): Skimmer / Return Pump: The canopy is done as you can see above and I will post those instructions as soon as I can find them.

Excellent, thanks for the info.

Very nice, thank you. I have travelled out to Portland quite a bit over the past two years. We really like the area and have heard a lot of good about the LFS' in the area. Looking forward to it. We are moving to a condo on the Willamette River just northwest of the Pearl District. I work with a startup company in Pittsburgh that was acquired by an insurance company based in Portland -- most can probably guess who that is. My postition is being moved to Portland, hence the reason for moving. We will definitely be coming to some meetings. Thank you very much for the offers of chaeto and frags. We typically start our tanks slow, but will be in touch when the time comes. A good friend of mine is holding a number of frags for me and plans on shipping them out once we are ready. Another friend is holding our rock, which is not being held under light, so I might be looking for a couple small pieces of LR. Any suggestions where there is a good supply of Fiji LR will be helpful. Thanks again.

Here were our tank setups prior to tearing down for the move. Some of these pictures were taken closer to the startup of the tanks, but they give you the idea. Reef Tank - 180 Gallon Display, 50 Gallon Sump/Refugium / 55 Gallon RDSB Sump / Refugium / RDSB in the basement: - lighting: 3x250W 10k SE Ushio Metal Halide / 4x96W 36" Power Compact Actinics - fish: http://www.allensaquariums.com/reef/fish.htm + Our mated clowns + Mandarin Goby both were shipped to Matt Wittenrich who wrote "Breeders Guide to Marine Aquarium Fishes". Our Mandarin already paired up and helped successfully produce over 100 baby gobies - Matt will probably be speaking of them in his MACNA presentation. The clowns have also spawned many times since he received them, however he hasn't had time to raise the fry. - Coral: http://www.allensaquariums.com/reef/coral.htm + Here are some of the coral we had in the tank. There were a lot that I never had a chance to document. Puffer Tank - 180 Gallon Display, 75 Gallon Sump/Refugium - I built the stand and canopy. The canopy was gas shock assisted for easy lifting. I will post a DIY about the build. - fish: http://www.allensaquariums.com/puffer/fish.htm + this tank held our Porcupine Puffer, a Green Spotted Puffer and a Desjardini Tang who later thought he was a puffer. He would literally push the porc puffer out of the way to eat a clam. I have a video on You Tube with them eating. So, that was the past. The future will hold, as I mentioned in an intro thread, a Red Sea Max once we move into our new condo in Portland. It is going to be tough going from over 500 gallons to a 34 gallon nano, but.......it is better than no tank at all.

Babgaii's hold their fry for about 20 days (+ or -). I have a friend that just experienced his holding them for over 30 days which is the longest I have ever heard of. The only thing you really need to do once the male releases them is to get them away from other fish that will eat them. Placing them into a pod infested refugium is a good option, as long as there isn't a way for them to get sucked out.