Liquid Hobby

 

Acans that have been pissed for weeks. Any suggestions would be great. I've moved them away from flow again tonight to see if that will help.

 

I've got an identical acan colony that got torched by favite sweeper tentacles and now looks exactly like yours.

Has your acan recovered at all?

So, this set up pulls water out and puts water back in at the same rate and the same time?

Edited to reflect the light fixture is 6 bulbs, not 8.

PM sent back. I didn't have the board notify me of new PMs, which has since been changed.

Hey jgf,

I'd prefer to to keep it as a complete unit... for now. If I can't sell it as is, I'll PM you.

I'm also going to throw in my 4 stage RO/DI filter.

Forgot to add there are also 2 100W heaters with the system.

I'm upgrading to a 120G system and need to sell my old system. It's got everything required except for an external closed loop pump (I ran a panworld 1150 gph external).

Looking to get $500 for everything all at once. The light fixture alone is worth $300+...

Here's what's included:

40 G breeder, internal overflow, drilled for closed loop with 4 outlets, all loc line included.

T5 Tek light 6 bulb with hanging system - will need new bulbs

Moonlight strip

Custom stand

20 G long sump with refugium section, with hanging light

auto top off

Mag 8 return pump

Corallife skimmer

Deltec Calc stirrer

Phosban reactor with pump

This system was originally built to house everything in the stand, however, I eventually moved the sump and pumps to the garage just the other side of the tank wall. Some plumbing modifications will need to be made and you will need a CL pump. I've included all plumbing with it.

The system ran great for 2.5 + years but pilot error ended it for me. great starter system.

PM for RC dot com build thread.

I use an ATO from top-off dot com.

It's set up like this:

RODI water in 5G bucket. The ATO kicks off the lift pump that sucks water from the 5G bucket and pushes it through the kalk stirrer. In order to control the amount of kalk water I have a split in the line that sends water to the stirrer and straight to the tank. I can control the amount of water that goes to either the tank or the stirrer. The stirrer has a small valve on it already. I put a small drip irrigation valve inline of the tube that leads to the tank.

Works great!

I did learn the hard way that make sure ALL the kalk is settled in the stirrer before turning the top off back on. I missed this step and recently dumped untold amounts of kalk straight into the tank resulting in a massive crash that killed 50% of my fish and about 10% of the corals.

It's bounced back nicely though and I still use the kalk stirrer. It was user error that caused the issue!

Now, if you had just kept it in the shop for all of us to gaze at...

Congrats on splashing the tank!

Technicolor urchin:

My new Fox Coral.

Well, my autotopoff and RODI are not integrated so I'm not sure what I do will help. I have a Kent float valve in my RODI water barrel which of course is after the RODI filter.

For my top off I use one of these: http://www.top-off.com/viewitem.php?it_id=16 They also sell a nice cheap moonlite strip.

There is also this company: http://www.autotopoff.com/index.html

Do you still have some live brine available?

So, I've got an article form Randy Holmes-Farley saying Mg in natural sea water is 1280 and levels between 1250-1350 are ideal for the aquarium. Now I read my Mg test kit closer and it says 1300-1500ppm for Mg as you pointed out above

I'm more prone to belive RHF than a vendor's product lit...

I tested my Magnesium levels tonight and they are at 1170. It says normal seawater is between 1300-1500.

Where are you reading that normal seawater is 1300-1500 for Mag? I'm looking at a Farley article that states natural salt water mag level is 1280 and that an optimum levels for the aquaria are between 1250-1350. I shoot to keep my mag level between 1200-1300ppm.

Articel link:

I was told to put an air stone in the container when I got some a while ago. I kept a bunch alive for about a week in small tupper ware container with an airstone in it. Next time I will feed them, as I been told they are not that nutritious after they are 1 day old, with empty bellies and no egg sack.

I think it was the last one... but I reserve the right to be wrong!

I drilled 6 holes in the back of my 40G breeder uses those diamond hole saws. When they are new and fresh it made quick work of the glass... did all holes in about 30 minutes!

OK, So how do you make your image go from a little thumbnail to large image within the post?

Check out the sweet Yuma I got at Waves!!

I'm in! Just got both of these new inhabitants and they seem to be getting along nicely!

You only 2 vortechs on a tank that is smaller then 180gals... 150, is not to low for plumbing, depending how many union ball valves you use, it could be higher, plus you are use spa flex, so that will be more...

 

But here is the deal...Find me something that will run your pump when the power goes out for 24hours for 150 bucks...Good luck ...Plus depending how you have the vortechs set up, you would only need one battery back up in a power outage, that will get you enough water movement for that period of time...and they are coming out with a controller, you will have much better options then an OM...

 

ON tanks that are smaller then 50gals, I think CL are cheaper...but when you get over 75gals and add an OM and a much bigger pump then you have (which you will need, a dart like we are talking, that used is 190.00 shipped)...

 

to each his own...but a bigger CL that is done with an OM, and plumbing that allows you to disconnect all pieces with out water spillage will run you well over 600 bucks, not to mention time...

Well, I guess I need to look into alternate power source for when the power does fail... Add that to the list! No way I can get a $150 dvice to run my panworld for a day. I can just reach into the tank and swoosh some water around with my hand a few times an hour!!!(laugh)

I will jump in... I've got a SCWD but I use it on my returns.

I do not trust the SCWD to sit out of the tank with some vinyl tubing that is merely clipped on. I'm sure people run it that way, but I just see blown hoses, broken clips and 30 gallons of water on the rug at 3AM... (hope for the best but plan for the worst)! Because of that, I would not hook it up to my CL outside the tank. I also didn't want it in the tank. My first CL attemp was a Mag12 driven externally on the CL. It was super loud and I've read the pump will eventually leak... It's really not an external pump.

My SCWD is hooked up directly off the return pump right in the sump. I then run 2 returns to the tank. This way, when the SCWD fails, which it will, I'll be in the sump which is in the garage...

Personally, the SCWD is a great device as long as you take it for what it is... The OMs on other devices are more expensive for a reason. To do it again, I'd pay more for beefed up device. Remember, these things run 24/7.

LOL hey Todd, now youre in trouble, I know your screen name GOTCHA!

well, I guess I outed myself... I'm the same screen name on RC.

So, the vortech thingy is $350ea! How many do you need to create the flow you want? At least 2 right, plus a battery back up for each or can one battery back up two pumps?

My CL is looking like a killer deal: $100 used pump, $50 in locline and if I added a 4 way OM for $350, $150 for plumbing (which I think is too high) I'm all in for $650 with multiple outlets vs close to $1K for the vortechs without a controller...

f vortechs' date=' were not around I would still be going with a CL...[/quote']

 

Got a link for this vortech thingy?

 

I did my CL for less than $400, but it does not have a wave device. Used PanWorld $70 or $100 (I conveniently can't remember). Plumbing wasn't too bad, most expensive part is the $2.30/foot of spa flex. Definitely not $300 worth though. So, if I added a wave device I'd need to add 4 X 1 1/4" true unions and the OM 4 way. That would put it over $400, unless I got the OM used...