Liquid Hobby

I've got an identical acan colony that got torched by favite sweeper tentacles and now looks exactly like yours. Has your acan recovered at all?

So, this set up pulls water out and puts water back in at the same rate and the same time?

Edited to reflect the light fixture is 6 bulbs, not 8.

PM sent back. I didn't have the board notify me of new PMs, which has since been changed.

Hey jgf, I'd prefer to to keep it as a complete unit... for now. If I can't sell it as is, I'll PM you. I'm also going to throw in my 4 stage RO/DI filter.

Forgot to add there are also 2 100W heaters with the system.

I'm upgrading to a 120G system and need to sell my old system. It's got everything required except for an external closed loop pump (I ran a panworld 1150 gph external). Looking to get $500 for everything all at once. The light fixture alone is worth $300+... Here's what's included: 40 G breeder, internal overflow, drilled for closed loop with 4 outlets, all loc line included. T5 Tek light 6 bulb with hanging system - will need new bulbs Moonlight strip Custom stand 20 G long sump with refugium section, with hanging light auto top off Mag 8 return pump Corallife skimmer Deltec Calc stirrer Phosban reactor with pump This system was originally built to house everything in the stand, however, I eventually moved the sump and pumps to the garage just the other side of the tank wall. Some plumbing modifications will need to be made and you will need a CL pump. I've included all plumbing with it. The system ran great for 2.5 + years but pilot error ended it for me. great starter system. PM for RC dot com build thread.

I use an ATO from top-off dot com. It's set up like this: RODI water in 5G bucket. The ATO kicks off the lift pump that sucks water from the 5G bucket and pushes it through the kalk stirrer. In order to control the amount of kalk water I have a split in the line that sends water to the stirrer and straight to the tank. I can control the amount of water that goes to either the tank or the stirrer. The stirrer has a small valve on it already. I put a small drip irrigation valve inline of the tube that leads to the tank. Works great! I did learn the hard way that make sure ALL the kalk is settled in the stirrer before turning the top off back on. I missed this step and recently dumped untold amounts of kalk straight into the tank resulting in a massive crash that killed 50% of my fish and about 10% of the corals. It's bounced back nicely though and I still use the kalk stirrer. It was user error that caused the issue!

Now, if you had just kept it in the shop for all of us to gaze at... Congrats on splashing the tank!

Technicolor urchin:

My new Fox Coral.

Well, my autotopoff and RODI are not integrated so I'm not sure what I do will help. I have a Kent float valve in my RODI water barrel which of course is after the RODI filter. For my top off I use one of these: http://www.top-off.com/viewitem.php?it_id=16 They also sell a nice cheap moonlite strip. There is also this company: http://www.autotopoff.com/index.html

Do you still have some live brine available?

So, I've got an article form Randy Holmes-Farley saying Mg in natural sea water is 1280 and levels between 1250-1350 are ideal for the aquarium. Now I read my Mg test kit closer and it says 1300-1500ppm for Mg as you pointed out above I'm more prone to belive RHF than a vendor's product lit...

Where are you reading that normal seawater is 1300-1500 for Mag? I'm looking at a Farley article that states natural salt water mag level is 1280 and that an optimum levels for the aquaria are between 1250-1350. I shoot to keep my mag level between 1200-1300ppm. Articel link: