civicsit

That I know of sabaes do not split in captivity. Also, they usually do not tolerate anemones of another kind in the same tank together, but I guess it just depends.

HTH

My only gripe is they dont always turn on again 100% of the time after cutting power. Not really a big deal since a flick of the finger gets it going again' date=' but Id rather not even have to think about it.[/quote']

 

Is that only with the larger koralia's? I have never had a problem with my #2 starting.

Great color! Hopefully it stays that way and is healthy.

Thanks for all your hard work! Good luck and I hope to see you around.

It might come out easier if you pull off the intake and set in it your rocks, just don't try to pull the anemone out (which I'm sure you know). Just give it a little and see how it works out. Also be sure to check the tank parameters and try to figure out why the anemone was walking. They usually don't walk unless they are unhappy, but just check.

Good luck.

I don't think that a shorter photoperiod would be a big deal, as long as you decrease it slowly, like decreasing it by 1/2 hour every 3-4 days until you reach what you want.

spaghetti worm?

melevsreef is always a good place to go to for information.

I run mine from 11:00am-9:00pm (about 10hrs) both actinic and MH. I have a single 250w MH and 2x65w actinic over a 30g oceanic cube. My temp stays at 78 +/- 1 deg.

+1 on what dsoz said. Probably just low nutrients. You should look at it as a good thing.

2 is GSP (Green Star Polyps) and 5 looks like some brown paly's

okay ... i now also have 29g All Glass Aquarium tank for sale too its' practically new (5 months), no known scratches on the glass, was used to house a snake and then a mouse, should hold water. The 29g will work with any/all of the stuff i currently have for sale.

the lights retail new ~$86

penguin 200 bio wheel filter retails ~$50 (this would also work for a refugium for a smaller tank)

40g tank (or 29g) + stand + compact florescent lights - $110

or

lights (30")- $60 (will also fit on 20L or 29)

40g tank + stand + florescent light strip 20W- $45

29g tank + stand + florescent light strip 20W - $50

40g tank - $25

filter - $20

heater - $15

aquarium ornaments/decorations & rocks - $15 (for all of it)

gravel substrate - free if purchase something else

$130 for everything (1 tank only you pick)

$160 for everything (incl both tanks)

or make me an offer... i really need to sell this stuff.

email: rosecat04@sbcglobal.net

I'm confused here. (scratch) Why do you need such low flow through a fuge in order for the macro to do it's job? I thought that macro would take out the same amount of nutrients if it is low or high flow. Why does it depend on the flow of the fuge for how much nutrients are taken out? Also the flow of the pump would be spread out over the whole area of the fuge, so the flow at any one spot (other than the inlet and outlet) wouldn't be moving that fast. Is there a study done on flow through the fuge somewhere?

Another thing is that isn't the urchin a little small for a 75g sps tank? Your talking about the Aqua C Urchin right? Shouldn't you get something that is rated more like 200g since you want it to be an sps tank? And I don't see why you have to limit the flow of your fuge to the flow of water going through your skimmer, since you should have very little water flow through the skimmer anyways (about 1.5-2x tank volume, so about 115-150gph). Shouldn't you be able to just T off of one of the fuge supply lines, put a couple of ball valve in there, and get the amount of flow through your skimmer that you want? You may want to look into a different skimmer if that is the case, because you may need to make room for it.

I agree that you should get rid of the bio media, but what about the UV sterilizer? It may be useful to have on a switch so that you can turn it on when needed (like if your fish get ich or something), but don't they do more harm than good in a reef tank?

Anyways, sorry about the rant.

I will stop now.

Just wanted to get a few things cleared up, and hopefully help someone in the process.

Thanks! (rock2)

Do you know of any other place than chemistry teachers that you can get the potassium permanganate from? I have some of these on one of my frags and have been trying to rid them by hand with no luck yet.

Is the flow similar to a seio or a koralia? Has anyone figured a close GPH on these?

For the slots you could just use a good old dremel, then use a box knive to clean up the dremeled edges.

did you try zoaid.com?

good thing you have a son that knows about your tank.

I've used the super glue gel to attach it, you just have to use a lot of it.

Yea, I would just try to let them recover. Some anemones can take quite a bit of abuse and still live to survive, like when people frag anemones by just cutting them in half and letting them heal themselves into two seperate anemones.

The site that dsoz recommended is a GREAT site and I always recommend it to anyone who is researching BTA's or is having problems with one.

Good luck and keep us posted!

I would like to know a price, if it's not too much trouble. Thanks.

need any more? I have a small piece that is about 1 1/2" long and has like four different kinds of zoas on it. Some good colors, eagle eye, eye of rah, green implosion, and green people eater. Only thing is I'm in Corvallis, but if you want it you could get it next time you are down here, or I will be in portland next week or the week after and I might be able to drop it off. Just let me know.

wow, nice job on getting it back up and running. Good luck with the tank. I think that your tank has too many frags, you should give me some!

Apparently I am the only one running DE bulbs these days?

I run a 250w DE, but I have liked my pheonix and haven't had it that long, so I haven't been able to try out any other bulbs.

I was in there today, and they have quite a few, all different sizes.