Overflow advice needed!

[KMiller]

So, we are wanting to make the new set up really nice and clean looking. That said, what kind of overflow/drilled/etc would you recommend? We were looking at the Glass Holes 1500gph kit, which would be drilled through the back, has anyone used this kit? are you satisfied? How much space in the back of the tank does it take?

 

I was also wondering, is it possible to have dual corner overflows (all black in the 2 back corners, not sure if there is a proper term for these. I know you can purchase tanks this way, but is it possible to make an existing tank like this?) with it drilled through the bottom?

 

I am wanting to have the tank/stand flesh against the wall that it is on, and if I can't do that, i'd like minimal space behind the tank, as it is in our living room.

 

Any suggestions/recommendations welcome!

[tanktop74]

I have the Gl*******s Dart overflow on my new 150 gal sps tank and love it. I know Kendaroo has the 1500 on their 90 gal. They only take up about 3-4 inches on the back wall depth wise.

 

I think they are great and would recommend them!

[KMiller]

Bahahaaaa!! I love the censoring!!

 

Thanks for your advice Beth!

[Rick]

So, we are wanting to make the new set up really nice and clean looking. That said, what kind of overflow/drilled/etc would you recommend? We were looking at the Glass Holes 1500gph kit, which would be drilled through the back, has anyone used this kit? are you satisfied? How much space in the back of the tank does it take?

 

I was also wondering, is it possible to have dual corner overflows (all black in the 2 back corners, not sure if there is a proper term for these. I know you can purchase tanks this way, but is it possible to make an existing tank like this?) with it drilled through the bottom?

 

I am wanting to have the tank/stand flesh against the wall that it is on, and if I can't do that, i'd like minimal space behind the tank, as it is in our living room.

 

Any suggestions/recommendations welcome!

 

You can have dual corner overflows. You just need to order them based on the dimensions you want (A search should turn up a few places that make them or you can go through one of the LFS). As to holes through the bottom it will depend on your tank. If it has a tempered bottom (Quite common even when the sides are not) then you can't. Otherwise you should be able to.

[Algae]

+1 on gl*******s. Less real estate. Safer. Higher flow.

[impur]

I read lots of good stuff on the glass holes overflows.

 

Jacob has a 75 with dual corner overflows. He drilled a hole at the top at each corner and siliconed some black acrylic inside the tank to make the overflow boxes. Looks good and seems to work great.

[akambience]

I'm also in the process of plumbing my new system. (scary) This is a link I found that I thought was particularly helpful: /silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow/

 

and a flow calculator, equally as helpful.

[Drew]

Anyone local using the 3 stand pipes?I would really love to see one in person.

[Rick]

I'm also in the process of plumbing my new system. (scary) This is a link I found that I thought was particularly helpful: /silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow/

 

and a flow calculator, equally as helpful.

 

A herbie setup is simpler and accomplishes the same thing. (From what I can tell that is essentially a herbie setup with some extra unnecessary plumbing added to it)

[LC Scott]

Drew, here you go.

 

 

[Algae]

A herbie setup is simpler and accomplishes the same thing. (From what I can tell that is essentially a herbie setup with some extra unnecessary plumbing added to it)

 

True up to a point, Rick.

 

While both are designed to to run under a high flow full siphon. The Bean has the additional down pipe to ensure that there is the safety measure that protects from the siphon from becoming clogged and flooding. The second down pipe, in the event of clogging of the first, becomes the primary (full siphon). The third pipe replaces the the function of the second (trickle) in an emergency.

 

These systems are made for very high turnover at full siphon which some people are in favor of (Grassi). There are instances of people doing around 2000 gph through these systems. The Bean requires 3 X 1 1/2" down pipes. If you run a more moderate flow regime this is redundant and the protection is not needed.

 

I have read way too much on these overflows on RC and I do understand them. You must follow the Bean example exactly, however,there are a couple of tricks that are not mentioned on the Bean site. If you decide to go this way you can call me. I also know where to get 1 1/4" elbows locally.

 

I prefer to do the turnover via heads and have a lower turnover through the sump/tank, but the choice is yours.

 

Wannareef has done an external Bean on a tank.

 

Here is a quick comparison:

 

http://marine-engineers.blogspot.com/2011/02/bean-animal-hybrid-overflow.html

[Rick]

True up to a point, Rick.

 

While both are designed to to run under a high flow full siphon. The Bean has the additional down pipe to ensure that there is the safety measure that protects from the siphon from becoming clogged and flooding. The second down pipe, in the event of clogging of the first, becomes the primary (full siphon). The third pipe replaces the the function of the second (trickle) in an emergency.

 

These systems are made for very high turnover at full siphon which some people are in favor of (Grassi). There are instances of people doing around 2000 gph through these systems. The Bean requires 3 X 1 1/2" down pipes. If you run a more moderate flow regime this is redundant and the protection is not needed.

 

I have read way too much on these overflows on RC and I do understand them. You must follow the Bean example exactly, however,there are a couple of tricks that are not mentioned on the Bean site. If you decide to go this way you can call me. I also know where to get 1 1/4" elbows locally.

 

I prefer to do the turnover via heads and have a lower turnover through the sump/tank, but the choice is yours.

 

Wannareef has done an external Bean on a tank.

 

Here is a quick comparison:

 

http://marine-engineers.blogspot.com/2011/02/bean-animal-hybrid-overflow.html

Whoever did that comparison doesn't appear to understand how the herbie setup works. The backup drain should never be smaller than the primary drain and should not have an elbow in it that could limit the flow. I.E. The backup drain should be wide open since it will only flow water in the event that the primary drain gets restricted. If it does then you do not want it limited at all. (This includes eliminating any potential restriction points where debris could get caught)

 

The only working difference I see with this setup is that a third backup line has been added and the second line is used to trickle water if the primary drain hasn't been sized large enough to flow the entire volume on it's own. Other than this it appears to have some extra tees, caps, and valves in the backup drains that don't really do anything other than increase the potential of a restriction developing if debris gets caught in them.

[Algae]

Whoever did that comparison doesn't appear to understand how the herbie setup works. The backup drain should never be smaller than the primary drain and should not have an elbow in it that could limit the flow. I.E. The backup drain should be wide open since it will only flow water in the event that the primary drain gets restricted. If it does then you do not want it limited at all. (This includes eliminating any potential restriction points where debris could get caught)

 

The only working difference I see with this setup is that a third backup line has been added and the second line is used to trickle water if the primary drain hasn't been sized large enough to flow the entire volume on it's own. Other than this it appears to have some extra tees, caps, and valves in the backup drains that don't really do anything other than increase the potential of a restriction developing if debris gets caught in them.

 

Actually, there is only one valve needed. A number of the extra parts are not required and was cobbed together before being refined.

 

All the intakes are sized close to the bottom of the overflow tank, so that no large snail could clog it (the same thing could be done with with a cover).

 

But again, if you don't feel you need it. Go simpler.