Joe Blow Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 So this all started a few weeks ago. I purchased a tank from Bob at Coral Reef Pet Center. It's one of Jason's old display 125g tanks he had lined up in the shop. I looked at the prices on stands and just couldn't believe what they want for these things, so me being a journeyman carpenter, decided to just build my own. I made a thread here asking about plans for tank stands and got a few ideas and rolled with it. So here is what I got atm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 the only thing i would change joe is putting a bottom in the stand, best decision i ever made with my stand was putting a bottom in and putting a 2x4 lip around it, that way the bottom of the stand can hold up to 4" of water, which is NICE if you get a leak or when your doin water changes an water spills lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 I have a sump that I purchased in the classified forum, I will post pics later. The light I plan on using is the 72" 3- 400w MH pendants and actinics. Not sure model # just right this second, but I'm getting it at cost so I'm really stoked about buying this top end light. Things I need still: Skimmer, There is one at the shop I can buy but I'm always looking to save some dough so if anybody has one that will work please feel free to let me know. Calcium Reactor, same as above, actually haven't even priced these yet, but I would just need the reactor as I already own 25# tanks and I'm sure my regulators will work just fine. Heater, need suggestions on good heaters that have minimal fail rates. Don't want the top of the line, just something reliable, and that ain't gonna light me up with electricity if it fails. Refugium ideas. I would love to have a fuge, unfortunately I don't think my sump is big enough. I got plenty of cab room so if anybody has any ideas there that would be cool too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 the only thing i would change joe is putting a bottom in the stand' date=' best decision i ever made with my stand was putting a bottom in and putting a 2x4 lip around it, that way the bottom of the stand can hold up to 4" of water, which is NICE if you get a leak or when your doin water changes an water spills lol[/quote'] The stand is not complete yet. I am putting a bottom in it. It's also getting skinned out with 1/2" Oak plywood. Also you probably can't tell because of the limited pic size allowed here, but there is a shelf/countertop around the tank that will be tiled or something cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 very very nice. Definitely put a lip around the bottom, so that it can be sealed up an made waterproof so that the eventual spill wont hurt anything :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 very very nice. Definitely put a lip around the bottom' date=' so that it can be sealed up an made waterproof so that the eventual spill wont hurt anything :P[/quote'] mmmhmmmmmmm (clap)(clap)(clap) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 Well just went to get the sump outta the garage. Asked the kids to pic up my scraps earlier and take them to the garage. How nice of them to help me......... So now I need another sump................ Anybody have a sump for sale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 Joe, shoot me a pm, I might have something for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Ok sump is figured out, tank was delivered, and everything is filled and set up tank wise. Running the system atm to get the silt out and the things that are supposed to cause less noise, are actually causing A LOT of noise. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 What specifically is making noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 The over flows. I made some gurgle busters, using a cap, a T, and a 90. I drilled a hole in the cap. This is supposed to be just like the quiet over flow kits you can buy, but these aren't quiet. I was just trying to save some money......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Do you have two overflow drains? Can one of them handle all of the flow from your pump? If the answer to both is yes then set up a herbie overflow instead. Essentially you just use one low drain as a primary drain and adjust the flow with a valve (preferably a gate valve but I've always used a ball valve) so it matches the pump flow. I.E. The entire drain will be submerged. This requires a higher wide open backup drain though (no valves and do not submerge it at either end) in case of any blockage in the primary drain. (Because your matching the pump volume it will only take a little for the level to raise in the overflow) When you adjust it you want the water level in the overflow just above the primary drain so it is entirely submerged. You also want the primary drain entirely submerged where it enters the sump. By doing this you prevent any air from entering the drain which will cause noise. The drain will be almost silent. (You may still hear water flowing through it if you get next to it and listen close but it will not be gurgling) I've set up 5 tanks that way now that all set less than 4 feet from my TV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 I got a ball valve on each drain to control flow, and to shut them off if I need to service something in the sump or whatever. I'm thinking of just removing these gurgle busters because the only thing they busted was my wallet...................... My pump is an EcoPlus 1267 GPH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Your flow is probably around 1000 gph then. Probably too much for a 1" drain. If so then it can still be done with 3 1" drains (which is how I'm setting up my newest tank) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Well this tank has holes already drilled into the bottom, and I don't think I can drill more holes in it. Especially considering that it's full of salt water now......... Will just whacking off the tops of these over flows help at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Well this tank has holes already drilled into the bottom' date=' and I don't think I can drill more holes in it. Especially considering that it's full of salt water now......... Will just whacking off the tops of these over flows help at all?[/quote'] No it wont help, it will sound like Niagara Falls in your living room. If you have a T you don’t have the gurgle buster at least not this Gurgle Buster; http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/HGB_construction.html There is no "T" I did this exact one on my tank it was very quiet, I also have the homemade type you described. I had to drill a 3/8 hole in the top and I use the same tubing I have on my RO/DI unit, I think its refer tubing, the hard plastic but it does bend a bit. Anyway you will need to play with that as far as how far down in the tube it goes to silence it. I also did that same set up as another experiment but on that one I drilled 3-3/8 holes just below the 90 degree elbow. So basically you have your straight tube then a T that has a cap on the top (drilled 3/8) and a 90 degree. If you drew a straight line from the bottom of the 90 to the straight tube that’s where I drilled about an inch below that line. I could post pictures later if you want The Gurgle Buster was very silent but I did not think it drained as fast as I wanted so I went back to the option I described with the holes in the down tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Hmmmmmm..... I don't have any tubes going out of my holes. I just drilled holes and figured since they stick out of the water that it was good. I drilled like 5/16" holes too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Hmmmmmm..... I don't have any tubes going out of my holes. I just drilled holes and figured since they stick out of the water that it was good. I drilled like 5/16" holes too. Would need to see a pic before I say that is not right but it does not sound right. You only want the one tube in the center of the cap that the air tube will go in to adjust for noise. The 3 holes I did on the side (below the T) is because that is simialr to the kits that all glass and marineland use, but their downtube is also telescopic which I think plays a role in the design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Yea I think I'm just going to go buy the right parts when I can afford it. For now I'll just deal with the noise. What I have found is that when I adjust my flow with my shut off valves it goes away, so I'll just run with a little restriction on the flow for now....... I drilled more holes in the caps as well. Now each cap has 5 holes in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Yea I think I'm just going to go buy the right parts when I can afford it. For now I'll just deal with the noise. What I have found is that when I adjust my flow with my shut off valves it goes away' date=' so I'll just run with a little restriction on the flow for now....... I drilled more holes in the caps as well. Now each cap has 5 holes in it.[/quote'] I also use a ball valve to retrict it. it should not run more than a few bucks at HD but you know. you could always grab a coupler, cut out the holes add a small 4 inch section and you are back to square one unless you glued it all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 .... What I have found is that when I adjust my flow with my shut off valves it goes away' date=' so I'll just run with a little restriction on the flow for now........[/quote'] This is essentially what the herbie overflow is except that your gambing that it will not get a blockage if there is too much flow for one to handle it. (If it does you will have water on the floor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Blow Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 I also use a ball valve to retrict it. it should not run more than a few bucks at HD but you know. you could always grab a coupler, cut out the holes add a small 4 inch section and you are back to square one unless you glued it all I glued everything..................... Lesson learned on that for sure...........(scratch)(scratch) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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