nyciachef

I know of a few members on here that have had issues that ultimately related to the quality of their RO/DI water being used in topoff and/or water changes.  Turns out, if you are in PDX (or have a water source that uses chloramine) you can get an ammonia spike in your RO/DI water as your resin gets depleted.  You won't see this in your TDS readings and, since most folk don't test for ammonia after the initial cycle, you probably won't catch it in you routine testing. Unfortunately, algae love it.  I would suggest testing your RO/DI source water (assuming you are using it and not just treating tap water with prime or similar).  UV will definitely help with the water borne bloom.

Ok so I’m at a loss, 80g system 60 gallon display 20g sump bm curve skimmer, about a week ago I got a wicked green algae bloom, my tank is super cloudy and neon green. I’ve changed 40g in the last 3 days, I’ve changed my photo period, my spectrum, turned off my fug light, clean my filter socks daily. My nitrates are near zero, phosphates are low, everything else seems to be ok but yet here we are. Any ideas? I’ve added algae fix, Red Sea no3 control, and conditioner. I’m out of ideas.

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If you have the space, the best option would be to remove that animal and put it in a quarantine tank. Then treat with an over-the-counter medication at the recommended dosage. In addition to treating the tank, you'll also want to gravel-vac the bottom of the tank aggressively, at least 2x/day to interrupt the life cycle, along with water changes. In the meantime, get that animal lots of greens like nori and algae-based foods.
Here's a good diagram of the life cycle of this protozoan: http://www.rk2.com/uv-information.php
Treat from within with appropriate foods. Treat from without with medication and aggressive husbandry. Good luck, chef!
 

I believe my powder brown has ick, he has white spots on his body and fins and spends a lot of time swimming in front of a power head, now the traditional remedy is a copper medication. Unfortunately for me is this is a full tank and I don’t have a quarantine, does any one have any experience with garlic treatments or any ideas on what else I could do. He is a beautiful fish and I don’t want to lose him.
 
 
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I believe my powder brown has ick, he has white spots on his body and fins and spends a lot of time swimming in front of a power head, now the traditional remedy is a copper medication. Unfortunately for me is this is a full tank and I don’t have a quarantine, does any one have any experience with garlic treatments or any ideas on what else I could do. He is a beautiful fish and I don’t want to lose him.

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This is all a poke and hope idea, because you may not like the looks of the tank with the whites turned down. Alot of people I know running LEDs are primarily blue, and I am only speaking  from what has worked for my experiences.

Just my opinion, but try maybe turning the whites down a little. Maybe 50%? Let's see if there is a difference with the algae?

IMO, a phosphate test kit really won't do you much good, it will probably show 0, but the phosphates are contained in the algae and won't read out. I think your tank is still cycling and time and patience will win out if you keep up your water changes. You could maybe do 2 water changes a week for a month and see where that gets you? Was the live rock dried rock and did you cure it before it went into the tank?
All that bein said, what % are you running your lights at. In my experience, the higher you have the the whites, the more chance of nuisance algae appears. I run mostly blue on my Mars Aquas and have been pretty darn happy with the results.
hope this helps

I’d be willing to bet a pinky that it isn’t your lighting. Tell us a little more about your tank and water parameters.

I think [mention=15900]xmas_one[/mention] has a point here. What are the Parameters and you really should get a phosphate test. The other thing I'm wondering is what kind of flow is in this tank, over the last year what corals are growing and which ones aren't?

If you want primes you'd have to buy 2 of them my tank is 36 wide and one definitely wouldn't cut it

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Thanks guys my tank is 36x18x20 I believe the depth may be off a little but it’s 60 gallons


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So I am having issues in my tank with low coral growth and dual appearance, also green algae growth. I first lost an sps frag and my lps frags aren’t looking so hot. I have a cheap black box that has been running for about two years, I was thinking, should I swap out LEDS and the driver in that box? Or should I just get two prime hd lights and forget about it. My specs are in line however I don’t have a phosphate test so I am not sure what that is at. Any ideas? Suggestions? General comments? Lol

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Thanks everyone for the kind comments!


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Hey everyone! I’ve been in the hobby since 2007 and I am finally branching out to meet people. I recently cycled a new tank, my old one was covered in majano. I was recently at the frag show and had a lot of fun! Here are some pictures of my new tank.

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We have a great group and since it appears that you are lucky at the raffles you may want to check out our December meeting. This is typically when we have the best raffle prizes! [emoji4]

Welcome and glad you were able to make it!  Nice score on the MP-40... nothing like a sweet raffle prize to make your day.  Hopefully you found some nice coral goodies to take home as well.  We have monthly meetings (except for Nov.) so hopefully will see you again.

Thank you to everyone! It was my first show! I’ve been in the hobby for 10years alone and it was nice to network with others, thank you my new mp40 that I won is running well in my tank!


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Auburn, WA and I've tried everything else. It's out of control.


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I have a majano anemone and need to cycle a new tank. I need some one who has a qt or display large enough to hold three perculas and a large sailfin tang possibly an old pj cardinal if I can get him out. This would be a temporary assignment while I cycle a new tank.

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