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Dego Red

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Posts posted by Dego Red

  1. I don't have pics of the torn down system - moving across the country, no time. Here's the list, top to bottom:

     

    - Custom made tongue in groove hood - stained, painted, trimmed

    - 30g display: Plexi overflow with Drilled dual 1" PVC drain

    - Cabinet style stand, modified to house the sump

    - Tunze DOC 9002 skimmer, modifed to sit at correct level in sump (matches bubble trap) - newer pump.

    - 10g sump with bubble trap

    - Eheim 1250 return pump (silent)

    - Koralia 3 PH, plenty of flow for this display - about a year old

    - 5g ATO reservoir with pump, plumbing, float switch, 5V power and relays (secured to sump)

     

    Lots of little extras as well - some carbon, water additives, and any remaining usable test kits can go with. Easily over $600 and days of modification/build. $200 takes it all, totally PNP, just add rocks and water.

     

    I have a 400W MH with a 20000K bulb + one spare if anyone is interested for $175. I also have an actinic setup - end caps (4), reflectors (2), and ballast (drives 2 bulbs) for $75.

     

    Text or PM works best. I'm located in Hillsboro.

    Mike

    503-333-9072

     

    42a08d7e.jpg

  2. It's the last of anything live in the tank - come get it so I can sell the equipment!

     

    Small hitchhikers include GSP, green button polyps, orange/purple zoas, blue and red mushrooms, snails, crabs, etc. If you're setting up a new tank, I'll send you home with some water (up to the full 30g if you've got the buckets!) and a bright, non-aggressive blue & yellow damsel as well. Zero cycle and you can add corals immediately. $75

     

    Pictured in my 30g:

    fc208fed.jpg

  3. OK - apologies to everyone. I have instant email notification for both PM's and thread replies, but I just got an email and found SIX PM's!

     

    Quick update:

    As of now, someone on CL is taking 90% of the remaining livestock. I'm making delivery tonight, so if something doesn't fit in his tank, etc. I'll update the thread. As of now, the remaining corals are:

     

    - Both green mushroom colonies

    - GSP rock

    - A killer blue ricordea that I forgot to list :)

     

    I'm at work and its difficult enough to post, let alone get time to update the first post, so I'll have to get to it tonight after making one delivery and getting to another pickup. Sorry!

  4. ^ I'm not marking something sold that hasn't been paid for or picked up. I've been burned on that with car parts before.

     

    Some have inquired first and are just scheduling time to come down and pick them up. If they pass - as someone did on the AC Jr already - that's what post #5 is for. I'm assuming those interested can look to see what they want and look at post #5 to see if it's still available. Pretty simple, no?

  5. I'm going to keep posting in this post only for those who have made contact and want specific things. It will let everyone else know and I won't get lost in a sea of PM's! They'll be marked as sold after they're picked up.

     

    Livestock awaiting pickup

    cml800 - Pink cap, pink digi

    epic1 - Leather, green/purple w/ orange skirts zoas and some red shrooms

    titus'reef - Green digi, pink milli

    pnkrcklives - Clown, anemone

     

     

    Equipment

    steelhead77 - AC Jr.

    frlejo - Koralia 3

  6. Hi guys,

    Well my time in Oregon is just about up, and Michigan is too far to move my tank. Time to tear down and setup shop down the road (bigger and better, of course).

     

    EDITED: Here's what's left -

     

    A bright blue ricordea w/ green mouth(s) that's currently splitting. I forgot about him and need to get a pic tonight. $25

     

    Live rock is ready to go. The basic idea when "stood up" in a 30g display:

    Tank001.jpg

    I hand picked all of it, nice porous stuff. Some has been fragged so there's some rubble to build and steady the rocks on as well, and a couple small rocks are gone because they went with large stuff like the nem. Some pieces still have frags like a blue mushroom, 1"x1" GSP base (x2), the orange zoas and green button polyps. Asking $60 for all of it, so roughly 1/2 price from the LFS with free frags. I'll try to get an updated pic tonight as well.

     

    Tank011.jpg

    - Green striped mushroom colony. Big one in the middle is 2.5", 10 total. $20

     

    Tank012.jpg

    - Second colony of green striped mushrooms. Another 10 for $20

    - Blue & yellow damsel, very mellow lil guy. He'll be free once everything is out and I can catch him! Just have to promise not to use him to cycle.

     

    Tank006.jpg

    Huge GSP-covered rock, measures about 9x7x7". I could split this thing 7 times and each frag would be big enough to be $35 at the LFS. I'd sell the whole thing for $125 or I'll frag it if people are interested. I'd like to sell it whole, tho...it's already building on itself like an SPS.

     

    Remember - this stuff goes after the livestock

    400W MH with reflector, 20k bulb, and two backup bulbs (5mo old each)

    Actinic balast, 4 end caps, two reflectors

    AC Jr. with DC8, Ph and temp probes

    Koralia 3

    Complete reef-based hardware:

    - Drilled 30g display plumbed to 5g sump

    - Modified stand for sump

    - Tunze DOC 9002 skimmer

    - Custom built and sealed tongue-and-groove hood

    - Misc: Cooling fan, complete ATO, MJ900's, etc, etc

     

    I'll subscribe, so PM or reply works.

    Thanks!

    Mike

  7. I find it hard to believe that the carbon is leaching that much po4 back into the water. most high grade carbons unless its the worst possible grade of carbon on the market that you wouldn't even want it to touch your tank water let alone drinking water' date=' usually only leeches about .02-.03 of p04 back into the water and once it goes stale it will not leach any more into the water. Its easy to test carbon by putting a tablespoon of carbon in a gallon of water and test your phosphates in an hour. and besides most reef tanks do well with .02-.05 phosphates in the water. you do need phosphates in your water to sustain life and taking it all out can cause problems. I do not run gfo after my carbon canister and i run carbon 24/7.[/quote']

    So I guess the question is, what's the saturation level PO4 in carbon before leeching (if that indeed is the source), especially those in water purification machines? And at what usage/age does it become a problem? Answers we'll probably never get, but interesting nonetheless.

     

    Just by eyeball my PO4 level in the tank is 0.03-0.05, so I'm still in range running fluidized GFO. I just want to keep my one and only SPS alive for as long as possible - and dare I say - actually see some growth! I'm gonna bring a sample of all three to the LFS this weekend just for the sake of interest and hopefully order the RODI today or tomorrow.

  8. ...Lots of brands of carbon leech p04 into the water...

    The phosphate from the store is probably from the post Carbon filter. All residential R/O systems use a post filter using carbon and most leach phosphates back in...

    There! *These* are the types of answers I'm looking for. Not the 'where', but the 'why'. We're beating a dead horse here with the TDS vs PO4 argument - I already stated that I knew long ago that they are not the same thing. The statement was only made as an assumption that there should be some correlation between the two, that possibly being the health or age of the filter.

     

    Regardless, I already know where PO4 is coming from, and the carbon filters are the most logical answer if they're known for leaching. I'd often seen running both in a single reactor, but now I see why! Learning something new every day. :)

     

    I've heard good things about the Water General RODI units, and for $150 shipped it seems like a nice setup. Anyone here have experience with them?

  9. Could be a poor maintenance job on that machine like leaving filters on there too long or not servicing the machine often enough.
    While they do have "last service date" on the machine, I wouldn't necessarily trust that either. But since the TDS is in the same range as anyone else's RO (pre-DI), I've never had reason to suspect it.

     

    You could also try swapping out your ATO container and see if that's the source.
    Water was tested prior to to transfer to the ATO res, straight from the machine.

     

    Because we have really good water here in Oregon' date=' and because the place you are getting your water doesn't change their filters very often. [/quote'] TDS ranges are always the same (2-4). The only thing I can think of is if the filter lasts long enough to keep the TDS low, but is also long enough to trap phosphates to the point where they'll leach out in higher numbers.

     

    TDS is Total Dissolved Solids. That is different than PO4/NO3 etc.
    Well of course. Point is, unless the source water is different, what's causing the high phos?

     

    Another possible cause...

    Tank phosphate is right around 0.05ppm, but needs to be verified by a photometer. Either way, its about half that of the RO water due to my reactor (Rowaphos). Focus here is just the freshwater.

     

    Regardless of the source, guess I'll have to go a bit 'overboard' (for tank size, anyway) and get an RODI. I was simply curious as to if anyone else experienced the same. Guess I'll tell the wife we just need a bigger tank to make efficient use of it. :D

  10. from what i can tell from your numbers and what you have said is that you are only using RO water this might be part of your problem. you aren't using the DI part of the equation that filters out the metal's part of the water and that is what the DI does. I am also wondering what you are using for lights. sometimes brown corals means that you aren't using high enough lighting.

     

    400W MH (20K) over a 29g display - lights shouldn't be an issue, especially not the way clams grow for me.

     

    My question is, how can unfiltered tap water have 1/2 the phosphate RO water does? My only thought is the source water for the RO is poorer quality than the city water (but, again, why?) and relies on the process for taste since it's technically just drinking water.

  11. For as long as I've been in this hobby, I've never been able to keep SPS from browning, not one. After covering every base, phosphate had to be the culprit. Determined to find the source this time, I started testing everything. A few things just don't add up.

     

    I've always used Glacier RO water from Albertsons since its 1mi away and I only have a 35g system. TDS has measures 2-3, so I foolishly assumed that the PO4 readings must be lower than tap...right? Well here's what I got tonight:

     

    RO TDS: 2

    RO TDS immediately after transferring to my ATO reservoir: 11 (say what?!)

    RO PO4 reading: Somewhere between 0.1-0.2, needs to be checked by a photometer

    Tap TDS: 57

    Tap PO4: Between 0-0.1, but roughly half of the RO compared side-by-side

     

    My reservoir was cleaned the same way as my transfer buckets before the test - vinegar and tap - and never gets anything but RO.

     

    Can anyone explain these numbers or seen something similar?? I'm about ready to start conditioning my tap water until I can get my hands on an RODI unit in the hopes I get better results.

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