ANGUS

Now I know why your Vice President, you have the answers. Thanks!

Since I can't identify this creature, I've named him my Black Worm Ghost. I waited a long time to get a decent photo, and it is not the greatest, but can anyone help with his identity. His thread like body is about 6". He's faster than a speeding bullet and if you blink, he's gone.

This forum has taught me many things about managing reefs, and I'm grateful. Maybe my experience with flatworms can help others with the nasty critters. I have 100 & 75 reefs. Weeks back, I probably had at least a couple thousand in the 100, and most recently a small amount in the 75. Over a period of several weeks I constantly extracted them with a turkey baster. I got experienced enough to even remove them from the gravel. I had a net setup in the overflow to receive them so no water was lost in the aquarium. As an alternative, I would also blast them off the coral with the baster and net them. I got a lot of action with this method. At any rate, after several weeks I reduced them to a manageable group to use Flatworm eXit. As you know, it is the body fluids of the flatworms that cause reef problems. I used the manufacture's recommended amount directly into a high flow area of the tank, and they started dying immediately. I used a series of nets to remove the dead. As they die, they float freely about the tank. The results were that the entire reef, corals, fish, shrimp, etc. were not distrubed in any way, and the flatworms are no more. I never used any carbon. This did take some effort, but it was well worth it. At least I'll know how to handle it if there is a next time.

Thank you one and all. Time to work your suggestions.

These little guys showed in my reef the last two days. Can anyone identify them, and are they harmless?

That camera can shoot in a RAW mode. Do you have any software that can convert it?

Thanks, I'm studying the RAW mode and software.

If the camera has a Custom White balance setting you can use a piece of white plastic or acrylic in the aquarium. Fill the frame with the white piece of choice then set that to your camera's white balance. The white balance is what tells your camera what color white is, all other colors go off of that.

 

Shooting in Raw is often the best IMO, as it allows you not only to modify the color tone, but you can also adjust the saturation and replace what the flash took out (if your using a flash). Raw is also good because you have the ability to adjust the sharpness of the image, although there are more then a few tricks for adjusting sharpness.

 

If this doesn't make sense to you post what kind of camera you have and then maybe we can help more. I work with images all day so I might be able to help out.

 

HTH

Being a novice, I would like to take you up on your generous offer. I have a new PANASONIC DMC-FZ8. I've been shooting at the novice setting which doesn't take any brains.

What does it take to overcome 20,000K halides and blue fluorescent bulbs when it comes to taking aquarium photos. I can never get the correct color of my corals. I use to have 10,000K and never had a problem.

Thanks for the support. It has found a rock formation that it likes that has a crevice. Looks like it is going to stay put.

What's the secret on how to keep an Anemone in one place. The one I received yesterday likes to roam. I first placed in a hollowed out spot in the substrate and when that didn't work I built a corral around it using live rock. It has a very shallow foot which makes it difficult to anchor. Any help I can get would be appreciated.

Not to my knowledge. I've ran two halides, two flourescents, three pumps off one unit with no problems.

Have two used SHOCK BUSTER GFCIs. Has 5 outlet plugs. Reduction in tanks left a surplus. $5 each plus postage to your address.

Garrett, thanks for your "babble". What I learn from you and others puts me on the right course and most importantly gives me confidence that I can handle reefing.

Forgot! A little over a month ago I changed Halide Bulbs from 10,000k to 20,000k. It really brought out the coral colors, especially the greens.

As recommended, I have lowered both my tanks to 1024 & 1025.

My lighting setup for my 100 is 2 175W 20,000k and 2 fluorescent T-8 30W Aqua Coral. The same lighting for the 75 except 150W Halides. The 75 is where the bleaching has occured.

Thanks! I'm on my way!

Thanks for all the feedback. What is the best way to lower salinity? Water changes have never had any affect.

My tank has the following:

PH 8.2, SALINITY 1028, CALCIUM 400, KH 169, TEMP 79, AMMONIA 0, NITRITE NITRATE 0.

Still a novice! What is meant by coralline. The live rock is bleached on the sides with patches in the middle. For the most part, the live rock is purple.

My reef is now ten months old. I notice that some of the live rock is bleaching. All of the corals, fish, shrimp, & crabs are healthy and active. All of the chemistry is normal. Should I be concerned?

What a tragedy! I feel your hurt, but I hope you will rebuild. There should be reef insurance to cover such a loss. We can all learn a lesson from this. No matter how much caution we use, we're all at risk. Your tank really looked great before.

Great! Just let me know.

Can't help it, but I am enjoying all the surprises that macroalgae has to offer. Seven months ago, Ryan (Advanced Aquarium) started me on my first reef tank with Fiji liverock. It was loaded with all kinds of good stuff. Now I count over 12 different macroalgaes. In the three photos attached, can anyone identify the golden leaf and my latest addition the pink guy.

It would be great to see some photos of your favorite macros.

Reefboy, no offense taken. Do you have your tank posted on the forum. Would appreciate taking a peek.

Reefboy, call me lazy, but it is a breeze to maintain a reef minus fish. There are so many little critters and macroalgae to surprise me all the time.

Holly, yes! My Great Grandfather was born in Glasgow.