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Posts posted by Barelycuda
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What an incredible build!
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CE is not the same as UL. They may be similar but they are different entities and not interchangeable. The AI LED's are UL listed which is one of the reasons I ended up going with them plus they had the dimmability and control I wanted.
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One question that I have but probably already know the answer to is, Are they UL listed?? My guess is probably not but I would warn anybody purchasing anything electrical about questioning the listing of the light. This is a piece of electrical equipment that you are putting over a body of water that may not be built to the standards required for a listing. If it is UL listed then I would say that it is a great price.
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I always used the brine from Brine Shrimp Direct. They have both strains, the Great Salt Lake and the San Francisco strain. The San Francisco strain is smaller and a little bit more expensive if I remember correctly. I used the grade A great salt lake brine and had good success with it. I have heard the price is jumping right now on the brine eggs as the harvest was bad this year. The instant mix packets are worthless IMO. The hatch rate is terrible.
How much brine do you need? If you only need small amounts I would look into the hatching dishes from brine shrimp direct. http://www.brineshrimpdirect.com/c1/Hatchery-Dish-p183.html These work great for smaller use and will decapsulate the brine from the egg for you. I was able to feed hundreds of baby clowns with 2 of these. If you were closer I'd give you one to try out.
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Live brine from a store is not going to work. I would think that most likely they are Erectus as they seem to be the most common in the hobby. You are going to need newly hatched baby brine most likely less than 12 hours after hatch not adults. The seahorses are much to small for adult brine.
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1st. You can try frozen baby brine but I'm pretty sure they won't eat it.
2nd. Most baby searhorses need a kriesel for the initial juvenile stage and need to be fed several times a day. Depending on the species they will need newly hatched bbs for a little while and then you can start to enrich them. I wouldn't waste your time on pods or rotifers.
Good luck.
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Hey All,
As most of you know I have sold the clownhouse and have downsized my fish tank. I was cleaning out the garage and came across a few items that I am pretty much giving away. If you have any frags of anything softie related that could be donated that would be great but other than that come get it. I have set up a 27g cube that is pretty bare and needs some color. Lighting is not a problem as I have the AI nano sol on it but I'm not really interested in any SPS as to be honest with you pristine water is not a super high priority on this tank. Don't get me wrong I still do regular water changes and everything I am just not really into dosing calcium on this tank. Just keeping it simple.
First is a 4x65w power compact fixture. It is a coralife brand but one of the sockets is not any good. The other 3 work fine. Comes with (2)12k &(1) actinic bulb that work.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/barelycuda/pccompact2.jpg[/img]"]
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/barelycuda/pccompact1.jpg[/img]"]
Next is an old 250w Metal Halide fixture I found at work. It is and older magnetic ballast and socket. Works great if you wanted to DIY something or throw it over a frag tank or something.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/barelycuda/ballast.jpg[/img]"]
Here is a advance 2 lamp T-5 HO ballast. Perfect for a DIY project.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/barelycuda/t-5ballast.jpg[/img]"]
I found these 2 cords. They have the square pin PC caps on them.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/barelycuda/cords.jpg[/img]"]
Last is a GenX PCX-30 pump. This is in pretty good shape and I would like to get $30 for it.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/barelycuda/pcx30.jpg[/img]"]
Let me know if you want any of it.
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The easiest way to control the lighting elevations would be with cables and small DC motors controlled by a plc.
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IF you have power to the switch but not out of the switch to the dash lights you can put a jumper wire across the switch to test the circuit. If the lights still don't light up then your problem is elsewhere but if they light up then the switch is the problem.
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Kate, I have my 75g tank sitting in my garage if you are still looking for a tank. It is 95% complete and I am getting ready to sell it. (2) 250w halides, (2) 54w t-5 actinics, I have a second T-5 ballast but it would just need the lamps & endcaps. Sump, (2) 3/4" seaswirls for the return, return pump, and heater. I also have a calcium reactor and bottle that could go with it. The pump went out on the skimmer so it would either need a new pump or just another skimmer, it is an older euroreef 6-2. I even have the old rock(approx 100lbs). The rock had majano's on it but it has been sitting dry for about 5 months now so it is basically just base rock but some nice looking pieces.
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We were just there 2 weeks ago and enjoyed the snorkeling. I would say that black rock was our favorite on that side of the island. The best snorkeling at black rock was definately out around the point. If you enter in front of the Sheridan swim out past the point and head around to the right. There is a really nice little inlet around the point and the best snorkeling we had. Honolua bay was my 2nd choice. We also snorkeled Napili bay. Napili was more rocky and I didn't feel that there was as much to look at. We did see turtles every day we went out into the water My advice to get up early and go snorkeling as every one of the places fills up fast as it gets later.
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It sounds like the JBJ is set up for dual voltages. Typically your black & white are the 120 volt connections and brown & blue are the common colors in europe for 220 volt connections. If you use the black and white make sure you cap off the brown and blue wires. Pictures would be helpful.
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I have used bleach on my filter socks for almost the last 5 years and haven't had die off from it. I did do an extra rinse cycle after washing though.
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I sent a message to Kim. She was looking for a light exactly like this for the lakeridge school tank. Hopefully she'll chime in soon.
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That would be perfect for the TFT tank that Kim or Beth was asking for the other day. I'll see if I can remember which one was looking for it.
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Can I be back on the cool kid list please? Do you still need my login info?
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I don't understand how people don't have rodi units. Don't you want to pick the salt to use with you tank? Most lfs use cheaper salt an sometimes you noticed better results with higher end salts. I cant think how I would cart around 20 gallon weekly from the lfs to support my tank. Lol
That is not always true. For instance SWF uses 2 different salt mixes. They use Kent sea salt for their inexpensive salt and D&D salt for the more expensive salt. Both are available depending on which salt you want. While I do agree to a point that most stores only have one salt premixed available it is not always the cheapest salt as it is usually what is in all of their tanks. While I do like both Patrick and Woody I will never use woody's salt again. I did use it for some time out in the clownhouse and the consistancy of the mixes made me move away from it. It seemed to take longer than any salt I have ever used to dissolve and on more than one occasion mixed high on ph.
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I have the AI nano Sol over a 18'x20" cube and absolutely love it. Complete control over the white, blue, and purple LED's with the controller and the coverage is great.
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I have the AI nano sol on a cube almost exactly that size and absolutely love it. Incredible light and amazing ability to customize the colors and intensities.
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I didn't think Divers intstitute was for training in the recreational field as much as commercial it is geared for commercial work. I have been a certified diver for over 10 years and I thought you had to be a dive master to operate a diving business. I didn't see that offered as a course from them.
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I would probably go with an AC70 and buy the media basket for it. Fill it with carbon and it will do the same job as a canister with a lot less work. I owned a canister on one of my first FOWLR tanks and will never own another one again.
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I would go to their website and start scrolling through the recipes. I am on ththeir site all the time looking for stuff to cook
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not on mine' date=' the micro switch runs the smoke. Each setting shuts the auger off 10 seconds different than the other. The thermostat has nothing to with smoke, quoting traeger[/quote']
But in essence the micro switch directly controls the temperature when smoking. The traegers are designed to run between 160-180 degrees when set to smoke. When the temperature is running out of range the micro switch can be adjusted. For instance the factory setting for the traegers is P-2. With my traeger when the Traeger was set to smoke it ran 220-240 degrees which is too hot and does not produce as much smoke. I spent some time on the phone with Traeger and they had me adjust my micro switch to P-4. This lengthened the time between the auger introducing pellets by 20 seconds and made the temperature range drop to 160-170 degrees when I was smoking jerky this last weekend. From what I was told the older thermostats do not have this same function and with the digital display it would be a little more difficult to identify the cooking temp.
Looking to Borrow RJ45 Crimping Pliers
in D.I.Y
Posted
I have one Charles. Since we would need to meet up to borrow it if you bring the cables with you I could terminate them for you real quick.