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sivart33

new guy/tank

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Evap is fine in a saltwater tank, you just have to make sure you keep it topped off regularly.

 

A hood, while good in some ways, can be bad in others LOL.

 

And, it's always better to spend the money now on a new light fixture, than buy new bulbs for the one you currently have, knowing you're going to need to upgrade it down the road LOL.

 

Besides, if you start off with halides now, you don't have to acclimate all of your corals and what-not when you do upgrade your lighting LOL.

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ya ill see what my lfs sells for lighting, i like buying stuff in person rather then online since if it doesn't work i cant just go in and trade it, ill have to wait. the lfs may have bigger ones for there 75g set ups they sell as a package

 

ty for the input

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No problem man

 

If you ever get a chance, swing down to portland and check out Rose City, Nick sells 175w halides for last time I checked 75 bucks.

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The light you purchased is indeed an actinic bulb. Some corals will grow under it if they are within a few inches of the top. The wattage is too low for any kind of depth though (regardless of what the light temperature is). If they were compact flourescents instead then you could get by with more.

 

For that tank I think I would go with either a 150w MH or 24-36" Compact Flourescents or T5's. (T5's are better than the compact flourescent) I'm giving a range because I don't know the tank width. (If you run CF or T5 flourescents get whatever will fit the length)

 

Regarding the hood (bad vs. good) the main issue with them is that the lights we use generate a lot of heat. With the hood in place (especially a regular aquarium hood) it traps that heat and causes the water to heat up. During the summer heavy evaporation is a good thing as it is helping to keep the water cool. There is of course a limit since things will start dying once the temps get about 84 degrees or so. (If evap doesn't keep it cool enough then other means will need to be taken to cool it) A secondary issue is that they reduce the ability of the water to oxygenate because fresh air is blocked by them.

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The light you purchased is indeed an actinic bulb. Some corals will grow under it if they are within a few inches of the top. The wattage is too low for any kind of depth though (regardless of what the light temperature is). If they were compact flourescents instead then you could get by with more.

 

For that tank I think I would go with either a 150w MH or 24-36" Compact Flourescents or T5's. (T5's are better than the compact flourescent) I'm giving a range because I don't know the tank width. (If you run CF or T5 flourescents get whatever will fit the length)

 

Regarding the hood (bad vs. good) the main issue with them is that the lights we use generate a lot of heat. With the hood in place (especially a regular aquarium hood) it traps that heat and causes the water to heat up. During the summer heavy evaporation is a good thing as it is helping to keep the water cool. There is of course a limit since things will start dying once the temps get about 84 degrees or so. (If evap doesn't keep it cool enough then other means will need to be taken to cool it) A secondary issue is that they reduce the ability of the water to oxygenate because fresh air is blocked by them.

 

He's more articulate than I am LOL

 

But, he hit the nail square on the head, with a very large hammer.

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well time to find a new lighting fixture. ill be looking around over the weekend, still on the cycling process. even though got the water tested and everything is perfect, well phosphate is a tiny bit up, but i mean minimal and will go away with water change.

 

so lighting is not a rush. should be putting in a few fish next weekend so hopefully get the lights by then so i don't have to worry bout it after fish, even though its not a big deal for fish.

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