fairpricetickets

I have (2) 6 month supply kits for sale. Got out of the hobby recently. $75 each or 120 for both

You’re like the guy that sells a pencil for $1000 but includes free Super Bowl tickets.

I'd guess a blockage RIP Lonnie

Starry Blenny and Red Hawk fish are my 2 favorites for personality edit: reef safe that is. Puffies are the best if corals aren’t an issue.

So I don't know if this is normal or not, but my dog faced puffer sifts the sand to eat cyano algae in my FOWLR tank. I went to clean the glass today and was scraping some big chunks of cyano off the glass....when along comes dog face thinking it's feeding time. He ate every last scrap of cyano I scraped off the glass for him. Is this normal? I never heard of them doing this (and yes, he is very well fed with shrimp every day).

.85 with the latest test Maybe phosphates were too high for a long time and I lowered them too quickly. I guess time will tell. Moral of the story: Never buy acros

Phosphates test came back at .76 and .82 🤔

I read your post on lanthium chloride an actually thought that would be worse without a testing kit since it can nuke the phosphates if too much is used. I thought I was better off with phosguard running intermittently since it just reduces phosphates that flow through the media reactor and is more of a "half life" type of application because it's not capturing 100% of the water flow. Without a testing kit I think phosguard is safer but now that I'm going to be testing I'll probably switch so I don't have to use a media reactor. Really I just need space for a proper fuge, but I'm in a rental and can't expand anymore

Thanks for the advice, I think you guys are right it was the phosguard since I was running it more and had just changed it. Fed some mysis and used a 2X dose or RR to get the phosphates back up ASAP. Thanks for the offer PDXmonkeyboy I sincerely appreciate it, but I'm in Rogue River, OR and my Hanna tester arrives today anyway. Luckily the strawberry shortcake acro was my only loss so far and all my other sticks are ok ATM. Gonna test from now on, should have been doing that all along 🤦‍♂️

Just found out I've been using the Sea Reef Energy Plus AB+ unrefrigerated if that helps. Doing massive water change now.

Been pretty stable for a while now but my strawberry shortcake acro hasn't been looking great (less color) and also the Fire and Ice zoas nearby have been losing their orange color - turning into just solid purple. Then this morning half the shortcake frag was bleached completely. The only thing I've done differently in the past 2 weeks is run Phosguard more (I run it more when my colors aren't popping) and using 40% the recommended dose of "Red Sea Reef Energy Plus AB+" a day because I wasn't using an amino product prior to this. I also inject this product pretty close to these corals, but was under the impression this stuff was fairly harmless. System: Calcium 400-440 Alk 10.4-11 Nitrates 10-12 Phosphates unknown (I go by coloration but have already ordered a meter) Ammonia/Nitrite zero Any advice would be appreciated.

I've got a hungry pair of Harlequins that haven't eaten for about 2 weeks since I last dropped a CC starfish in the tank for them. Today I dropped a few asterinas in the tank for a snack and they started fighting. The big one ripped the "claw" arm off the small one's body and slashed the other claw arm so bad that it's flapping in the breeze. I never knew they fought this hard over food. Lesson learned - no more small meals for these guys. The small one looks wrecked!

PM sent

Someone once told me that if you see colored spots on the asterina it's from eating corals. Anyone else have an opinion on that?

I got a used tank and have been battling phosphates since the day I got it. Did 20% water changes weekly for a couple months and then finally got phosguard (brand name GFO). Worked great until it worked too great and saw some things suffering. In my tank I have a "canary in the coal mine" that alerts me to low phosphates - a cynarina that shrivels up when phosphates get too low. So now I run phosguard one hour a day during the night cycle and everything is very happy. Also you might want to consider High Capacity GFO. It can absorb twice as much phosphate but at 50% the rate of normal GFO; it's a slower removal like you want. Also a very nice side benefit is that HC GFO won't leech aluminum into your system if left in there too long. Phosguard/GFO can leech aluminum if left in the system after its useful life. reef2reef has a great thread on the topic.

Mine laid some eggs too but I didn't see any hatch. Just stayed on the glass for a week or 2 and didn't do anything.

That's a christata if I'm not mistaken. I have an identical one. It's a gorgeous piece.

That's a christata if I'm not mistaken. I have an identical one. It's a gorgeous piece.

Best pic I could get of the fat side. 8 fully split top heads and (4) 1" heads sprouting from the base that are covered up in this pic. Shows more green hues under various lighting cycles throughout the day (I'm running Pirates of the Caribbean).

Just wanted to say that the 4-head frag I picked up in May is my favorite piece in the tank and now has 11 heads. Amazing pheno.

On the black buckets (RedSea Pro Mix) it says to not mix more than 4 hours. I've also seen charts on BRS youtube videos that show alkalinity dropping off after a day or so. From a reefcentral topic thread: "The basic idea is the salt should be a little higher in the things your tank uses up because you aren't replacing all the water when you do a change. So it has to be over saturated to make up the difference. But water can only hold so much of those elements before they won't stay dissolved, so you want to get it in the tank where it can spread out. " I'm not the most experienced reefer, so I just try and go off the instructions (max 4 hours of mixing).

I would take the MP-40's, PM sent.

Thanks so much for your reply and precious thread recommendation. i have: rock flower nems (5 large) nems (2 large) about 10 frag sized encrusting corals 2 colonies “mad hatter” type 5 sps frags (3”) 10 mushrooms 8 torch/hammer heads in total 10 heads of acans 2” blasto large frag montipora (4”) xenia and cloves 1 large cynarina baselball sized colony orange yuma 200 zoas My tank is packed and I have a problem The reason I dose 2 mL a day is because I don’t want to mess things up and I figure with more frequent water changes I’m replacing most of the lost minerals and nutes. As long as my pH is in the 8.2-8.3 range I figure things are where they need to be. I test for calcium and it’s consistently 420-460 so I don’t want to go any higher. I don’t want to say “price is no object” but when considering $1000 in upgrades vs getting a therapist from dead corals it’s an easy decision. I just want to be as successful as I can be without the tank dominating my life.

I have a 50 gallon cube with 20 gallon sump that's been running on an Apex fusion for 4 months. I change about 5-10 gallons of water a week but the alkalinity usually drops off after a couple days (RedSea pro mix). I usually dose with a 2 part system at 2mL a day that seems to keep things pretty stable, but I want to take it to the next level and start monitoring/dosing for calcium/alkalinity and other nutrients if necessary. I read a few threads on this forum about the Trident being incorporated with the Apex but wanted to get some feedback before I jumped into it. Is the Trident all I need to be able to do this or do I need to get some other accessories as well? Any advice or feedback about the Trident or other equivalent dosing system would be great. Thanks!

I tried to send a PM, have an offer for one if interested.