Jump to content

xltom

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by xltom

  1. I definitely would prefer a 48" fixture. I don't wanna hang lights from the ceiling and I don't use a hood or glass lids.
  2. I saw people here recommending the arctic-t247 lights. Went on the site but I didn't see an option there for a 48" tank. I went on ebay and saw some 48" fixtures for less than a hundy. They have 3 watt high output LEDs in them same as arctic supposedly. I'm not searching for brands right now, I'm trying to figure out how many 3watt leds I need and what to look for in a 48" fixture. I'm assuming you would use 2 T247s on a 75 gallon? That's not in my budget. $150 is around where I'm at. That's cheaper than new bulbs for my old setup.
  3. Hey everyone. I just blew out another ballast in my 48" 6x54watt T5HO by catalina aquariums. I built my tank a long time ago and leds were in the 1k price range back then. Now it seems it would be cheaper to switch over instead of repairing my old t5 setup and paying for bulbs all the time. What would be equivalent to the T5s I'm running now in LEDs? I have a 75 gallon reef. Thanks for any help.
  4. You really should try to find out exactly what kind of heater that was so others here can be warned. I've used stealth heaters a lot and only had one failure. It was only a heater that wouldn't turn on and I suspect the unit was dropped on the floor. It was used to heat up water changes and moved around alot. I can't imagine why any manufacturer would claim a glass encased heater was "shatter-proof". I am a glassblower who uses "shock resistant" boro-silicate(pyrex) exclusively. There is no such thing as shatter-proof glass in my book, and it has no business near other glass objects like the side of your tank. Not to mention the thermal shock of cool water on the outside and hot elements on the inside.... we use crack-off machines in glass fabrication that work just like that and are designed to break glass.
×
×
  • Create New...