Bicyclebill

Welcome back into the hobby! I've definitely learned through the years that it's usually worth spending that little bit more up front to do it right, though it's after not doing it that way that I've come to the conclusion.

Unless you have him on a leash, I'm interested to hear some methods of getting a lightning fast fish out of a reef tank.

I'll take two of the Hammer frags if there are that many

Is it gone?

Sorry for my ignorance, but can a 400w ballast run 250w bulbs?

I've got an Octopus NWB110 that fits just fine in a 10Ga sump I'll sell you. I ran it for a year, but upgraded to a bigger one. After upgrading, I realized that it was doing a great job already on my 60G.

Ditto Reef Safari's comment. I heard from another person that there was an evite of some sort. Do you have to be a paid member to get those?

These are my only lights.

So, looking for opinions. I've got Icecap 660 ballast with (3) 46.5 VHO lights currently. Ready to order pack of (6) bulbs, but wondering if I should take this opportunity to cheaply and easily upgrade to T5. I've not read anything about T5's, but I've noticed VHO's are pretty much old school now. So the question is: 1. Stick with (3) VHO lights 2. Change to (4) T5 48" bulbs and wire up into existing Icecap ballast.

I'll take 5 polyp frag if you've got any left!

I agree on the Strontium/Molybdenum and I also use Iodine. My zoos are growing like crazy.

I've got a single 1" overflow that I used to use on my glass tank I'd give you if you'd use it. Drilled is SOOOO much better; I hated having to deal with air bubbles slowing the flow and eventually losing its prime.

What are you building up? Are you tearing down old, or just adding more tanks?

I agree about drilling an overflow. When I had a glass tank with CPR overflow, I was constantly working to keep the air bubbles out of it. With my acrylic and drilled overlow, I never even think about it. That's not your question though. I'm one of the rare ones (evidently) that has had good luck with Rio pumps (I'd suggest a2100), but I've been running an Ocean Runner 2500 for the last 5 years with zero issues for my return.

I've got a 1 year old octopus NWB110 that's calling out your name! I upgraded to an Aquamaxx 150 on my 65G, but I think the 110 was working pretty close to the same level. Send me a pm if you're interested.

Sweet! Thanks Jennmac! I knew it didnt' need to be crazy complicated

So Kim, what's it take for my pictures to magically appear on screen like yours?

Sweet. Swann, you have an amazing set up btw.

POTM April My pics with 10 character min!

Swann, I've got the BRS unit. I was thinking I could tee into the discharge line to fill my 40g reservoir and also my sump. This should work shouldn't it? I know the water will take the path of least resistance, but at 75gpd my reservoir should fill quick enough after a water change to not affect my sump level don't you think?

So guys, am I being too ultra paranoid and buying into the hype that you need to have quadruple redundancy with fancy this and that to do this? It seems like a simple good quality float valve will do the job, considering the RO system has an additional shutoff valve built in to close off when the pressure backs up enough from the main float valve/

OK, I'm interested to hear what people are using (and would recommend) for auto top off. I'm looking to run my RO direct to my sump. For the last 10 years I've been using a highly modified 2.5G plastic gas can that works remarkably well, but it stll needs to be filled once a week or so.

Chewie, what and where is SWF?

Anyone use a Sea Swirl on their return? Always thought they were crazy expensive, but they're actually cheaper than controllable powerheads. I've seen mixed reviews on lifespan.

I was getting a little worried myself!