Hoss

lol, I suppose so. Sorry if I came across as a bit salty. Still available.

I thought I made it pretty clear that I'm interested in trading it for a lower kelvin fixture, and not selling it for cash. I guess not.

Well, I haven't seen very much interest here, so I probably won't be checking the site frequently. If you see this and want to trade, email me at bhossfield@yahoo.com P.S. sorry to the dude who said he would build one for me. I really just want to trade it.

Still available

Hi all, I have a Maxspect Razor 160w 16k, 27 inch light that would like to trade for the equivalent light in 8k or 10k. The light is in excellent condition, and perfect working order. I still have the mounting legs for it, but I have misplaced the hanging kit. After getting out of the hobby a year ago, I find myself now interested in orchids. I have my Razor hanging in an indoor orchidarium I've constructed, and it works great. The only problem is it's a bit blue, and so I wind up not using the blue channel much. This means I'm basically only using half the light. I can't help but think that it would work better in a lower color temperature. I'm hoping that someone here has an 8k freshwater model that they'd like to trade for my 16k, if not I'd happily trade for a 10k, though I'm really hoping for an 8k . I'd also consider other models of LED lighting that would be suitable for orchids, just as long as they aren't that hideous purple color, and have some sort of dimming function similar to the Razor. If anyone is interested feel free to respond in this thread, or by pm. Thanks, Brian

Thanks for the responses guys. - I don't know what my nitrates are, but when I had it tested at rose city they were slightly elevated, this was about a month ago though, and I wonder if I might have started a mini cycle, or just raised the nitrates a bunch when I removed the sand from my display to my refugium. - I do small (5g) water changes weekly, I know that's not a lot. - I know for a fact that my hydrometer is accurate because I had my salinity checked on a refractometer and it read the same as my hydrometer (imagine that). Looks like the next purchases I make are going to be a nitrate test, mag test, and a new bucket of salt for a major water change. I will start running carbon immediately though. Thanks for all the advice!

Hi all, so I have been having some major tank issues following a rather gigantic Alk swing back in january. About a month ago I removed the sand from my display and my frogspawn and hammer detatched from their skeletons and got brown jelly, and my duncans also succumbed to brown jelly, as well as a colony of acans. My chalices slowly over a couple of weeks detatched from their skeletons and floated away (I removed them, though they never actually "died") I have now kept my parameters stable since Feb 11 or so, but still my candy canes are doing the same slow detatching thing as my chalices, and my platygyra, while it is extending it's feeder tentacles, appears to be starting this same slow process of detaching from the skeleton. It should be noted that even while my chalices were detaching they were showing normal polyp extension and feeding response, as is my candy cane. any ideas? oh also, my zoos and softies are doing great and growing, but my turbo snails have gotten "lazy" and don't seem to be eating as much lately, sometimes they don't appear to move for a couple of days. Here's my stats: First my setup 29 gallon display 10 gallon sump 55 gallon refugium with DSB, chaeto, and some other assorted macros Current Sundial 4x24 watt T5 mag 5 return pump for display oddysea 700 return pump for refugium Koralia 4 circulation pump in display unknown skimmer in sump (works pretty well) Here's what I can test for with the test kits I have alk 10 calcium 420 ph 8 sg 1.025 temp 78 phosphates test at 0 with api phosphate test

Is it in your display tank? If so I'd say you should count your blessings. It looks like Caulerpa Racemosa, or "Grape" Caulerpa. It can be extremely invasive and difficult to remove as it sends little roots into the pores of the rock which can sprout again. It sounds like it went sexual, which they can do spontaneously or due to stress. "Going sexual" means it released it's gametes into your water. This is not such a big deal when you just have a tiny bit of it, but if it has grown into a gigantic mass and suddenly goes sexual it can cause some serious water quality issues, and even possibly crash your tank.

Now THAT is cool!

Well I got my second Salifert test kit, and both Salifert tests read the same. I think my number one problem with the API test is that you're counting drops, and there's no way to guarantee that each drop will be the same volume as the last, and the drops appear to come out easier when the bottle is full vs when it is half empty. Also, if you use the test as directed you only get results in whole numbers. I much prefer the titration style tests that you can read to 2 decimal points.

I bought the API test about a month ago, red sea last weekend, and salifert just arrived in the mail yesterday.

I just tested three alk test kits side by side: API, Red Sea, and Salifert. Here are the results: Red Sea: 8.7 Salifert: 10.9 API: 13.5 So there you have it. Three test kits, three VERY different results, however, only the Salifert test came with a standard of 7.2 to check the test against, and it did indeed check out, meaning that if the standard is ACTUALLY 7.2, then only the salifert kit is testing anywhere close to the actual value. In the interest of accuracy, I tested the red sea with the salifert standard and it was indeed reading about 2 points too low. I would have tested the API as well but I ran out of the standard solution, and besides, I already know that the API test is junk since it already helped me crash my tank(clap) I have a second salifert test coming in the mail, and when it arrives I will test both saliferts side by side to see if they are consistent with each other. Stay tuned.

Found this video by Bulkreefsupply about activated carbon on reefcentral. figured I'd post it here as I found it to be informative:D